nero

I know the part number which is listed in the thread opener but I'm asking for first hand proof of specific models working in specific cars. PS Econ button on Gallardo is labeled Setup on Audi. Knobs are different but can be pulled off and switched with the Gallardo knobs. Side trim on Audi front piece needs to be trimmed down on the left and right to fit properly (this is what Lamborghini did... it's not really a different part). Audi has a rear defrost label on the bottom center button. On the G, that's recirculate. Audi has recirculate label on the center button but on the G it's a blank. There are different models of the Audi with/out seat heat with/out L and R seat ventilation. G's don't have seat ventilation. Anyway, it's possible that some combinations of the G year and Audi part do not work (without reprogramming the unit and that may be a lost art...). I don't know for sure though even though I've replaced a bunch of these. I'd like to know if say, 04/05 works with the later year units.

Do all of the Climate Control Units from the A8 (4E0820043A,B,C,D,E,G) work in the Gallardo? Can you list the model that you used and the year of your Gallardo? Is a reset process required using the Lamborghini computer or a Leonardo?

No offense but you can buy these today at Tire Rack for ~$3084. Granted the stock levels fluctuate but they have the black ones at the moment.

Supposedly there was a TSB (or equivalent) but I think it was one of those "If you have the rear left quarter panel off, replace bla bla line, otherwise leave it alone." The repair shop had called about something else and the factory said to replace the line while they were in there b/c it was known to separate (don't know the exact details). I don't think I have a picture of it but I'll check when I get the chance. It was unnerving that something like that wasn't taken care of under warranty. Who knows, maybe it was supposed to be but to be honest, my auth dealer was terrible.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like the fire is right on the oil line that was known to decay, leak, and catch fire. Mine was replaced. It's not in an easy to get to location.

Wow, it's amazing how hard it is to capture Rosso Andromeda on camera. It's one of those colors that must be seen in person. I've only seen a Spyder which was an 07 I think. Loved it. I think it would be a nice color for the 570.

Well, I said royal purple b/c you said it felt like oil but I agree with the others that it looks like coolant. Maybe they mixed VW G type coolant (pink) with Mercedes (blue) and it comes out looking purple. Anyway, that would explain the evaporation and the color. Arg, I just looked up G12+ and apparently it is purple. I've never seen it though. I have the pink kind. In any case, as I said before don't bother just tightening the clamps. Change the tubes and clamps with better ones. I tightened mine twice over the course of a month only to determine that the tubes were too stretched out just outside of the metal pipe and the rubber against the pipe where the clamp sits had degraded enough not to keep a seal. Now that may not be the case with you but you'll be kicking yourself if it leaks after tightening. So can anyone answer my question about the smaller tubes that connect to the overflow tank? Has anyone replaced those? One of them connects to a metal pipe that is higher than the fuel line between the two tanks and is run doen the right side of the car, across to the center under the firewall and then out to the metal pipe (I think). The other one connects to the metal coolant connecter (the one that straddles the LR banks) but I'm not sure of an easy way to get to it... I'm wondering how much needs to come off to get there.

That looks like royal purple to me... front engine seal maybe? That's common. I think it's also common to come from a cracked housing under the filter. As for the evaporated parts... I hope it isn't mixing with coolant.

Coolant is sweet. If it doesn't freeze, it must be coolant! Engine Oil is black brown. Diff fluid is black/brown and stinks. Clutch fluid is darker red and stinks even worse than Diff fluid Windshield washer fluid is whatever color you put in and this can leak into the bottom plastic pan and come out pretty much anywhere at the front - usually a tube works itself lose or the pump breaks. Brake fluid is whatever color you put in. If that's leaking you'll have really bad brake fading or none at all! If you have a leak, I recommend having the lines replaced along with the clamps. You can get away with tightening the clamps for a bit but chances are that the line is bulging just before the ridge in the metal pipe and that is what causes it to seep past the clamp. May as well replace them. The ones in the center of the car can drip onto the drive shaft and potentially come out at the front of the car. If it rained or the car was washed, water can run along the side panels and come out near the front wheel wells. PS I have yet to replace the small lines on that connect to the overflow tank. Does anyone know the best way to replace these without taking a ton of stuff out? I'm leaning towards using heat taped reinforced lines instead of braided steel or braided nylon. The stock lines are not reinforced, are thin, and they rely on the braided (nylon I think) for the pressure resistance which is why they don't seem to last long. The larger ones in the center bottom of the car are easy to change if you simply cut the old ones laterally and pull them off. Old rubber tends to be very hard and won't slide off of the metal tubing easily. The heat braid can be reused.

CS Tutella is clear but my fluid was red and as far as I can tell, always was. I don't know what was put in (by 2 authorized dealers) but thanks for the heads up. I will probably not use CS Tutella though. I believe it is at least twice as expensive and has no benefit over other compatible fluid.

Anyone know where all of the lines go from the coolant tank? How about replacement... what type of hoses should be used? The stock ones appear to be brittle over time - especially after the tank is moved about.

Did you resolve the issue? I forgot to mention that the e-gear fluid is red and stinks something fierce.

I can't tell by your picture but I think this is the beginning of the egear line failure... the 06 egear lines were known to be mounted at too high of an angle causing the line to fail prematurely. What may be a leak right could lead to a blow out with oil spewing everywhere. If you look at the connection point, it should be pretty clear if one or more of them are breaking. If this is the cause, just replace (or have replaced) all of the lines... chances are if one is going, the others are on their way out. I think they are an overpriced $550 per line. Also, if this is the case, make sure the actuator is still in good condition. That's like a 20k parts b/c they don't sell just that part anymore.

Is there an alternate source for the Active Carbon Filter or is there another filter that is equivalent from another car that could be used? The original is quite expensive: Part #400133563 aka Reservoir Acc. Compl. or Vapor Filter ~$450.00

It is most likely the pump and not the fuse. Have someone listen as close to the reservoir as possible. If you don't hear a high pitched whine, the pump is most likely broken. They are cheap though ($20) and you can replace it with a VW part number. I believe the factory will only sell the entire assembly for over $350 but all you need is the rear pump. Changing it isn't too hard but can be a bit of a pain the first time b/c you'll have to determine which hoses and brackets to disconnect. It will be a piece of cake for a mechanic but maybe a little frustrating if you aren't used to working on this type of thing.