Diablo Refresh

To show how to reset the ecu fault codes stored on early models [round obd plug] I have made up my own simple adapter and pics as always

 

I made my adapter with a heat shrink connector , and 3 strands of solder wire, any wire could be used but the I just solder wire as its easy shaped when setting into the OBD pins.

 

Heat shrink connector and solder wire

 

 

Cut 3 strands of wire

 

 

Insert into the connector

 

 

Crimp

 

 

Now carefully heat the end to make it all nice and secure, not really needed but I did it anyway.

 

 

And here is the finished product

 

 

 

 

 

 

to access the OBD socket, we need to remove the rear glove box, on RHD cars its behind the driver, I guess LHD cars is behind the passenegr

 

Lift the carpet back to reveal 2 screws, remove them and the glove box lift straight up first, then out

 

 

The OBD socket has a black circular cap that screws off

 

 

Once off you will see the OBD socket pins, the pins are marked on 2 sides only, but you can count the pins across to the next number to find the pins you need

 

This is how the sequence goes on my car, but please look closely at your own socket and follow the pin pattern.

 

3.2.1

7.6.5.4

11.10.9.8

14.13.12

 

 

"VERY IMPORTANT, MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF" Locate pins 7.9.13 and insert the OBD jumper connector

 

 

When the jumper connect is inserted in the "CORRECT" pins, please DOUBLE check and TRIPLE check they are in fact in the CORRECT pins, inserting into the wrong pins could cause an ECU

malfunction, so please be EXTREMELY careful, "YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK"

 

When you are 100% sure you are in the correct pins, switch the ignition to the ON position, [all light on dash but, dont start car] leave for 10 seconds then switch ignition off, leave for 10 seconds then remove the jumper connector and put the cap back on the OBD socket.

 

ECU is now rest and codes cleared.

 

As always, install your glove box in reverse.

Another job for me over winter will be removing that rusty panel the OBD socket is in, and having it sanded down and painted, or I may make a new.

Hi Sudesh

 

Great thread! I’ve got a 99 SV now but had an early Diablo before which I loved. My SV is as new but we did quite a lot to my '93 Diablo and I hope can help with some info.

 

For the struts I sent of the existing ones to gas strut engineering in Bedford and they made some to the same spec but to a higher pressure with a bleed off valve so you can adjust the pressure as the standard ones can be a little weak. The Murcielago ones can be used apparently but I was told the pressure is a bit too high.

 

For the wheels obviously Mike can split these but I got mine refurbed at www.thepolisher.com who did a great job but I guess you are doing yourself?

 

For the fogs have you considered removing and replacing with mesh it gives it quite a fresh look.

 

For your info we also sourced some bits from http://www.paralleldesigns.co.uk/ as they have made some pattern parts i.e. front indicators.

 

RE the wheel decals this maybe a longshot but I believe Carlo at Topgear cars had a few spares. He won’t sell them but maybe willing to lend one so that it can be copied. If you do get anywhere with this any chance you could let me know and I will add a few to the order! My SV still has them but they would be useful for the future and the ones I got from ebay were no good at all!

 

By the way I lovely car you have there I was tempted by it myself before I bought the SV! Sounded awesome are you keeping the straight through set up?

 

Cheers

sparks

 

Hi Sudesh

 

Great thread! I’ve got a 99 SV now but had an early Diablo before which I loved. My SV is as new but we did quite a lot to my '93 Diablo and I hope can help with some info.

 

For the struts I sent of the existing ones to gas strut engineering in Bedford and they made some to the same spec but to a higher pressure with a bleed off valve so you can adjust the pressure as the standard ones can be a little weak. The Murcielago ones can be used apparently but I was told the pressure is a bit too high.

 

For the wheels obviously Mike can split these but I got mine refurbed at www.thepolisher.com who did a great job but I guess you are doing yourself?

 

For the fogs have you considered removing and replacing with mesh it gives it quite a fresh look.

 

For your info we also sourced some bits from http://www.paralleldesigns.co.uk/ as they have made some pattern parts i.e. front indicators.

 

RE the wheel decals this maybe a longshot but I believe Carlo at Topgear cars had a few spares. He won’t sell them but maybe willing to lend one so that it can be copied. If you do get anywhere with this any chance you could let me know and I will add a few to the order! My SV still has them but they would be useful for the future and the ones I got from ebay were no good at all!

 

By the way I lovely car you have there I was tempted by it myself before I bought the SV! Sounded awesome are you keeping the straight through set up?

 

Cheers

sparks

 

Hi Sparks,

 

Thanks for the reply and welcome to the club!

 

That's sounds like a nice setup on the gas struts, mine are ok at the moment, but I like to order parts and keep them on the shelf for refresh work down the line. I will give those guys a call and progress from there as I really like the idea of the valve system. Thanks for the tip.

 

As for my wheels, the polished parts are virtually brand new, the rears ARE new from memory; Mike upgraded the rears to the wider/deeper dish versions and I really do like them, the only thing I was thinking of doing over winter was having the centers painted, they are fine at the moment and paint isnt damaged or flaked, but would just like to frehen them up. However I still want the SE30 ones. I can get 2 brand new front SE30 wheels ok, but can't find rears, and I know of one gentleman in the UK, that has a full set of SE30 wheels sitting spare, but not sure if he will sell.

 

The fogs I have sorted for now, Im happy enough with the 4 new ones I installed, I have though about the mesh idea you mentioned, seen a few Diablos like that.

 

Didn't parallel designs go bust? And no longer in operation? I would like a set of SE30 side skirts, not sure if they did those? Would nearly consider having my guys make them up.

 

Good call reference Carlo, haven't ever spoke to them, but I know they have a very good reputation, I doubt they know me, so maybe difficult to get even 1 decal lol, I could ask Mike to help though, he knows Carlo well. If I can get one and have them produced, your very welcome to as many as you need.

 

Yeah Im keeping the exhaust as it is, its not completely straight through, still running the cats.

 

I have just received some nice new bits from Lamborghini, so more refresh work to come! I also have the exterior door handles being made in CF at the moment too, then Im doing the door sill plates in CF, just bought some brand new ones from Lamborghini to take moulds from. After that Im going to look into possibly doing the door panels and centre console and loads of other bits.

 

What color is your SV? Any pics?

Please do keep us informed as to the struts. I would like to replace my 99 SV struts with ones that have just a bit more pressure but not too much.

Hi Sudesh

 

Sorry for the hijack but here are pics of mine!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shame if Parallel went as he was always very helpful.

 

I think SE30 wheels and side skirts would set your car off perfectly although the extra wide rears looked good. Let us know how you get on!

 

Cheers

Sparks

All the bits arrived today for my new washer tank to be installed. Was a bit of a long wait as the parts diagram shows that, when you order the tank, it comes complete, however this was not the case. The tank basically comes as a bare carcass, only thing it came with was the lid; the pumps, grommets, washers and internal filter bolt are all separate, and not even listed on the parts diagram. It was thanks to Paulo at Lamborghini London, that I managed to get everything I needed to install the new setup, Paulo spoke to the factory and they gathered up the rest of the bits and sent them out.

 

The old tank as mentioned previously was in a bad state, leaking and the old pump was badly installed using silicone, plus the cap was also damaged.

 

Old tank under the hood

 

 

Its just a slide in and out of a bracket,

 

 

Remove the electerical connectors to the pumps and the connector to the low level warning float

 

 

 

The pipes need to be disconnected too, Make sure to drain your old tank

 

 

Old vs NEW

 

 

Old one has Lamborghini script embossed, but new one doesnt???

 

 

This is the damaged cap on my old tank

 

 

old pump and the missing pump, I had to plug the other hole up as it was badly leaking from the old damaged pump that used to be there

 

 

Im going to re-use the low level warning float, it just twists and pulls straight up

 

 

Remove the rubber seal

 

 

As Im fitting a complete new setup, I didnt need to do this part, but worth seeing if someone ever need to install a new pump.

 

To remove the old pumps correctly, you just turn anti-clockwise,

 

 

Inside the bottle the filter bolt and white washer will come free and you can tip it out the spout.

 

 

If you have a poor water stream coming out, it could be because this filter gets clogged, this one had some build up

 

 

Pump and filter together

 

 

Here is an internal view to show how it works, basically the pump goes through the hole

 

 

And filter bolt screws on to to make it all secure

 

 

 

Now the install of the new items

 

To do this I needed to setup a long reach bar and angled socket end

 

 

All new bits

 

 

the washer comes separate from the bolt, so you must add a tiny bit of glue to stick the 2 together

 

 

insert the new rubber seals

 

 

set the filter bolt into the long reach tool

 

 

and basically you need to hold the tank while guiding the filter bolt to the hole where the pump comes through

 

 

 

bolt in place

 

 

while holding the bolt steady in place, take the pump and screw it in

 

 

Now repeat process for the second pump

 

 

View inside

 

 

And thats basically it! Before putting everything back, put some water in the tank and check for any leaks. Job done

 

 

I can't wait for you to find a solution to the inaccurate fuel level gauge/sensor.

My drivers side [RHD CAR] engine hood cable snapped a few days ago, the cable I guess is the original one and now 20 years old, so I guess was time for renewal, these are the little things that we sometimes forget will need replaced at some point. Thankfully Lamborghini were very smart to put in emergency release backup cables, very handy!!

 

Although just one side snapped, I believe there is no point in replacing just one cable, so I purchased both side from Laamborghini, they are very cheap anyway.

 

I didnt take pics of the removal of the passenger side cable, as it split in 2 at a time where I was away from my garage and driving the car, so I removed it at a friends house so the parts werent dangling around in the engine bay. Butit was very straight forward to remove and with these following photos, you will be able to get a good idea on how to do it.

 

First remove the handle

 

 

 

Small allen key bolt holds it in place

 

 

Ive pulled the handle forward and flipped it, here you can see the 2 cable heads attached to the little slider pin that keeps them in place, you can see the one has even snapped at the handle.

 

 

One of the new cables, comes in black now instead of grey

 

 

To remove the old cables, we need to remove the latch in the engine compartment

 

 

2 allan key bolts and pull the latch out, this is just a little loop in type catch, so its slides out easily

 

 

Completely removed

 

 

Now inside the latch holder, you will see a little metal cable retainer, it has either 2 small bolts or screws in it, these basically screw down and hold the steel wire from the release cable in place, the cable slides through a tiny hole at the rear, and the bolt then goes down to hold it in place. We need to remove the bolt that has the damaged cable running into it, the other bolt is holding the emergency release cable, so just leave that alone.

 

 

When you remove the bolt the cable can be pulled free from, just slide it out from the adjuster bolt which is here, the adjuster bolt is hollow and allows the metal cable to slide through. If your adjuster bolt looks good, you can keep it, or you can replace this too. I choose to replace mine as its a very cheap part and I prefer to do things like this.

 

 

Old and new adjuster bolts, you will notice the old bolt is slightly different, this one cannot be purchased anymore and now you get the Murci one.

 

 

With the cable free you can start removing it completely, as the cable isnt going to be reused, its better to cut it closest to the firewall, as the cable runs down and in behind a panel here, the car will need to be jacked up, wheel removed and wheel well lining removed.

 

This is a pic of the new cable in place, Im just using this to highlite where the cables run into

 

 

This is a view from inside the wheel well, and this panel need to be unbolted to gain access to where the cables come through, 2 bolts hold this in place and easy enough accessed

 

 

With this removed, you can pull the old cable straight out from the handle side

 

Handle and old cable out

 

 

Now you can separate the old cable from the handle, just push the pin out

 

 

Complete separated

 

 

Im glad I decided to do bot as the other cable was starting to fray

 

 

 

 

 

Here comes the tedious fun part lol

 

We need to slide the new cable through the gap in the door jam, this need to go go right up and as far as possible, then from inside the wing I had to stick my arm WAY down inside, right to the back and behind the wire wall panel, there is a little opening in there where the cable was bunching up

 

Cable going in

 

 

And now the akward bit, me searching for the cable. took a few tries but eventually got hold of it

 

 

You can just about see the new cable coming through, and Ive basically pushed it on up behind the silver panel I unbolted

 

 

New cable out! Start feeding it back into the same place where the old one was, it this case, this side runs inside the long silver panel below the glass, then out the other side

 

 

just keep putting the cable back from where you removed it,

 

 

Now feed second cable through and basically repeat the same process but obviously the cable will go the other side

 

 

 

Now take the handle and feed the cable ends back in , left cable for left side latch, right cable for right side latch

 

 

 

then at the latch side feed the new wire through the adjuster screws,

 

 

As I added new adjuster screws I had to obviously bolt them back up, but if you decided to re-use your old ones, its just a case of sliding the cable back in

 

 

put the wire back into the retainer,

 

 

and pull the wire as far forward as possible, you should see and hear the release handle pulling forward, set the handle back into its slot and tighten it up

 

 

Pretty much job done, refit the catch and if you need too, make your adjustments at the adjuster screws until you feel the handle is nice and tight, and the catch is releasing nicely.

 

 

My 93 car didnt come with the throttle body covers, and I quite like the look, so decided to purchase the setup and see if they fit.

 

Pretty much straight forward and I just had to make 1 modification.

 

 

First remove the 2 top bolts

 

 

fit the brackets

 

 

Covers fitted

 

 

I made 1 modification here, as this pipe was too near the cover and being bent slightly, I drilled out a hole and feed the pipe through, alls good now!

 

 

 

 

I purchased the rear SV/Roadster lower grill and upper brackets

 

 

Here are the bolt locations

 

 

Up behind the bumper where it meets the frame, there were 3 bolts, one to the left just above that exhaust pipe, one in the middle and one to the right above the other exhaust pipe

 

 

 

Take the 2 brackets [number 1 and 2 in the pic] and fit them at the bolt above the exhausts, then take the main grill [number 3] and slide it up to the center bolt, its all pretty much self explanatory when you look at the line of the bumper and the grill. The grill also bolts to the exhaust brackets with 4 screws

 

 

Now on my bumper, there were 2 holes at the side that matched up perfect, with the holes on the grill, so I just added my own nuts/bolts/washers here

 

 

As this particular grill wasnt designed for early cars, there are 2 lower bolt holes that have nothing to attach too

 

 

I havent done anything with these lower lower mounting holes yet, as the grill is so strong and firmly secured, I dont really need to use them, but I might weld some special nuts on there which means I can screw up to them. But overall Im very pleased with the result.

 

I can't wait for you to find a solution to the inaccurate fuel level gauge/sensor.

 

Hi,

 

I haven't had this issue myself yet, when I initially purchased the car, I though it did have it, but after filling it up a few times, the ague seem to be fairly accurate, although I don't let it get too low.

 

I have read about it being a common problem though, and heard its a bit of a nusence job too, possibly a tank out service??

Hi,

 

I haven't had this issue myself yet, when I initially purchased the car, I though it did have it, but after filling it up a few times, the ague seem to be fairly accurate, although I don't let it get too low.

 

I have read about it being a common problem though, and heard its a bit of a nusence job too, possibly a tank out service??

 

While I was in there, I decided to fit a new high capacity battery. The one in my car was only 600cca, so I found 780cca battery with 5 year warranty. The initial turnover of the car is noticable and Im very pleased I don't this sooner than later.

 

Hi,

 

I haven't had this issue myself yet, when I initially purchased the car, I though it did have it, but after filling it up a few times, the ague seem to be fairly accurate, although I don't let it get too low.

 

I have read about it being a common problem though, and heard its a bit of a nusence job too, possibly a tank out service??

http://www.another board/vbforum/f4...el-level-23789/

<a href="http://www.another board/vbforum/f45/sticking-fuel-level-23789/" target="_blank">http://www.another board/vbforum/f4...el-level-23789/</a>

In the link, replace another board with lamborghini talk

Hi,

 

An interesting read, and sounds [to me] like a straight forward enough job to replace the fuel/sensor that goes inside the tank, certainly on early cars anyway. But allot of various answer and solutions. Easiest is defiantly checking for corrosion, cleaning down any build up and even running a new ground wire. I could do a write up and photos on how to do this no problem if anyone needed it.

 

My gauge reads fairly ok, only time I see inaccurate reading is possibly on a down/up hill surface, also if cornering quite hard, the gauge will move but comes back again ok to a good reading, this would indicate the flot is moving a bit too much.

 

Im not sure of a cost of new float/sensor over here, but if its not too expensive I would be willing to purchase a new one and show how to install, then see how the gauge reads.

 

Finding a better aftermarket sensor that fits the tank, without modifications, could be simple enough, there are many universal senders, would just be a case of searching around for something that's a good fit, right depth and running the tests.

Couldnt resist lol, so had a look at where the sender unit is, just under the coolant tank.

 

It would seem that my car has had the earth bypass already installed, but Im not liking the build up of surface rust at this location, so Ill be cleaning that down

 

 

This is the OEM earth wire from the wiring loom

 

 

Fuel sensor look like a standard enough 5 bolt setup, I remove the farthest plug as I could see some oxidization on the pin, This will need cleaned down to fresh metal again

 

 

Other end of the aftermarket earth wire

 

 

I think Ill remove the other plug you can see in the pic, and check for oxidization on there too, Ill give all the surfaces a rub down and add some dielectric grease.

 

If anyone has an old sender unit, would it be possible to take some pics and measure the head size and bolt distance between each other?? I will shop around for a universal type and do some testing of different units, maybe get lucky and find a great alternative for owners.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I'll be waiting with baited breath on this. I have a new sender unit installed and the problem is exactly the same as with the old one. Tested the gauge and it's working fine. The problem is not there.

I'll take photos of my old sender unit in the morning.

I'll be waiting with baited breath on this. I have a new sender unit installed and the problem is exactly the same as with the old one. Tested the gauge and it's working fine. The problem is not there.

I'll take photos of my old sender unit in the morning.

 

So maybe the sender units are just poor at doing the job right?

 

What symptoms is your setup showing? Just very inaccurate readings?

 

Yes please send some pics of the one you removed, is it possible for you to take measurements of the sender? Diameter of the head and length of the stem etc?

 

 

 

I'll be waiting with baited breath on this. I have a new sender unit installed and the problem is exactly the same as with the old one. Tested the gauge and it's working fine. The problem is not there.

I'll take photos of my old sender unit in the morning.

 

Sorry forgot to ask, could you also check the bottom of the sender, does it have 2 holes?

Diameter - 70mm

Distance between screw holes - 32mm

Stem length without lid - 317mm

Stem length plus lid - 330mm