IlToro

Quick Silver or Larini is a good choice for exhaust with straight pipes if you want your car to growl. However, looking at the pics it looks like something has already been done to your exhaust because the tips are different. Good to know the SV gives more satisfaction than the new cars. No need for me to trade then!

Glad you did that, I was beginning to wonder if the Diablo section even worked anymore! Are they all parked?

Here's some: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Lamborghini-Diablo-SV-/264108133121?hash=item3d7e124b01%3Ag%3A4qoAAOSwTSlcJvwa&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=557GP5kFis9jumKH3Ef7jzTJS0E%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Lamborghini-Diablo-SV-/283297532976?hash=item41f5d94c30%3Ag%3AaOUAAOSwcH5cDfPj&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=557GP5kFis9jumKH3Ef7jzTJS0E%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

How to search E-Bay for past auctions? There was, I think a blue one recently. It had a 6.0 front end. Around the $200K mark. Might have been damaged (modified), then a few months ago there was a nice black one, $170K BUY it now price.

Who knows. Prices are all over the place. Some SV's asking near $400K, some on E-Bay for under $200k with nothing apparently wrong. It's desire meeting reality. To me the Turbo package wouldn't add one cent of value since it didn't come from the factory, in fact it might be worth less than a standard model. Exotics are a risky endeavor in the first place, add that's it's 20 years old and been modified, not attractive IMO. One thing for sure, this one will go for a lot less with that tacky scripting on it.

Looks like coolant to me. Not thick looking, more like water, and there's no other green liquid in the car. Need to make sure about the color.

The fans aren't suppose to run with the engine off, no matter how hot. As to the original question, I have no idea.

Well now I don't need to go driving today. Next best thing.

That's where it is.

Wouldn't make sense to be the runners. If the felt was worn, that's less material to drag on, unless it was cocked in there, but unlikely both sides. How bout just some silicon spray?

1. Fuel gauge, good luck, both of my cars so it, sometimes it drops to zero, and then slowly builds it's way back to the correct reading. There's not an easy fix. Word is, it's NOT the sender. 2. Changing the thermostat is no different than changing on other cars, it's been a while, but basically remove the housing and lift the old one out, new one in. Also suspect your tank cap seal, both fans working? Using a laser temp gun, shoot the tank or therm housing, and compare against your gauge to see if it really is as hot as it reads. 4. Don't be in a hurry to replace bushings etc. I've done two 45 year old Pantera's, and while the bushings looked cracked around the rims, the inside was still supple. Suspension work is a pain for DIYer's.

Thanks Jeff, I understand and will look at those two things.

I was thinking fuel pressure too which I don't think the computer could sense, and thus no CEL. Jeff, the idle speed is 900 RPM when warmed up. It does not idle up to the typical 1500 RPM or so when cold, You have to keep giving it gas which would point to the Carter motor? Thanks for the replys.

The 98 SV will start, but then die repeatedly. When coming to a stop, the RPM's seem to drop suddenly, and the engine dies. It will always start right back up, but then want to stall again unless you get moving. After warm up the condition seems to improve with less stalling, but is still intermittently present. Have checked for vacuum leaks, and considering items like Carter motor, and throttle position sensor it seems there would be an associated CEL, but there are none, and the engine runs fine once underway. What else to check?

yeah, that was me.

If you go by the book, you're suppose to evacuate the system, find out how much freon by weight the system holds, then weigh, and put in the exact amount. Alternatively, you can use any number of those trigger guns with gauges that screw on the freon cans, they're all over the place. You attach it to the low side of the AC system which should be located above the driver side rear wheel, and wheel arch. (that's where it is on MY year 97), don't know if it's there on 91 models. You can access it by jacking the car up a few inches., reach in there and snap it on the fitting which has a screw cap on it. The unit I use has a gauge on it and when it measures in the blue area then the system is pretty much filled. I have to do this once a year. Woks good, it's fast and safe. On yea, start the car and run the AC on full cold, pull the trigger, the can will get super cold and frost over. Obviously this will only work if the system is otherwise good, and just leaks freon.

Denso IX27 Had them in for 5 years.

$15-20K would be crazy. As these cars are becoming more and more of an investment vehicle, how are you going to get your money back? Whether that little light is flashing or not has nothing to do with the value of the car, or as I said, how it drives.

Both of my cars have flashing suspension lights. I wouldn't fix it if there was a fix, which I'm sure will be expensive. Who really needs to adjust their suspension anyway. I will say, one seems to ride pretty rough even though I've never set it to firm. I thought they failed in the normal setting?

This will deviate from the original subject, but it got me to thinking about future values. Of course the pristine cars will always demand a premium, but the cost to fix these cars will do nothing but increase. For average cars, the repair to value curve may well have crossed. We say we don't care about value, we just want to drive them, but that's bull. Can you imagine a disposable Diablo in the future? Do the dealerships even want to work on them anymore? Some cars will surely face this scenario.

How bout a cross to both belts. They are DAYCO 785k6 1736516 for the serpentine one, and Dayco 4534071 for the AC compressor. However, these do not come up under any search. They are made in Italy. I also wonder about the drive belt being 12mm wide, and if a 1/2" belt could be used in it's place.

Wow didn't know it could be done without cutting something. I think 94-96 is the absolute last year you can do it with out an engine pull. Congrats on that. Sounds like that's the problem for sure.

Both of my cars do that too. I've installed the relay boost, but sometimes just a click two or three times, then they always start.

Fans shouldn't come on with just the key on, so it sounds like somebody's been messing with the wiring...Maybe other also? If you can get under the car, wack the starter with a plastic mallet. If it starts right away you can bet that's the problem.

Under dash drivers side. That's where they all are.