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Resurrecting Jalpa #359


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Thanks I will look for it. I cut the teeth into my balancer using a trigger wheel picture off the internet . Printed it to the correct size got out the compass ,cut out the center and glued it to the pulley side of the balancer. Worked perfect as a patteren. I will post a pic later . I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to make all the cuts and have a mill bit ordered to finish off. It took about 2 hours to cut all the teeth. You can get it done CNC also but pretty pricey. I have a Smithymill lathe but it is not real accurate thus the need to hand cut the slots first then mill them out. There is no good way to attach a wheel to the balancer. My original trigger wheel came loose after a couple of 8000rpm runs. This should be bulletproof. Lee

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Thanks I will look for it. I cut the teeth into my balancer using a trigger wheel picture off the internet . Printed it to the correct size got out the compass ,cut out the center and glued it to the pulley side of the balancer. Worked perfect as a patteren. I will post a pic later . I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to make all the cuts and have a mill bit ordered to finish off. It took about 2 hours to cut all the teeth. You can get it done CNC also but pretty pricey. I have a Smithymill lathe but it is not real accurate thus the need to hand cut the slots first then mill them out. There is no good way to attach a wheel to the balancer. My original trigger wheel came loose after a couple of 8000rpm runs. This should be bulletproof. Lee

Here is the pic Man I must be stupid Where is the upload button

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Here is the pic Man I must be stupid Where is the upload button

 

If you go to reply then click "Choose file" then "upload" you'll have a "manage attachments" on the left, you can click it and it should insert it into your message.

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Something is wrong. I browse, select the pic and then push the upload button. After that the file shows up in the browse window but never uploads. I tried multiple times. Is there another way to upload. Lee

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Lets try This. That is my head look at the valve size.They were substantially larger than stock . I am going to try the balancer one more time.

DSC02320.JPG

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Jalpa_Balancer_Pic_2.JPGI had to crop the pic . It showed to be a 1.6 mb file but would not take it . Finally

 

That is a very interesting and awesome way to do it. How is the pickup so far, dead on accurate?

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It should be perfect . All of them are exactly spaced. Laust on the other forum has been running his that way with good results. I am waiting on my 3/16 end mill to finish up the slots. Are you going to turbo yours? If you do I found stainless head studs from ARP that fit perfect. They are the ones for the dodge turbo diesel. They will handle way more torque than stock. The lambo studs are pretty weak. Blown head gaskets are quite common. Lee

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It should be perfect . All of them are exactly spaced. Laust on the other forum has been running his that way with good results. I am waiting on my 3/16 end mill to finish up the slots. Are you going to turbo yours? If you do I found stainless head studs from ARP that fit perfect. They are the ones for the dodge turbo diesel. They will handle way more torque than stock. The lambo studs are pretty weak. Blown head gaskets are quite common. Lee

 

Most certainly not going to turbo mine. I wanted to do as much as I could with the NA functionality and have an N/A car with ITBs. The modified crank wheel is a brilliant idea. I sadly do not have the tools to do such to mine, wish I did, because that would be awesome.

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I am going to turbo mine and starting on the build right now.We are going to run a presicion 6870 turbo, It should produce between 600 and 1000 HP . Crazy numbers but they regularly do it with supras that have lower displacement and lower flow numbers. . I have already fabricated equal length runner and bend headers with stainless weld els 1.5In . The motor has been blueprinted, balanced, arp rod bolts and head studs, the rods worked with bronze bushings etc etc. The heads flow more than 25% over stock. I just want this to be a real supercar. Keep me posted on the output you get with the injection and ignition on computer . I can do all the mechanical , wiring and fabrication but have to leave the mapping up to someone experienced in this. I hope yours does great. I am really looking forward to your dyno numbers. Check out my post on the power windows on the othr site. It makes a huge difference in the up and down speed. I designed a relay circuit that corrects the problem. Lee

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  • 2 weeks later...

More pics

 

It began

xOOmUCP.jpg

 

Then it was a matter of picking it up off the blocks and figuring out how to get it turned around and clear the Jalpa.

kSZQwh6.jpg

 

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My friends ended up bringing over some truck jacks and stands so we had TONS of clearance.

xy462z6.jpg

 

Once we actually got it under it was a matter of verrrrry slowly and carefully getting the car down.

oXMGZgp.jpg

 

we4nHVS.jpg

 

Gf4Lutd.jpg

 

And then, magic!

pGw45pH.jpg

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Awesome!!! I bet youre getting anxious

 

Anxious and nervous since it's all coming together. BUT... it's ok since it's all about to come together at last. I'm still being patient and making sure not to hurry since it'd be very easy to get into "fcuk it let's just put it together" mode, but that's not what i want for this car.

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Not superb pics but I made a flat media CF panel for my ECU mount. The PO gutted out the areas behind the seats for amplifiers. Now they will house EFI goodies. Going to work on the oil cooler and other bits today. It'll end up with carpet and look stock since the CF panel is quite thin.

 

rBJPvmI.jpg

 

09hYbPA.jpg

 

18767373_10154396023976744_6113353096034

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Alright, well, i took video and facebook was like "you had music on in your garage so fcuk you, you can't upload that." But I got all the lines I need, as well as coolant hoses today, tons of clamps. Got the oil cooler pump hooked back up (we had it disabled for dyno day).

 

I flushed the transmission and holy crap there is a LOT of stuff in there. I'm going to need to flush it several times but man there was just so much stuff in there. Looks like that transmission has never been flushed. When I took the back plating off and the plug a bunch of ancient goo was in a nice big puddle and just sort of.... oozed out.

 

If anyone has recommendations on some good liquids to fill that puppy with and flush all the crap out with i'm all ears.

 

Also apparently the drain plugs are a 22x1.5 plug. Mine are pretty crappy looking, going to try and give them an acid bath and if they don't clean up I'll get new ones. Cross reference appears to show that they fit some BMWs. If anyone has any recommendations there I'm also all ears.

 

The plate fits marvelously. Tomorrow I'm going to attempt to finish sealing up the floor board, get the pedals out, inspect the bushings, replace if necessary and start putting the interior back together. I'll also run the harness into the engine bay so that I can start actually wiring it up.

 

At this point, i want to scrub all the coolant pipes and clean them off. They've got a lot of residue on them. Nothing that won't be easy to clean off, but I've seen how aluminum coolant pipes fair over the years on my Porsches when there's residue buildup and it just eats away at them. It would appear the PO didn't use aluminum friendly coolant. Not surprising since the cylinders were flooded with green shitty coolant in the first place.

 

From there I need to test the headlight motors. They apparently use fiat X1/9 motors, does anyone know where I can source these? They look an awful lot like Porsche 914 motors and Porsche 924 motors. I can go through the wiring on them and cleaning them up. But if by chance the gears inside are crappy, I'll want to replace those.

 

Window motors are cleaned up and ready to go in the doors. Oddly enough, Porsche 924/944 motors fit them. At least the motor part. The electonics are different on the ends, but they mate directly to the old body and work (tested them). Should be an enormous upgrade over the stock motors. Who would have thought that $100 worth of 944 window motors would be such an upgrade over the $1250 stock motors. The internals look so weak on them, it's no surprise they deteriorate so badly over the years.

 

Progress, progress, progress.

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The problem is more the voltage to the motors than the motors themselves. The original system has way too much resistance. Check out my post on upgrade for Jalpa window motors on the other site. I designed Hav ea relay circuit that corrects the problem. Have you run it on the dyno yet?? I am dying to see the results. Also on mine I switched to a Garrett gen 2 3582 reverse rotation turbo for more space for the intercooler. I need to start a post on my build but want to see yours done first> Lee

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