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PoKnow

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  1. Been 6 years. My battery is toast (measured 500CCA)... and now it's time to get the correct battery in there so I don't have to strap it down anymore. BCI Group 48 (H6) works great for 02/03! Way easier to find than BCI Group 91 and WAY more choices. Hope this thread continues to help people.
  2. Nick, What do the R-GT/GT1 headers look like? Times have changed. Maybe time to try again?
  3. Air bag ON/OFF passenger side of dash.
  4. https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C1flRuT2ibS.pdf Great guide. Look up U5074. Shows cross reference for other parts manufacturers. Plus shows OE part numbers.
  5. I'm happy that more information like this is coming out for our cars. The more this information is shared and in the open...the better it is for the community.
  6. It's the starter... no need to think about it. Everyone is going to have this problem there is no avoiding it. Time to kill the red herring. Blaming MEDS, connectivity, weak battery. All have LITTLE to do with the problem. Replace your battery.... clean your terminals... it starts "better"... but still not the same as it once was before. All waste of time. Progression is as follows: Year 1. Hmm... car didn't start the first time... that was weird... maybe I didn't disengage the immobilizer. Year 2. Hmm... car isn't firing up with the ferocity it did back in the day... maybe the battery is weak or it's my wiring/terminals Year 3. Hmm... cold starts are now 1K RPM then it climbs from there not sounding normal... maybe it's a combination of all the above Year 4. Wait a minute... maybe it is the starter... I'm having to turn the key 2+ times to get it to turn over Year 5. Yeah it's the starter... damn it should have just fixed the starter to begin with and not waste years dealing with this problem... Don't waste time... fix the starter.
  7. Don't know why LP doesn't let you edit your posts anymore... tons of typo's in my earlier posts that I'd like to fix. Most important is that my solenoid is a ZM1975 not a ZF. Challenges getting the starter installed. 1. Gluing/adhering the washer to the top starter hole. Use strong stuff as you'll be slipping and sliding this thing in and out to get the bottom washer/nut installed. It WILL get knocked off. 2. I ended up using a magnet attachment on my camera to get the top washer back ON the bolt... was a crazy hard carnival game but less difficult than trying to redo the bottom bolt (which sucked... see below) 3. Bottom bolt is extremely cramped for my hands as I DID NOT remove the oil line... I would say this is the ONE and ONLY true downside of not removing that line. You end up having to use your left hand to balance/finesse the heavy starter, while your right hand is barely on the nut and washer, as you're trying to thread it back on (both of which are trying their hardest to fly out of your grasp) It was painful enough that I elected to play the carnival game in step 2 vs taking the starter off and re-gluing the washer. 4. Top bolt... I ended up using the camera... I lucked out and with little effort the camera was looking at the bolt and my moving about to get myself and my tools in position did not jostle the view much. In my opinion the camera is ultimately optional but nice to have. I believe with some patience I could have gotten the nut back on by feel alone That's it... only 4... going on was much easier than going off. Everything else is pretty normal. I'll revisit this again in 10-15 years.
  8. Challenges getting it the starter removed. 1. The older your car the more likely the 2 nuts holding the starter down are seized 2. It took a substantial amount of torque to break these nuts 3. I would recommend minimum 10 inch 17mm/19mm wrench for the bottom nut 4. Top nut removal does NOT need camera I was able to repeatedly get my socket over the nut by feel alone 5. I tried removing the top nut with a breaker bar and the cavity did not lend itself to enough swing AND stability to break the nut (your experience maybe different depending on how seized the nut is) 6. I ended up using several swivels linked together plus another extension to get a 1/2 inch drive outside the cavity and THEN used my breaker bar... this worked for me. Final tip... don't bother using impact tools on the top nut if you have a million extensions linked up together. Torque loss through the chain will make this method a complete waste of time. Just get that extension with swivels snaked out of the cavity and go nuts with a breaker bar.
  9. As far as I am aware... this is a Lambo specific starter. I have been unable to find any other vehicle associated with ANY of the part numbers above. Prices range from $700-2000. I had my local starter/altenator rebuilder work on my starter. He identified two issues for around $150. 1. Solenoid failing 2. Bearing dry and needed lubrication He replaced my solenoid with the following part number ZF1975 Which has these as cross referenced numbers. 1319265 KHD 1011866 POWERMAX 1319265 KHD 137276 CARGO 227139 ERA 333141 CARGO 60-15-6646 WILSON 66-9189 WAI / TRANSPO 66-9189-1 WAI / TRANSPO 6660-2111 DIXIE 81011866 POWERMAX 9330331010 BOSCH 9330331510 BOSCH 9.40113E+11 MAGNETI MARELLI AME0418 MAGNETI MARELLI CSO10163 CASCO SND11020 WOODAUTO SSO10163 SANDO UD14446SS(ZM) AS-PL ZM1975 ZM Quick google showed that these solenoids are PLENTIFUL and around $20-30. With all this information I hope the community will be now more informed and understand that this is not some boogie man but rather CHEAP and completely DIYable.
  10. I'd like to thank everyone for their guidance in this thread. I'll post my comments on how to remove this thing and get it installed after the job is complete. I have it out... about it put it back in. I would however like to quash some misinformation. This is the part number of the starter and all it's details. I have done substantial research and am pretty darn confident this information is accurate. Item Name Starter Part Brand BOSCH OEM Numbers 016 016 104 / 07M 911 023 square jaw opening [degree] 340 ° Pinion Rest Position [mm] 21 mm Rotation Direction Anti-clockwise rotation Flange ⌀ [mm] 82.5 mm square mounting hole [degree] 20 ° Connecting Angle [Degree] 20 ° Position / Degree links ° Length [mm] 285 mm Clamp 30,50 Rated Voltage [V] 12 V Number of Teeth 9 Number of Thread Bores 0 Number of mounting bores 2 Bore ⌀ 2 [mm] 13.5 mm Rated Power [kW] 2.3 kW Bore ⌀ [mm] 13.5 mm Starter Type Self-supporting Supersedes 0 001 218 170 Cross reference and OE number list Manufacturer Part number AD KÜHNER 255225B AUTOTEAM SBO492 BOSCH 0 001 218 770 BOSCH EV (L) 12V 2,3 kW BV PSH 300.923.092.210 CASCO CST10492GS EAA EAA-121028 EAA EAA-121045 EAA EAA-121086 EAA EAA-121087 EAA EAA-121131 EAA EAA-121158 EAA EAA-121159 EAA EAA-121190 EAA EAA-121223 EAA EAA-121231 EAA EAA-121283 EAA EAA-121298 EAA EAA-121336 EAA EAA-121341 EAA EAA-121362 EAA EAA-121367 EAA EAA-121397 EAA EAA-121435 EAA EAA-121497 EAA EAA-121579 EAA EAA-121919 EAA EAA-121997 EAA EAA-122464 EAA EAA-122465 EAA EAA-122466 EAA EAA-122467 EAA EAA-122468 EAA EAA-122469 EAA EAA-122470 EAA EAA-122471 EAA EAA-122472 EAA EAA-122473 EAA EAA-122474 EAA EAA-122475 EAA EAA-122476 EAA EAA-122477 EAA EAA-122478 EAA EAA-122479 EAA EAA-122480 EAA EAA-122481 EAA EAA-122482 EAA EAA-141019 FARCOM 106249 VW 016 016 104 VW 07M 911 023
  11. Metal button sticks to the glass. Rotate it and the mount will come right off leaving the button behind.
  12. Side note: Thanks to your research. When it is my turn to service my starter. I'll definitely consider adding permanent pair of wires to the red and silver bolts along with a quick disconnect end; hidden, protected, and easily accessible. Store the remote starter in the car so that I can attempt to turn the engine over worst case, bypassing all the intermediate electronics from the battery to the red 12v.
  13. Congrats! I've been following this thread because my starter is about to go. Same type of symptoms. Really appreciate the detailed pictures and progress updates. Really helps me understand the details of the system for troubleshooting purposes. Sounds like the solenoid was definitely not engaging fully (red 12v was enough to engage but not enough to fully engage the solenoid). Likely clutch crud hindering that engagement. I don't believe you have a problem with the red 12v. I suspect that when you put direct +12v from the silver bolt to the red 12v. The solenoid got full power and amperage, therefore, was able to knock the crud loose and fully engage. Subsequent key starts are successful as the solenoid can now move more freely. My next steps would be to remove and rebuild the starter OR if i'm feeling lazy... Use the remote starter 3-4 more times to knock more crud out of there and honestly you'd probably be fine for a while. Although I'd be paranoid I'd get stuck somewhere other than the house.
  14. How the starter works: 1. Red gets +12v 2. Solenoid plunges the starter gear down engage with the fly wheel 3. Solenoid at full extension closes the circuit to send Silver bolt's +12v power down the black bolt into the starter motor 4. Starter motor spins and in turn spins the fly wheel Using the remote starter: 1. If you pull the trigger and you hear the same sound, loud click, as you turning the key. Solenoid is extended but power from red +12v is not going down the black bolt. My money is solenoid not fully engaging. 2. If you pull the trigger and the starter turns the engine over. Your ignition, red 12v, is not providing enough voltage to get the solenoid to fully engage. If #1 is the problem. Maybe you can connect the trigger to silver and black bolt (assuming black bolt is not coated with something and conductive). Turn the key to engage the solenoid (hopefully engaged enough to mesh with fly wheel). Then hit the trigger to activate the starter motor. Just spit balling here on this last idea. Think this one through lol.
  15. " Those two are so close, hard to get a grip on the screw /red wire alone. It seems that connection of red wire & silver bolt ignited the solenoid with the loud click. " Sounds like your starter is bad. After the solenoid engages the starter motor should have started cranking. Echoing V12noise. Try bridging those two again perhaps with a "starter tester trigger" from autozone so it's not as freaky. The starter motor should turn the engine over.
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