jjp11 Report post Posted March 2, 2018 I've been mulling over the best route to take with my speaker replacement. Mine are pretty much shot. I don't want an amp, just new speakers. I know everyone recommends components, but I was wondering if anyone has installed 6.5" coaxial speakers in the doors and simply disconnected the stock tweeters? This would keep us from having to pry open the door handle and replace the tweeters. The stock tweeters could just stay in there, disconnected. I'm wondering if they'll fit inside the grille guard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCR Report post Posted March 2, 2018 Like you said, let’s see if you can find a coaxial model that would fit the enclosure first as there isn’t much room in both width and depth. Next, you know that for sure the sound will be compromised due to simple physics — stand alone woofer unit vs. coaxial woofer + tweeter; plus tweeter is now relocated where your leg is instead of your arm (ideally, the tweeter is best at ear level). But with due respect, the G’s OEM stereo is quite horrendous to begin with (trust me, I had 4 G’s with one of them having the full Alpine top-of-the line hardware install. It’s an improvement but still far from ideal); and the cabin layout is just impossible for good sound. Another factor to consider is whether the headunit have enough power to drive the coaxial speakers. If it’s OEM, it’s a pretty cheap Panasonic unit and it more than likely does not have the power to drive a pair of coaxials properly. Can you remove the entire door card and access the tweeter from behind without tempering with the door handles? Or that’s too much of an undertaking? Personally, I can’t foresee any improvement at all; it’s your car, your speakers and your $ though so it’s up to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjp11 Report post Posted March 3, 2018 Like you said, let’s see if you can find a coaxial model that would fit the enclosure first as there isn’t much room in both width and depth. Next, you know that for sure the sound will be compromised due to simple physics — stand alone woofer unit vs. coaxial woofer + tweeter; plus tweeter is now relocated where your leg is instead of your arm (ideally, the tweeter is best at ear level). But with due respect, the G’s OEM stereo is quite horrendous to begin with (trust me, I had 4 G’s with one of them having the full Alpine top-of-the line hardware install. It’s an improvement but still far from ideal); and the cabin layout is just impossible for good sound. Another factor to consider is whether the headunit have enough power to drive the coaxial speakers. If it’s OEM, it’s a pretty cheap Panasonic unit and it more than likely does not have the power to drive a pair of coaxials properly. Can you remove the entire door card and access the tweeter from behind without tempering with the door handles? Or that’s too much of an undertaking? Personally, I can’t foresee any improvement at all; it’s your car, your speakers and your $ though so it’s up to you. I have an aftermarket pioneer avic-8200nex head unit. I just keep reading about how everyone struggles to replace the tweeters. I have a CF door handle and would like to avoid breaking it. I'll have a professional do the install. Is it possible to replace tweeters without removing the door handle? I have no idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhbchess Report post Posted March 3, 2018 I would just like to interject, having owned a spyder and a perf spyder, that you have zero use for a sound system if you switch over to a convertible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCR Report post Posted March 3, 2018 I have an aftermarket pioneer avic-8200nex head unit. I just keep reading about how everyone struggles to replace the tweeters. I have a CF door handle and would like to avoid breaking it. I'll have a professional do the install. Is it possible to replace tweeters without removing the door handle? I have no idea. Got it on the headunit. Instruct your pro installer to remove the entire door card/panel. The interior door handle can be separated from the door card/panel. The installer can then remove the door handle as a single unit (without disassembling it) and access the tweeter from the underside. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjp11 Report post Posted March 3, 2018 Got it on the headunit. Instruct your pro installer to remove the entire door card/panel. The interior door handle can be separated from the door card/panel. The installer can then remove the door handle as a single unit (without disassembling it) and access the tweeter from the underside. Ok, thanks. Is this what you're basically saying to do? http://i.imgur.com/u5VldLP.jpg and then the door handle assembly can be completely removed without having to split it open? Is there a reason why others don't go this route? I just keep hearing about how everyone breaks their door handles doing speaker installs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCR Report post Posted March 3, 2018 Ok, thanks. Is this what you're basically saying to do? http://i.imgur.com/u5VldLP.jpg and then the door handle assembly can be completely removed without having to split it open? Is there a reason why others don't go this route? I just keep hearing about how everyone breaks their door handles doing speaker installs. Yes and you are almost there. You then need to remove the handle from the doors to access the underside. Here are 2 pics that should assist you and your installer on how the OEM tweeter is positioned. The reason is time & cost of labour. The G's door handle consist of 3 different pieces. To disassemble it correctly, you almost need to take everything apart and it's time-consuming. Breaking the handle to access the tweeter is much easier and faster but not the appropriate way. If you have CF handles then it would even make more sense to go through the labour and do everything properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjp11 Report post Posted March 4, 2018 Thanks for the information. Very helpful. I will forward it to my installer when the time comes. I guess my next question would be, which exact speaker adapters do I need to mount the new speakers? I've seen several different Audi A3 & A4 adapters mentioned, but am looking for a specific part # or link to adapters that definitely fit aftermarket 6.5s. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCR Report post Posted March 4, 2018 You are welcome. No sure what you mean by adaptor. If you mean the wiring connector, that should be fairly universal; you will need to ask a Lambo or Audi dealership for the part #. If you are talking about the mounting hardware/bracket, the most feasible way is MDF board & a jigsaw. You can shape the bracket to exact fit and MDF is dense enough to secure the speaker properly. The downside is you are adding weight to the car but that applies to every after-market/custom install so you have to make the call on when do things become excessive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjp11 Report post Posted March 4, 2018 You are welcome. No sure what you mean by adaptor. If you mean the wiring connector, that should be fairly universal; you will need to ask a Lambo or Audi dealership for the part #. If you are talking about the mounting hardware/bracket, the most feasible way is MDF board & a jigsaw. You can shape the bracket to exact fit and MDF is dense enough to secure the speaker properly. The downside is you are adding weight to the car but that applies to every after-market/custom install so you have to make the call on when do things become excessive. I'm talking about something like this below. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_118107...53-SAAI653.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VCR Report post Posted March 4, 2018 Ok. As afore-said, I prefer custom cut-out from MDF. This would ensure 100% figment and the speakers will be very securely mounted. There isn’t much depth to the woofer enclosure so not sure if adding ring collar for the mount would work or not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_B Report post Posted February 6, 2019 Soooo, what happened? Did your installer break anything? It almost seems worth keeping the stock speaker if gain is only minimal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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