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Swif

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About Swif

  • Birthday 03/02/1978

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  1. I recall having to take out the front tube to get to those. I only replaced a few of these lines. that was years ago so my memory is foggy. Glad you get it handled and saved some cash.
  2. What are the exact fault codes does your car have? LOC exhaust on 04-05 never created a fault with O2 sensors. 06 and up cars would have a fault due to misfire sensor changing and the ability to pick up the increased exhaust flow causing a false fault. The solution was to have another version of LOC exhaust that kept the exhaust flaps with a modification to them. Its possible the straight pipes you have are causing the O2 faults as the front to rear sensor is not seeing a difference in O2 reading like they do with a CAT. This is when the adapter comes in play I believe. The adapter causes the O2 sensor to not set as deep in the exhaust flow tricking its O2 reading. I belive these are installed for the rear sensors. (not 100% sure as I have never installed them or fully researched this mod).
  3. Runs down the center valley then splits to the each shock, comes from engine bay. 20 hours is a lot. If a tech is saying 10-12, then that seems like 20 is the CP time and 10-12 is warrenty time. If I recall the pain was connecting to the shocks and disconnecting the claps around one of the fuel tanks. Isn't this hose part of the lifting system/steering TSB?
  4. I think it was something around 4 hours.
  5. If you are talking about the bleed screws for the actuator, then yes. There are 3 bleed screws. When bleeding you will open 2 and 1/2 turns to bleed. If I recall correctly you open one at a time, bleed, close and move onto the next bleeder.
  6. I believe you need to remove the clutter so you can change the bezel out. There should be 2 allen bolts that can be seen from the inside of the bezel on the top and think 2 more mounting bolts on the bottom that are accessed once the cluster is removed. I need to have one in front of me to be sure.
  7. Not sure about discretion on line or not. I may have posted something on this forum about years ago. The drier is located in left rear wheel well, (front side). The FOT is located inside the cabin, passenger side of center conceal. (by shifter). At times the drier can be saved is not debris and placed under vacuum for about a hour or so. The for many times can be saved by removing it and cleaning.
  8. Spray electrical cleaning on a rag then wiper down.
  9. When you hear the noise are you driving over bumps in the road? Doe you hear the noise every time you pull in and out of a drive way? I ask as 04-05 G and a few 06's had a campaign on the control arm clicking. Usually started out on the from and made its way to the rear control arms. The next thing it could be is your car still base the plastic sway arm bushings. These were upgraded to rubber. You also can have a loose hydraulic line that feeds the ps rack. This line runs down the center of the car. Do you hear the noise coming from the dash area on center of the car? I ask again as sound in these cars travel a lot. I had a G making noise only when cold. After monitoring the car on cold start test drives with chase ears, I found that the oil feed line to the oil pump was touching the engine mount bracket. The sound at first sounded like it was coming from the front of the car.
  10. It is the same compressor that VW and Audi us. Take the part number from the compressor and you should be able to pick up at a dealer. If any one needs a compressor send me a PM and I'll see if I can get you a decent price on it.
  11. It is the same compressor that VW and Audi us. Take the part number from the compressor and you should be able to pick up at a dealer. If any one needs a compressor send me a PM and I'll see if I can get you a decent price on it.
  12. Did the comp have a leak or did it seize up? Did you replace the dry and check to see if the FOT had debris in it? Many time on the early G 04-06 the compressor would seize up get metal in the drier and the FOT. If this is not taken care of you will not have a proper working A/C system and can risk damaging the replacement.
  13. Gave him a lot of information and how to check the faults that he was listing. Emailed him as well to try and give him the best infor I could give him.
  14. To see if the master is bad make sure all air is out of the system. Then place pressure on the brake pedal and see if it starts to fall. If I remember you will also find that there is a small hose around the Master that can bee pinched. make sure the hose is not pinched.
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