jefflambo

A friend of mine has been looking for a rear ABS sensor for a bit with no luck. If find you find a cross reference let us know. I will post if we come with one. Its for a 2001 6.0 Im sure the 98 is same.

Hi Dose not mater if car is in gear when you replace battery. Bigger battery will not fit in the brackets. Interstates info is wrong. Unless it has wrong battery in it know and is lose in its brackets.

When a clutch is installed you run the read write program. The egear releases the TOB which has a sensor on it. When it sees the main shaft start to turn thats the starting point of clutch life. As the clutch wears the TOB must travel more for the main shaft to start to turn. The more travel the more wear on clutch. When a snapshot is done its just pulling stored info from the egear ECU. So the egear does not do any thing at the time of a snapshot

Lamborghini has a ABS program to read errors. Most common issue is 1 of the sensors intermittently cutting out. You can try to clean sensors connections and add Stablant to the connectors. It may be hard to get new sensors.

They show the part in stock and for just under 1k at Scuderia parts.

The potentiometers are not part of the actuator. They can be replaced. They due go bad, I have replaced them many times. Part number for potentiometers is 086927321A Thats from Bull Stuf a little over 1K. Good luck with your repair I hope this info helps. I worked on Lambos for over 20 years at 2 dealers before I retired due to a injury.

Take out the new part and see if the go back to normal.

Have you had any work done to system or top off fluid level? Have you checked fluid level? There is a vent in cap that will expel oil if over filled.

If you want to know what it sounds like with valves open all the time it's easy to do. Lay on the ground you can reach up thru the air dam and remove vacuum lines from the valves and plug them, zip tie them up. Test drive. It does not make that big of a difference. At ideal is where you notice the biggest change.

It can be done with engine in. The spec for valve lash will be on engine data sticker on side panel. Do you have a source to get valve shims or will you need to order them as needed. The shims are not cheep. I have done the valve adjust many times with engines in car on Diablos, Murci and LP640 use a step stool makes it a bit better. If you can't get the valve lash spec. I can look it up let me know, I remember it but always look it up best source is engine data sticker on side panel.

I have seen them drip a little when tightn by hand. I would give them a slight snug with oil filter tool to make sure they did not drip. I have changed oil on so many during the 21 years I spent working on Lamborghini's.

Strange had no issues when using factory clutch assembly and new disc. Installed a lot of them. Was the work done at a dealer or shop? What do they say the issue is. There is a 6 month warranty on parts but being clutch they will say no warranty wear item. But if it can be proved with measurements that one of the parts is defective they might cover the parts. Labor if it was done at a dealer if they proved parts where defectives.

No its not normal. Is it E-GEAR? What was replaced? Was it a reman or new clutch assembly?

I have seen this issue caused by the alarm siren. The alarm siren is bad. Good chance if you replace your alarm siren the issue will stop. I swapped one from a different car for a test it solved issue so I replaced the siren for customer and issue was gone. Did not read all the post before I posted

If you are doing programing work on a ECU a battery charger that has support mode should be used. Voltage never stays that high with the key on with out support. LARA is not that sensitive to voltage as other platforms are. But as a good rule a charger with support mode should be used.

Dexron IV or V can be used in systems that call for Dexron II. Make sure when you add fluid to have lift system down or you will over fill it (better a little low then over filled) and it will make a mess when you drive it and it gets hot. They can leak from any part of the lift or P/S system. Must inspect. The shocks can leak, steering rack, hoses to steering rack, lift supply hose, high pressure hose from pump to lifting system are the more normal items.

Voltage test on battery is done with key off. Should be around 12.6. Its normal for voltage to drop when key is on as many items power up with key on and draw on battery. 12.+ volts with key on is none issue in my book. At this point it does not sound like you have a issue.

I think your axial bolts backed out. I have seen then come loose from time to time. You should be able turn the hub, if bearing is bad you will feel it and it will have play. You don't seem to have a lot of experience with a repair like this maybe best to send it to some one that does. I agree looks like split CV boot. May just need new boot and bolts. The flange holes on inside look like they are oblong from bolt coming loose. May need new flange also. I would want to see it after cleaned up to make that call. The bearing is mounted inside the upright with the hub going to the flange. The part with the grease is the CV joint and you don't use a socket to take it apart. This is why best have cars serviced by some one that knows what to look out for & inspects the car each time it gets the oil changed every year to avoid costly repairs and possible unsafe situations that could result in a accident. This could have been worse and avoided.

What code did they say the ECU had stored in it?

They are not factory. All are after market.

Have you checked the vacuum line going to the map sensor? If good swap map sensors.

The seat can be adjusted with ODIS to allow the seat to go all the way back until it touches the back panel. Its set up from factory not to get to close to avoid any wear issues like the 560 Gallardo spyders had.

I would say avoid MY 2012. Ride is not as good as 13 and up cars. Gear box issues, engine harness issues, seem to have more oil leaks, they do not get engine/gear box soft wear updates as much as newer modles and more problems in general then newer modles. I would recommend 2014 or newer. As far as coup/roadster thats a matter of your preference.

There is 1/4 inch spacers under seat fram. They can be removed. Can lead to some wear on carpet after some time exp. if you adjust the seat alot. Seat mounting bolts go thru spacers on all 4 mount points.

The coolant hose can be replaced on a coup or roadster with engine in. Every time removed a engine I would replace that hose is what I ment. Its easy with engine out. Kinda a pain with engine in, but can be done.