Countach air circulation units

So noticed today with the car on, my passenger side radiator fan moves really slowly. Slow enough to watch it go around. With the engine off and the ignition on it doesn't move at all.

 

What's up with that?

So noticed today with the car on, my passenger side radiator fan moves really slowly. Slow enough to watch it go around. With the engine off and the ignition on it doesn't move at all.

 

What's up with that?

Sounds like the fan bearing is seizing up. With everything turned off, are you able to reach the fan and try to spin it by hand to see if it turns freely?

Sounds like the fan bearing is seizing up. With everything turned off, are you able to reach the fan and try to spin it by hand to see if it turns freely?

 

 

Both sides seem the same on that... About a quarter to half of a turn when flicked with a finger

Both sides seem the same on that... About a quarter to half of a turn when flicked with a finger

I believe they all do that, mine is the same. I noticed one side spinning like crazy, other side slowly.. I think it clicks on after certain temp.

Sorry. I read the thread title and thought it was about people that love the Countach.

Sorry. I read the thread title and thought it was about people that love the Countach.

Lol

In a 2 fan system when one fan is on the other will move slowly based on a small amount of airflow transfer in the engine bay. With a 4 fan system when only 2 fans are running the fans opposite the radiator moves freely.

 

The fan switch/thermostat has 3 wires: 1) blue - black stripe, 2)white - black stripe, 3) black

When cold short 1 & 3 (lower temp) and you should be able to mimic what you're seeing. Then short 2 & 3 (higher temp) all fans should be on.

 

Do you have 2 or 4 fans? I have 4 and see what you see all the time because when the puller is on (low temp closed only) the pusher is not powered (on the drivers side), it just rotates slow and freely.

In a 2 fan system when one fan is on the other will move slowly based on a small amount of airflow transfer in the engine bay. With a 4 fan system when only 2 fans are running the fans opposite the radiator moves freely.

 

The fan switch/thermostat has 3 wires: 1) blue - black stripe, 2)white - black stripe, 3) black

When cold short 1 & 3 (lower temp) and you should be able to mimic what you're seeing. Then short 2 & 3 (higher temp) all fans should be on.

 

Do you have 2 or 4 fans? I have 4 and see what you see all the time because when the puller is on (low temp closed only) the pusher is not powered (on the drivers side), it just rotates slow and freely.

 

I have a US Fuel Injection with the four fans...

 

The front fan that you can easily see (pusher?) passenger is moving slowly (although the car had only been on about five minutes so maybe not hot enough to hit that "higher temp" scenario you mentioned)... But the rear fan that you cant see (the puller?) is obviously spinning away from the whirring sound...

 

I have a US Fuel Injection with the four fans...

 

The front fan that you can easily see (pusher?) passenger is moving slowly (although the car had only been on about five minutes so maybe not hot enough to hit that "higher temp" scenario you mentioned)... But the rear fan that you cant see (the puller?) is obviously spinning away from the whirring sound...

 

The puller fan is causing the pusher fan to spin by way of the airflow. It's essentially windmilling until the thermostat kicks it on.

I have a US Fuel Injection with the four fans...

 

The front fan that you can easily see (pusher?) passenger is moving slowly (although the car had only been on about five minutes so maybe not hot enough to hit that "higher temp" scenario you mentioned)... But the rear fan that you cant see (the puller?) is obviously spinning away from the whirring sound...

That sounds correct as emanon stated. I also have 4 fans and see the same thing. Tonight I'll post which fans turn on when. A few years ago I spent hours/days researching the fans, reading all of the opinions about 2 fans vs 4 fans, which ones turn on when, and how pushers and pullers could work against each other. The thing to look out for is the current draw and the propensity to fry relays.

 

Check out this thread. Jalpa_Mike did some great work.

http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?...c=47578&hl=

That sounds correct as emanon stated. I also have 4 fans and see the same thing. Tonight I'll post which fans turn on when. A few years ago I spent hours/days researching the fans, reading all of the opinions about 2 fans vs 4 fans, which ones turn on when, and how pushers and pullers could work against each other. The thing to look out for is the current draw and the propensity to fry relays.

 

Check out this thread. Jalpa_Mike did some great work.

http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?...c=47578&hl=

 

Yep, everyone is correct. The "Puller" fans kick on first when the water temperature hits approx. 175 degrees. If the engine still continues to get hot, the "Pusher" fans will kick on around 190 degrees.

 

My puller fans also rotate slightly as the Pullers are running. With the beefed up SPAL fans that I installed, they move much more air than the OEM units.

 

Here is a PowerPoint drawing that I made showing how the fans operate on my '86 5000QV. Remember, my car had the plastic box behind the left-hand rear panel in the trunk. Not the later models that had the metal unit. But this at least shows what temp the fans kick on at (by the way, the sender/switch for the fans in screwed into the Right Radiator. Photo attached).

 

Mike

Cool_Fan_Electrical.ppt

I just realized that probably not everyone has Power Point.

 

Here is the same diagram in .PDF format.

 

Mike

Cool_Fan_Electrical.pdf

So bottom line- As lomg as my "Puller fans" are going, I dont have to worry?

So bottom line- As lomg as my "Puller fans" are going, I dont have to worry?

 

Assuming the pushers still kick on at the desired temps, it should all be good, and I would expect them to spin a little when the pullers kick on. Hell they probably spin on their own when you're driving the car, you just never see it.

 

Just as a triple check, have you gotten the car up to temp to see if both sets kick on? or, jump the relay and confirm they are functioning just to be sure?

 

Is the car running warm?

 

I personally like Jalpa_Mike's upgrade of some stronger SPAL puller fans as the primaries and not really relying on the pushers as much. Going through a core (heat exchanger) pulling always works more efficiently than pushing.

Assuming the pushers still kick on at the desired temps, it should all be good, and I would expect them to spin a little when the pullers kick on. Hell they probably spin on their own when you're driving the car, you just never see it.

 

Just as a triple check, have you gotten the car up to temp to see if both sets kick on? or, jump the relay and confirm they are functioning just to be sure?

 

Is the car running warm?

 

I personally like Jalpa_Mike's upgrade of some stronger SPAL puller fans as the primaries and not really relying on the pushers as much. Going through a core (heat exchanger) pulling always works more efficiently than pushing.

 

Cars not running warm... But jumping this and that is way beyond my comfort level.

Cars not running warm... But jumping this and that is way beyond my comfort level.

All you need is a short wire with alligator clips. Short the contacts on the thermostat to trip the relay. It's on the top of the right radiator.

All you need is a short wire with alligator clips. Short the contacts on the thermostat to trip the relay. It's on the top of the right radiator.

 

You can accomplish this with a paperclip, if you can swap your speedo drives this is cake.

All you need is a short wire with alligator clips.

 

I have these

 

Short the contacts on the thermostat to trip the relay.

aaaaaaaaand you've lost me....

 

It's on the top of the right radiator.

 

 

Think of the relay as a light switch. It just stops the current when it's open. Easy to check, next time I see you, I'll show exactly what to do. I think your ok anyways, just watch your temp like you would normally.

This may help...

Think of the relay as a light switch. It just stops the current when it's open. Easy to check, next time I see you, I'll show exactly what to do. I think your ok anyways, just watch your temp like you would normally.

When are you going to get your lambos running??? Im going to be the turd in the punchbowl next weekend at Huber's... I need the backup...

This may help...

OK... Now I know where the thingy is that I dont know what Im supposed to do to it... Other than something with nipple clamps.... Uh... I mean alligator clips...

The fan switch/thermostat has 3 wires: 1) blue - black stripe, 2) white - black stripe, 3) black

 

When cold turn on the ignition. All fans should be off.

 

Short 1 & 3 (lower temp) with your nipple clamps (or a screwdriver or paperclip) and you should be able to mimic what you're seeing. Then short 2 & 3 (higher temp) all fans should be on. You can’t damage anything since this is on the low amp side of the relay.

 

This is how my car is wired.

The fan switch/thermostat has 3 wires: 1) blue - black stripe, 2) white - black stripe, 3) black

 

When cold turn on the ignition. All fans should be off.

 

Short 1 & 3 (lower temp) with your nipple clamps (or a screwdriver or paperclip) and you should be able to mimic what you're seeing. Then short 2 & 3 (higher temp) all fans should be on. You can’t damage anything since this is on the low amp side of the relay.

 

This is how my car is wired.

 

I dont understand what you mean when you say "short" it. Physically describe, in a way that a cow can learn to program a VCR, what would I do?

I dont understand what you mean when you say "short" it. Physically describe, in a way that a cow can learn to program a VCR, what would I do?

You got me there. You know about vapor lock so you should be fine

 

I'll bite. Simply connect/jump the two leads together (with the wires still attached to the thermostat). But be careful…