del mar

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/460002500-heating-air-conditioning-control-mg-rover-serie-45-1029240-/353301037167?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjw6NmHBhD2ARIsAI3hrM2IjlcEgXwd21OYL6-FWP5uo76ODuw15irQ5PW5722tDdRgwJtpygsaApn5EALw_wcB

Buy a new one..... They were use in Rover 45 cars, and you can pick up an entire car for peanuts !! You do see them on ebay for about £50 - the unit not the car

i replaced my ducting aswell. Steering wheel straight ahead, i fitted the hose. Then turned the wheel and the hose fell off as it was stretched too much - DOH !!! There was then not enough hose to do the other side !!

I have always used the middle of the frame at the back, with the handle down i can slide the jack straight underneath the exhausts and jack it up. I can only get the half movement out of the handle but that is enough. Then put the axle stands on the corners of the frame, they are reinforced in that area.

thanks - that shows no wire connected to the threaded rod/bolt.

if you get a chance over the festive period could somebody squeeze their hand down the back and have feel to see if anything is connected to it ? thanks

It’s back on the car !! On an earlier thread on it, there was the suggestion “ pull the heat shields” as if that is an easy job !!!! the belt has 6 ridges and 7 grooves the steering 6/7 and the air con 7/8. I have left the groove nearest the engine on the air con pulley free. car starts and dash shows 14.6v so all is well. I will need to get the belt correctly tensioned, using the harmonic tool, this can be done with heat shields back in place. before I screw it all together should there be something on the end of this ? I can’t find a stray wire that needs a home, nor can I remember if it had a wire on it. thanks

Belt was a pig, i managed to get it so that it was only around the power steering pump pulley. i was a case of folding and pushing it between the pulley and the engine a gap about the same size as the belt !! Not sure how it goes back in, but i will fit it before the alternator goes back in. The belt that came out was a Contitech 7pk 1570. About £15 on ebay or £100 from lamborghini. there was a spare in the car being 1568 and Eurospares list an after market part as 1575. For those that have changed theirs what length did you use ? thanks

Bearings are out 83B812 6203LHA Regulator Bosch 1197 311 236

in the UK it appears to cross reference with the original Ford Galaxy / VW Sharan / Seat Alhambra, in the UK. Bosch 021 903 025C 0123 520 002 14v 150amp

Evening, As nobody had responded i thought i would just go for it. It took 2 hours to get it free from the car and then another 30 mins to get it out of the engine bay !! Remove the rear deck lid - selection of 10mm bolts. Two connectors for the motors that lift the spoiler, and three 10mm bolt to remove the lock. Two 10mm and four 8mm bolts on the heat shield. it is all reasonably easy to see but there was a lot of leaning over to get at it. The car has a tubi exhaust with no secondary cats so there was more space to work, the bolts didnt look as if they were coming undone ! You need to fully undo and remove the adjuster bolt 13mm Remove the pinch bolt slider bracket - 13mm Remove both securing bolts again 13mm the heads are at the front, which would be much easier it the heads were facing the rear of the car. as you push the alternator to the left the belt will come off the pulley, still not sure how it comes off but i will tackle that tomorrow, I had to rock it and use some leverage to the starter out as it is a tight fit on the brackets. Once loose the plastic cover / cooling duct is held on with three T15 bits, these where tricky to see when it was in place. i will change these for screw driver of allen head bolts. Then it was a case of wriggling it around and trying to see where it would come out. The only place i could get it out was to drop it down rest it on the left drive shaft heat shield, then disconnect the handbrake cable and feed it out backwards. I will strip it tomorrow and see what size the bearings are. It wasn't hard, harder than the starter motor it just took longer as it was harder to get at. I need a new cooling hose, as mine was ripped, but i am not pay £200 for a hose ! del

Evening, i am in quarantine again so i thought i would take mine out to change the noisy bearings. I searched but couldn't find a thread on it, has anybody done it ? Any tips would be appreciated mine is a 6.2. I would rank removal of the starter motor as a 4/10, although getting the top bolt back on a 9/10. The car is on a lift so i can get access to the underneath easily. Thanks Del

Morning, I know it is a youtuber and he makes money from making interesting / controversial videos, but would this reall be such a bad idea to allow access to gear box bolts / sensors ? A couple of well placed holes should cause any structural damage / weakness and if "repaired or covered up" would it be an issue ? Thanks Del

I’ve done this, but a while ago. yoi need to remove the astray and armrest first to get at it and then I think it lifts up. the eurospares parts diagrams should show you how these bits are fixed. sorry I can’t be more helpful

The entire binnacle is only held on at three points these two thumb screws and a metal bracket at the back - ie the nearest the screen. https://www.eurospares.co.uk/parts/lamborghini/murcielago-2003/interiors/dashboard-instruments-19473 The thumb screws connector on part 37 and the metal bracket is part 19. If you are saying the instrument are loose, once you get the entire binnacle out it is easy to see how it is screwed in.

Afternoon, There are a handful of screws on the bottom of the steering column cowl, remove these and take the cowl off. If you lower the steering column and pull the wheel toward yourself. There are two twisting thumb screws one either side of the binnacle at the bottom, these twist off. Make sure you dont drop them...... The front should lift up and then gently pull it towards you. If i remember there is one main connection on the back of the instruments, but be careful in removing the harness to the 4 buttons on the binnacle. Del

Maybe, but I have nothing to compare it to. the heat used to make the number plate fall off !! the car is 16/17 years old, has 50,000 miles on it, a combination of weather and heat ?

Afternoon, anything here that might work ? https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=68 del

They may well have been MM originally, but they sold me Champion Branded ones last year.

A great find, I spend two weeks trying to cross reference the code number on them in the UK and came up with nothing, in the end i bought 12 from Lamborghini they came with "Champion" written on them. Lamborghini do not make coils, they will buy them in from the cheapest supplier they can and then mark them up accordingly, they have done for years. But i would not knock Whiteout or anybody else that has tried to offer an alternative to the over priced Lamborghini offerings.

Started first time !!

Refitting was harder than removal ! I have an inspection camera and could see the top bolt clearly, i could get the nut on the end of the bolt quite easily but struggled to get it to bite. the nut is held perfectly square in the socket and the angle of the bolt against the angle i could get the socket at meant they never quite mated together. In the end i had to put spring washer in the socket under the nut so that is sat at a slight angle in the socket. It fitted first time and was done using one to two clicks on the ratchet at a time. Rather than start it i found myself helping a neighbour with his Toyota MMT gearbox - gearbox actuator and clutch actuator aren't work so need to come out. Will try again this evening

Starter was fine but New solenoid required, all fixed £75. battery is charged I am expecting a roar first turn of the key tomorrow !!

It’s off- I did have to remove the rear wheel arch liners. some scary bits under there, any bit that is near the exhaust seems to have suffered.

I started on this yesterday. If you remove the radiator grills and grill above the rear number plate. Then there is a "plastic liner" on each side which seperates the exhaust area from the radiator area, 3 X 10 mm bolts. You can then see the 4 X 13mm bolts either side of the number plate. There are 2 X 8mm bolts that connect the edge of the bumper to the body in each wheel well. There is 1 X 13mm bolt that connects the side of the bumper to the body. Could i find the 8mm spanner....... I have ordered some and some anti rust treatment / paint.