rollingzep

Just got starter back in car. A lot easier to put in than take out. Car starts like a charm every time now. Best $152.44 I ever spent. While I was in there cleaned up all the grounds. This is a job I don't look forward to seeing for at least the next 23 years. A lot of bruised forearms and knuckles and fibreglass shards which will suck for the next few days.

And also if anyone attempts to change starter no 19mm socket fits around nut to remove starter. I had to do it with a stubby thin walled wrench. Not fun

So I got under car and again and tried everything to get it started. Nothing not even a click. I'm getting 12v to starter and I even tried jumping the terminals but no dice. So I decided to take starter out. What a pain. After a couple of hours of cursing and busted knuckles and even some more cursing I got starter out. I ended up doing what some others have done and cut the heat shield to get to starter. No way in heck was I yanking motor right now. Car would never get done then. I already have yanked motors on 308 and lotus esprit and it's been a couple years. The poor cars are neglected sitting in a corner. Don't want the same for diablo. Just not enough time and sometimes not enough motivation. I know I know it hurts value but I'm never selling car so if someone else decides to sell it after I die, don't care. I have a tests rosa now for 20 years it's been modified and it was never bought as or thought of as an investment. Neither is this car. Anyways I'm going to go to have this starter rebuilt. One thing was taking it out. Putting it back in now is another question. I guess some more cursing and more knuckles bruised. I know a while back someone was talking about fitting in one of them mini starters, did anyone ever get around to it?

When I turn key fuel pumps prime, lights in dash turn on but headlights won't turn on. ??????? That's why I say if I hear fans turn on then I know at least I'll hear a click and since I did the starter relay boost car will eventually start. Has anyone ever had a problem with ignition switch? It's almost as if some things aren't getting juice to work such as headlights. With the key on the on position headlights should lift but they do t. I'm gonna put car on lift this week and check to see if I even get power to the starter. Can it be a ground problem? I remember once I had a bmw that would not do anything but as soon as I hooked up a ground cable from battery straight to block, the car started. I will try that as well. The other thing I don't get is I have a 1967 impala big block with original starter in ther and 160000 miles on original motor and the car crank every single time. How the heck did that starter hold up for 50 years and this one can't even make it to 23 years?

I did that already. Starter still did nothing. No click or anything. So I touched the battery post and switch at starter and starter spun. Then for the next week no issue with starter. Car turned over. Last night I take car for drive then again no start. First two three twists of the key I got a click then nothing. A few more twists and car started. Today the same thing. Now car doesn't start. I'm going to put car on lift and again touch the two posts to see if starter spins. It's driving me crazy.

I am having a major issue with my car. Starter may be on the way out. I added relay to the starter and still having issue. But I don't know if it is all starter problem. When I twist key nothing happens not a click or anything. The dash lights come on and battery is fully charged. When I turn the key and the radiator fans come on at least I get a click from solenoid and after a few attempts the car will start. But recently not even the fans turn on. So my question is once you turn key on do the radiator fans come on always? And if so what would cause the fans not to come on? I'm just hoping it's not the starter. I'm not ready to pull motor yet. I'm hoping maybe something stupid and silly like a ground problem. I appreciate any help. Thanks in advance

Thanks. I took the 4 Allan head screws out and just had to pry it out a bit. I guess you can advance the timing from here. Replaced on-ring and don't see any oil yet. Now saw one of the phase sensors with the wire frayed. Do I just unbolt and replace or do I have to adjust the sensors

Hey guys I have 94 vt that the distributor is leaking oil inside cap. I want to remove the distributor so I can put new seals on. I took of cap and rotor and inside were 4 bolts with 5m allen head bolts. I took those out but cant seem to pulls out distributor. Am I missing something here? There are 2 bolts where there is a flange that holds what I believe the distributor shaft in place but I dont want to mess with that unless it has to come. Thank you in advance for your help

First the good- So finally got around to installing a couple lifts in garage and tackled a few jobs on my 94VT. Or should I say VT-less. Took out front differential, half shafts, drive shaft and converted it to RWD. Completely different car. Car is lighter up front, clutch is softer pedal, no more shoveling when trying to make a u-turn. Definitely feels faster. Car took on different characteristics. The only problem since change is surges a bit when coasting at low rpms. Not a problem just a bit annoying at times. Also put on the Hercules wheels from Murci looks absolutely wonderful Now the bad- Decided to change a few sensors(water temperature and air temperature sensors). So when I changed the coolant temp sensor antifreeze spilled out and fell over the motor. Being a bit anal about that smart me decided to hose down the area. Started car and idled fine. As soon as I started to drive the car ran like crap. Backfiring no power nothing. Could not get revs up at all. Figured I got cap and rotor wet. SO I limp home and take off cap and rotor and I found oil everywhere in there. Not soaked but oil. Car ran good before. First cant figure out how oil got in there second oil was in there and car ran fine. What the hell is going on here? Will take photos tomorrow

That helps if i know if im reading codes correct. Thats what i need help on

Unfortunately its a 94-obd1

Im having such a hard time reading the check engine light codes. The R CEL has been on for a bit but today the L CEL came on. Can someone please help me? Is it left side 6+2 or is it 8 and on the right is it 1+2+1+9. The left side came on today for the first time and after I turned car off and drove it again it went away. Hopefully the video I post will work. Thanks in advance IMG_3864.MOV

No I will be taking the whole front diff plus axles out as well. Bought the SV stub for front hub

Hey guys I am going to convert my 94 VT to RWD and have a question for you guys. I have heard that the AWD is splits power 80/20. Now when I take off front differential will i get full 100% power to the rear or am i still losing the power that goes to the front? Just curious. Thanks

Lease was finished at end of july where i had them stored. Fought with town to build a garage for almost two years. Finally got approved for a 2500sq ft garage. Should be up by end of month. So yes unfortunately for thentime being they are left outside. Theyre all covered. Spent about 2k to get special covers for all weatherconditions. Id rather have them home than dispersed around town in several garages. Like i said its only for this month. Neighbors must hate me but i dont care