Home light switches, which is best for me

So many choices right now. I need help in getting some light switches automated. We just purchased a house built in 2003. 5600 sq ft with lots of 3 and 4 way switches. I know 3 and 4 way switching is a deal breaker for some of these wifi light switches. Can anyone share some advise or experiences? Thanks a bunch!!

So many choices right now. I need help in getting some light switches automated. We just purchased a house built in 2003. 5600 sq ft with lots of 3 and 4 way switches. I know 3 and 4 way switching is a deal breaker for some of these wifi light switches. Can anyone share some advise or experiences? Thanks a bunch!!

 

This is all super simple. Here is what I have setup and it's very easy to work with.

 

Samsung Smart thing hub.

Standard Switches: Leviton DZ15S-1BZ

For the 3/4 way setups, you just need a 'coordinating' switch'. Also, if you want a dimmer on a multi-way, you only need 1 dimmer switch. Much less expensive than the regular switches and you can control switch sets that aren't wired together. For instance, my wrap around porch has two sections that are on two completely different wiring circuits. With these switches any switch I push controls them all.

 

The cool thing is you can use other sensing devices like a Ring doorbell to turn on porch lights, or act as a motion sensor. Lots of cool shit can be done pretty easily, once you stomach $40 switches.

 

Biggest thing when buying the switches is obviously make sure they are rated for the load. If you are controlling fans you need a dedicated fan switch. Wiring a dimmer to a fan thinking it will control speed will fubar everything.

 

 

Emanon,

 

Thanks a bunch !!! I will look into this.

This is all super simple. Here is what I have setup and it's very easy to work with.

 

Samsung Smart thing hub.

Standard Switches: Leviton DZ15S-1BZ

For the 3/4 way setups, you just need a 'coordinating' switch'. Also, if you want a dimmer on a multi-way, you only need 1 dimmer switch. Much less expensive than the regular switches and you can control switch sets that aren't wired together. For instance, my wrap around porch has two sections that are on two completely different wiring circuits. With these switches any switch I push controls them all.

 

The cool thing is you can use other sensing devices like a Ring doorbell to turn on porch lights, or act as a motion sensor. Lots of cool shit can be done pretty easily, once you stomach $40 switches.

 

Biggest thing when buying the switches is obviously make sure they are rated for the load. If you are controlling fans you need a dedicated fan switch. Wiring a dimmer to a fan thinking it will control speed will fubar everything.

 

Is it possible to get smart switches that still use the old style toggles for the manual switches, or are they all the more modern flat rocker type?

Any thoughts on the Lutron Caseda system. Not sure if my house has a neutral and this system dos not need you to have a neutral.

Is it possible to get smart switches that still use the old style toggles for the manual switches, or are they all the more modern flat rocker type?

 

GE sells some.

Any thoughts on the Lutron Caseda system. Not sure if my house has a neutral and this system dos not need you to have a neutral.

 

What year was your house built?

 

I don't have any personal experience with that setup, but I hear they work well, though you also have to buy the lutron bridge to get them to work with other smarthome devices (smart things, etc).

House was built in 2003. Thanks.

House was built in 2003. Thanks.

 

100% you have a neutral wire. If you remove the cover plate you'll see a white wire, possibly several all twisted together with a single wire nut. That is the neutral wire.

Any thoughts on the Lutron Caseda system. Not sure if my house has a neutral and this system dos not need you to have a neutral.

 

Not sure how you would have a non 3 phase, residential service without a neutral?

 

Even for 3 phase systems, only a pure delta would not have a neutral. All wye systems and high leg deltas are grounded and thus have neutrals. A pure delta would typically exist in industrial applications.

 

Only time a neutral isn't wired is for 2 pole line-to-line (like for a dryer or large wall unit A/C) and 3 pole (3 phase) loads. A neutral wire is included in the wiring for a dryer, but it is there to serve the 120 volt electronics, not the dryer motor.

 

Both single pole and two pole breakers are two wire circuits. The difference is that a neutral is not switched, hence you only need to interrupt one conductor not two for a single pole breaker.

 

Hope that helps.

 

100% you have a neutral wire. If you remove the cover plate you'll see a white wire, possibly several all twisted together with a single wire nut. That is the neutral wire.

 

 

I'm still curious why fmari was told what he was told.

 

I'm still curious why fmari was told what he was told.

 

I can only wonder. Maybe someone confused neutral with ground? Some older homes here (built pre 1950's) have 2 wire with a grounding sheeth and metal boxes.

 

Even most 'handy' guys understand very little about electricity and basic household wiring so it doesn't surprise me. I just bought a 1000v insulated Wiha screwdriver, upping my electrical game at least 50%.

GE sells some.

 

Thanks!

Thanks!

 

 

 

More info on the smart hub thing

The no neutral thing is simple. He doesn't mean at his main service, depending on how they wired the switch there might only be a 2 wire in the box. Some smart switches and sensors need neutrals to work. The white sometimes is taped black and used as a switch leg. They changed the rules and now you need a neutral in every switch box, including 3 ways. Before you could bring your feed and switch leg into one box, and send a 3 wire to the other box and tape the white black and use it as a point or traveler in the 3 way. And I've found the new wink hub 2 better than smart things, but they each havr their ups and downs.

More info on the smart hub thing

 

It's ridiculously simple. Plug the hub onto your router and setup an account (free, no recurring charges). Then dowmload the app to any/all devices yoy want.

 

When you add accessories, you pair them similar to pairing your phone via bluetooth in the car, but it stays constantly connected. You can then rename the accessory (switch, outlet, doorbell, etc) so you know what or where it is. Porch lights, landscape, Romans Dungeon, etc.

 

From there you can operatre the switch remotely from your phone, computer etc. Or you can give it simple automations. They can be as simple or complex as you lile. The simple side is selecting things from a (pretty elaborate) options menu. Odds are you will never need to go beyond the standard list.

 

For instance: My porch lights come on 30min before dusk and stay on until 1am. Since i have 7 wall sconces with 100w equivelent LED bulbs, full brightness is damn near daylight. So i have them kick on at 50% dimmer level.

 

But, i have a ring pro doorbell. If anyone walks with the pretty nutty range of it and trips the motion sensor, the porch lights go to 100%. If its anytime after the standard 1am cutoff, they still come on at 100%, and shut off 10 minutes after the last motion sensor activity. During daylight hours they are off and nothing happens.

 

Want some specific lights to kick on anytime you arrive home? Super easy.

Tie multiple non-connected circuits together? Super easy.

Dim all the lights in a room to 20% when you're watching a movie? Simple press of a single button.

Have a schlage connect door lock? Now you can lock or unlock it from anywhere your phone has service. And tell it to turn on lights when you unlock the door.

 

Each one of those thongs takes about 30 seconds to program via dropsown menus. Its IFTTT, If this then that.

It all interfaces with alexa as well if you want it to.