Stimpy

That is strange. So to clarify, you unlock the car, get in, start it, and while the car is running the siren goes off, but the car still runs like normal? Do the hazards flash as well? What is the LED on the firewall doing throughout this scenario? What do you have to do to get the siren to stop? If you can't find a quick solution, and the siren is going off, I would unplug it before it injures your hearing. Mine is loud! You can pull the side panel off the center tunnel in the passenger footwell and the Med box is right on top of the airbag controller. It has one small plug going to the led and says LED and the other plug is the siren. Checkout my thread on the lambo*talk forum about the alarm system for pics and more details. It's a recent thread.

Forged carbon is a good choice. It looked really good in Tavarish's Murci. It also looked really good to add it to the bezel around the instrument panel. But IMO, it doesn't need to go beyond those 2 parts.

"Knockoffs," LOL! Are you both saying that Lamborghini makes their own coils in their little factory in Italy?? Ridiculous. Have you noticed how many owners of early Murci's have had to have their "factory" coils replaced after a fraction of the mileage that coils last on other engines? Maybe the ones that Lamborghini chose off the parts bin weren't the best ones, so I am not sure I would want the exact OEM coils. What's your warranty, Nick? And if it's not lifetime, why not, if they are so much better than Napa coils?

A guy named Robert on the Facebook Murci group found this cross-referenced NGK coil using a google search that's 25% less: https://www.sparkplugs.com/product.aspx?zpid=46964&fbclid=IwAR3f7qH-NX1xTnq0eWolYUozzwLEe3FDeanOEuwKKHNaRFf7k79U5lXSO4I And I found those same NGK coils for an additional 10% less on Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,48870,ignition+coil,7060

Half the price and you gain a lifetime warranty! Great find and thanks for sharing!

Great work, and thanks for posting, PoKnow!

Only that guy in the UK that put 300k miles on his Murci by renting it out. For the rest of us, it’s useless. You’re definitely not doing a good job maintaining your exotic if you have to rely on a brake pad warning system. Now for a soccer mon’s minivan, that’s a different story.

They are especially useless on cars that only get driven 100-1000 miles per year. You should have the wheels off changing brake fluid every couple of years anyway.

Is that really the whole story? Don't you promote products on YouTube that earn you money? Things like...spot free rinse thingies...

Sensors are just 2 wires that break their connection when their pad wears onto the rotors. It’s not really even fair real sensors, like pressure transducers, to call them sensors since there’s nothing too them. But it doesn’t stop manufactures from calling it a sensor and charging a boat load for just 50 cents of wire. You’ll have to pull the wheels off to find which one has failed. A visual inspection should identify the bad one, otherwise a multimeter to check continuity at the “sensor’s” connector will tell you. The sensor pads can get brittle and break after a while or one may have fallen out of place and rubbed away to trigger the light.

So what's your impression of the full Fabspeed exhaust? Rasp? Drone? F1 Sound?

Nice car. What's the full story with the spec? That interior color combo with the exterior color is very unusual. Is that factory? If so, was it special ordered that way? Or was there a color change later? What SV kit is that? Here in the US, it's considered cool to put on an SV kit, but not cool to put on the SV badging unless it's a real SV.

I don't really understand the skid plates. They don't seem strong enough to prevent damage to the bumper in a really hard hit, they lower ground clearance, they get rashes themselves so your car is no longer perfect when they get hit , and now you have a bunch of ugly holes in your bumper which are harder to fix when it comes time to sell than some rash.

Nice! I bet Fabspeed will sell a lot of those exhausts with Paul and Tavarish promoting them. What year is your car? Hard to tell from those pics, but I an guessing 02-05 since you have an oil filler cap on your valve cover.

At $1500/rotor, I couldn't get myself to have an auto parts store jockey turn my rotors. Besides, I have heard that Blanchard grinding is the way to go on high performance brake rotors. If they cut your rotors down enough to eliminate the chamfer on the holes, you'll want to add them back if your rotors originally had them. My 2004 definitely does.

Very satisfying to look at! I repainted everything including the rotors, calipers and dust shields and it’s all stayed looking fresh with the ceramic pads. Did you use the Napa stuff to clean the suspension parts as well? Need to get some of that!

Kinda kills me to see how hard the car youtubers work and invest to get a few hundred thousand views while someone else makes a simple video that pokes fun at an infomercial and gets 45M views.

Just sub'd

You don't think 2wd drive makes much of a difference in the TCS light coming on, or you don't think 2wd makes much of a difference over 4wd?

He already did the expansion tank cap, and we just discussed the thermostat. Based on the info provided, either the engine is generating more heat than normal or the cooling system has less capacity than normal. If the cooling system wasn't keeping pressure, he would be losing coolant and would really overheat as the coolant would boil without the pressure to raise the boiling point, so I don't see a coolant leak as the problem either. It sounds like the fans are working because the coolant temps would drop at speed with the extra airflow if the fans weren't working properly. But it sounds like it's always running a little hot unless the heater is turned on. Plus a fan issue on either side of the car in Atlanta summer heat would cause major overheating. I will say it's possible to have corrosion in the connector for the fan that robs some of the power going to the fans. I know this, because I had that problem on my right radiator fan and had to replace the corroded connector. My left fan just quit working one day, so I have experienced that problem too. At freeway speeds, the coolant temps were good despite those fan problems. Sprite, can you confirm that the coolant temps are still high even while driving at freeway speeds with the batwings open?

Well, if you use the heater core to reduce the temp of coolant flowing through the engine, the thermostat would be exposed to that lower temp coolant and then restrict more of the coolant from circulating through the main radiators to bring the temp back up to whatever temperature the thermostat is set at. The heater core wouldn't be able to keep the engine at 90degC without the help of the main radiators in Atlanta summers. So if I had to wager money, I don't see replacing the thermostat as solving your problem based on the symptoms you described.

I can't really see the sediment in those pics. Can you describe that sediment a little more? Do you think someone could have added a stop leak product? If so, depending on what they added, and how much, they could have semi-clogged one or both of the radiators. Don't put it past someone selling a used car to drop some of that in instead of fixing a small leak. The fact that turning on the heater brings down the temp means that adding more cooling capacity solves the issue, so I am betting the new thermostat won't solve your problem. If the thermostat was opening at the wrong temp, it would keep the engine at that wrong temp despite using the heater for extra cooling. You might also check that nothing got sucked into the air intakes that could be reducing your airflow across the radiators, like a plastic shopping bag. Probably not the problem, but worth an easy check. It's good that you don't have a head gasket issue. An engine can also create more heat if it's running lean, the ignition timing is off, or if the valve timing or valve clearances are off. How many miles on your engine?

Is that the brightest gold they have? That dip looks almost like a bronze, and I think black looks better with a brighter gold.

Not exactly sure, but they are referring to the paneling around that area. It may be the wheel arch liners in the rear wheels closest to the back of the car, or there are also some panels along the side of the exhaust system. I didn't bother with the drain plugs, I just pulled the hoses from the bottom of the radiators and then stuck the hose from my 7qt suction brake bleeder into the radiators to suck out any coolant left at the bottom. I was changing all the coolant hoses anyway, so that was easiest. I also got a lot more coolant out of the engine by putting the suction tube down the entry of the water pump. The best way to refill the Murci (and just about any car) is a vacuum filler. You can get them on Amazon. It's not that necessary because the coolant system has self bleeding plumbing (the small hoses), but it goes a lot easier. When doing it without a vacuum filler, I had to wait for the system to burp itself before I could get all the coolant into it. I just let it sit for a while and I was then able to fill it up.

I think it’s more a problem with a lack of info sharing and a lack of knowledgeable mechanics. The Murci is actually incredibly simple compared to current cars. I am sure a knowledgeable mechanic with the full Lambo software could very quickly solve your issue, so I wouldn’t jump to blaming the car.