L33

Unfortunately no - not quite that much. Advertised prices in the UK are well off what they are actually changing hands for - hence nothing advertised is actually shifting. I can't divulge the exact figure as it would be unfair for the new owner.

All I can say is that I managed to purchase a very nice SLS with the necessary optional extras and only 5,000 miles without really adding to the pot of Money I sold the Diablo for. I'm in the UK so obviously prices are slightly different.

I'm afraid I can't divulge the sales price, but I can say I was happy. As for being a poet? If I am, then I don't know it.

Well folks, its been an epic 12 months of Diablo ownership but it saddens me to anounce that the Diablo has gone to a new home. She was one car I thought I'd keep forever but prices here in the UK made it too tempting to sell - I'm sure I'll live to regret it. I've replaced her with a Mercedes SLS AMG which is also a great motor and should be more useable. Good luck & so long folks Drive safe L33

Thanks Sudesh. Just where I thought it was but 30 mins looking and still couldn't find it. I already have a switch - Mike gave me the part number for a generic part. Bargain at £5. I will have another look over the weekend. Do you have to bleed the brakes after fitting?

Does anyone have any idea where the brake light switch is on a 1995 VT please? My brake lights are only coming on at the full extent of pedal travel. There is no electronic switch around the pedal linkage. I've been told its an in-line pressure switch which senses the brake fluid pressure. I was told it was in the front bonnet/trunk, behind the carpet panel on the opposite side to the brake master cylinder. I've had a good look and can't see anything. Can anyone help or happen to have a picture of its location? Many thanks in advance

Many thanks for the offer but I fear shipping across the pond will be very expensive. I'll make some enquiries and see if I can get a set over here in the UK.

Many thanks - I may well give it a go.

For info, I'm a Chartered Mechanical Engineer. Is it just a case of removing front driveshafts? If so are parts required to cap any voids left in the diff or front axles? Is it worth also removing the front diff and propshaft to take advantage of the weight saving?

Mmmmm this has me thinking now. What's involved in converting to RWD? Is it a simple do at home job with a standard toolkit and are any additional parts required?

Your best off giving each wheel a very thorough clean - including the rears where you can't see and then sealing the wheels.. I used bilberry wheel cleaner as its one of safest out there. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/valet-pro-bi...r/prod_499.html A soft brush takes care of cleaning round the wheel bolts. After this you can seal the rims with a decent dedicated wheelcare product. I used planet polish wheel and shine: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0036BRRQU This process took me about 1.5 hours PER WHEEL! Good old fashioned soap and water works for me now the wheels are sealed. The dirt just falls away. Go easy with a jetwash if you use one. Its very easy to wreck the lacquer if the water gets behind it at pressure. If you check out the detailing world website, plenty of useful info over there. http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php

Top work! Your new gauges look sweet. Where did you get the workshop manual from? I see loads of different manuals for sale on ebay but don't know if any of them are any good???

As promised... Drivers side: Passenger side:

I should have mine in the air tomorrow with the wheels off. I'll take a couple of pics for you while I'm at it. Cheers, Lee

My '95 VT does. Don't know if that helps?