michaelpua

Did the diagnostics turn up any "pending" error? Could be the phase sensors problem. When they fail, the ECU will cut all ignition and that's like total fuel cutoff instantly (not gradually).

Nice shot! Thx!

After 30,000km in my LP640: 1. When you are sprinting, floor it and keep it there to get the fastest and most violent gear change. Hold the steer wheel firmly for control and dear life. 2. Normal driving: lifting the accelerator slightly before shifting gives the clutch and flywheel a little more time to synchronize before mating. Its a smoother change and gentler on the clutch. If you hold the accelerator while shifting, the car is going to try to shift as quickly as possible (by programming default I suppose). I get the clutch wear measured regularly and I should be able to get about 45,000km from this current one.

If you practice lifting the gas at various moments, you can get interesting responses. Lifting for a short moment between 1&2, 2&3 can produce automatic like smoothness during civil cruising. When driving with higher rpm, lifting just after shifting up can produce a nice roar like downshifting. Practice, practice, practice on your V12 orchestra.

If you practice lifting the gas at various moments, you can get interesting responses. Lifting for a short moment between 1&2, 2&3 can produce automatic like smoothness during civil cruising. When driving with higher rpm, lifting just after shifting up can produce a nice roar like downshifting. Practice, practice, practice on your V12 orchestra.

The glass lens is basically sealed all round with silicon sealant. The idea is to be able to slice all the way through the grooved mating profile between the glass lens and plastic body. I had to design a special tool CNC machined from spring steel. Takes 3 mins to open the light, but another 20mins to thoroughly remove the old sealant. Then another 30mins to polish out the white residue on the inside. Strangely no solvents work to any significant effect. Resealing has to be done in a very clean and dust free environment. Not a simple task, i'd say. Went through 3 sets to finally get it right with no breakage or scratches on the glass, ouch...

Yup, another orange Murci whose got cloudy headlights.... He might get his done too....

Finally fitted the cleaned and glorified headlights back in my car. Now thinking about other ideas to improve them the next time I open them to clean....

I do run the lights all the time, just because the car looks much better with them on as well as better visibility to other motorists for such a low/short car. I'm sure the white residue is directly related to the usage of the lights, so it will gradually become apparent eventually. I'm exploring a possible LED projector retrofit which could eliminate the souce of the problem altogether. I also found that although the glass lens is totally sealed, there are several vent pipes at the bottom and top of the assembly to allow air circulation and moisture to escape.

My 3 year old LP640 was having cloudy headlights. On further investigation, I found that it is not water vapour, but a white residue deposited by the HID lamp. I find this clouding problem quite disturbing as it takes the edge out of the car, making it look old and unkept. The dealer recommends a replacement of S$8k plus each. Ouch!! Some research revealed that the headlights are completely sealed and difficult to open without breaking it somehow. Through further research and actual tests, I have devised a cunning plan to shuck the headlights without applying any heat whatsoever, although a pair of very experienced & sensitive hands is critical with the help of some custom made tools. After cleaning, the headlight looks brand new. I took the opportunity to add some carbon fiber film which makes it look even better!! I am willing to offer this service to fellow murci owners in my free time. PM me for details.

Ben, Have you got pics of the damage? Sounds amazing, I've not heard of this in any car before... Michael

Sad to report that my LP640 is showing signs of surging/jerking again even after the factory clutch & bearing replacement under warranty. I'm only 600km into the new clutch and it's already bucking in 1st and reverse, worse on a slope. E-gear snap shows no clutch wear and zero clutch overheat which means I'm driving it right for sure. Waiting for factory response to this failed repair attempt. Further research revealed that quite a number of LP640s have this problem. YouTube - Matte Grey Lamborghini Murcielago LP640 Part 2/2 It just takes all the fun out of this car, having to worry about this problem constantly at every traffic stop or slope or U-turn. Really guys, does anyone know of a permanent fix??

Actually a very simple test for you guys to try. Stop your e-gear LP640 on a slope facing uphill..... try to move off a short couple of meters distance ... then stop. Do that about 3 times and if your bull doesn't start bucking like the rodeo, you're probably alright. There shouldn't be any burning clutch smell as well. I know a manual G can do that as well as any car out there, having owned one for 40,000km. It's like stopping at a light on a slope or in some sort of queue, quite a normal scenario in the city or hilly areas. Some hotel entrances are elevated and there may be a line getting up to the front entrance. You don't want to arrive like a texas rodeo cowboy on a bucking raging bull. That's just too literal....

That's great for you. Are there any owners of e-gear LP640s who are not experiencing the jerking problem like me and have decent clutch life of 20,000km +?? I have seen another car which doesn't jerk, but it lacks bite and the clutch burns easily. I think manual LP640s would be a blast to drive without the e-gear bugs. Anyone can support that idea??

About the bucking problem in my LP640 Factory sent new engine and e-gear software and new clutch/bearing set. (i.e. they acknowledge the problem) We found the clutch/bearing to be standard parts, not different/improved versions. So we decided to try the software first to see if we can avoid lifting the engine and taking out the old clutch which still has got 70% on it. Uploaded the new engine and e-gear softwares and the car drives perfect!! No bucking or jerking or hesitation for 1st or reverse. I thought the problem was solved!! But the bucking came back after 200+km. Reflashed software again.... drives fine......problem comes back worse after 200+km. So we are going to put in the new clutch/bearing set and try again. Will update.... sigh.....