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I purchased the size that correlated with my current ducts. They were just a tad larger but have been holding up well. I haven't driven the car too much but did take the week of car week in Monterey and maybe 600 miles or so. I would need to verify what I ordered from them to know or remember what size I used. Once the wheel is off and the inner wheel liner you can remove and measure the ducting where they clamp to fairly easy to ensure you're getting the correct size. Just remember to ensure their long enough for the job.

Thank you Destructo. Still learning how to edit and add things "like text" but thanks for the input. More to come as I dive deeper into the Murci down the road. Appreciate the compliments.

First off thanks for watching. As I start this YouTube channel "Double B's Garage" I am trying to bring content which will help others when tackling some of the same things I've been working on or fixing along with creating interesting videos. Thanks to Stimpy on here for some of his help with the alternator and cross reference lists already created by others on this forum before me. Appreciate this community! Cheers and I hope you enjoy, Bryan

Stimpy, we need to chat! I am in the middle of this now on my LP640. I just replaced the hoses for my PS pump so removing them wasn't in the cards but at least their soft enough and I can suck all the fluid out of the reservoir first to reduce what spills out upon removal down at the pump side. I will PM you but questions I have.. - Did you end up removing the cross over pipe for coolant? If so, was it necessary? - Did you have to loosen the catalytic converter on the LH side next to that bracket? The heat shield can't come off as one bolt is right up against that exhaust. We thought about cutting it and slotting it for later ease of access but won't be able to do this anyways until it's out.. Did the removal of the entire bracket help to eliminate the need to loosen the exhaust? - Does the PS pump slide out straight back out of that coupler (almost looks like a rag joint that you would find on a steering shaft) once the bracket was loosened and slid backwards? - I notice the belt rides up and over that PS pulley but more as a guide is it rides not he back side (non grooved) of the belt. Was that a pain to get back in? - Were you also coming in from the bottom with a long wrench to loosen the tensioner for the belt? Thanks for any help! Trying to get this fixed (I keep blowing fuses) before Monterey... Ugh

Stimpy, we need to chat! I am in the middle of this now on my LP640. I just replaced the hoses for my PS pump so removing them wasn't in the cards but at least their soft enough and I can suck all the fluid out of the reservoir first to reduce what spills out upon removal down at the pump side. I will PM you but questions I have.. - Did you end up removing the cross over pipe for coolant? If so, was it necessary? - Did you have to loosen the catalytic converter on the LH side next to that bracket? The heat shield can't come off as one bolt is right up against that exhaust. We thought about cutting it and slotting it for later ease of access but won't be able to do this anyways until it's out.. Did the removal of the entire bracket help to eliminate the need to loosen the exhaust? - Does the PS pump slide out straight back out of that coupler (almost looks like a rag joint that you would find on a steering shaft) once the bracket was loosened and slid backwards? - I notice the belt rides up and over that PS pulley but more as a guide is it rides not he back side (non grooved) of the belt. Was that a pain to get back in? - Were you also coming in from the bottom with a long wrench to loosen the tensioner for the belt? Thanks for any help! Trying to get this fixed (I keep blowing fuses) before Monterey... Ugh

I ended up having them made using a water jet. They were made to the exact specs of the previous ones using identical ABS and then I routered the edges to taper just like the previous version. I called and spoke with no less than 5 companies that either looked similar or didn't have a picture and couldn't find out who made them. I did make 4 other sets so if someone wants a set let me know and I will sell at a reasonable price. The only thing you will need to do it buy tapered SS machines screws and the threaded inserts so you can make holes where they need to be mounted. All holes in skid plates are already there and they fit very well as you can see in the pics. Thanks to those who helped.

Thanks Phil!. I will continue to contribute then try again..

I ordered I think 7' then cut in half.. once they were installed and steering was good I had about 4 inches up front that I trimmed before putting the bumper on. Since their so inexpensive I purchased longer in case I messed. Same thing with alternator pipe.

I purchased from AircraftSpruce. Here is the link. I did my brake ducting and the alternator vent line. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI--7y7JTZ8QIVtBrnCh33qABoEAAYASAAEgKcoPD_BwE Here are some pics of loose install before buttoning up after paint.

I have a carbon steering wheel I'm trying to sell from my 08' Murci but it won't let me list in here on the classifieds.. do I need to join or pay somehow to do so? Thank you! Bryan

I literally just did this... I tried all options (except the one above) and finally with a commercial steamer it worked out well. Mine was yellowing and I used my buddies steamer from his tint shop. Steam and slowly pulling (too fast you lose the adhesive which stays on the paint... not good) it worked. My knuckles and fingers were sore afterwards as 70% of the car was removed. PM me if you need any further details and I'd be happy to chat. Cheers, Bryan

Thanks Double. Unfortunately they are showing "unavailable" from Lamborghini at the moment. Hoping this is just temporary.

Thanks Jeff

Okay thanks for info pmdw1. Trying to figure out if its worth removing or leaving... having trouble finding one.

I am trying to remove this cowl cover my 08' Murci and having trouble with seeing the best way to remove. Once the wiper is removed and the two torx bit screws under trunk lid) it's still fairly tight as it nears each side of the car between the window and the front fenders. Is it glued/epoxied on to the windscreen and must be removed with fish line or some other cutting tool where the last 12"-18" lay against the window? I can take a pic but here are a few links showing what it looks like. https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part/433452/lamborghini/417819413/lhd-cover.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/112474690996?epid=752779466&hash=item1a300395b4:g:ZKkAAOSwBuVe5N7S https://www.bullstuff.com/plenum-panel-cover-pn-417819413#.YKwuUy2cY6U Thanks for any help! If you know of a bodyshop that has worked on or painted a Murci they could also help..

I am in the process of having new skid plates made from these templates. They will be the same material and cut on a water jet. I will be purchasing a 5'x10' sheet and can run several additional sets on these. My questions are below to confirm if it's worth it. 1) Were these a factory option for Murci's and if so which years have this style? Mine is an 08' LP640. 2) There are threaded inserts in the bumper that allen bolts thread into to hold these in place. They would be identical to align with the same holes. 3) I can't seem to find the item number (if factory) on where this brand was purchased from which is why I'm going the route of remaking for myself and others if needed. Thanks for any help and have a look at the pics and let me know. PS. There is one set on eBay right now and they are asking $1,200... crazy expensive. They would accept $600 but I still think a used scraped up set isn't worth that much so here we go! Cheers, Bryan

sprite it's so easy to remove the mirrors doing both makes sense for sure. Very easy process and this thread was super helpful for a DIY. Best of luck. With you being in Gruven's back yard it will be quicker for you!

Update: Here is and IMO the easiest way to do this... Thanks for the info on removing and disassembling the mirror... made it much easier to figure out. 1) Remove and disassemble the mirrors to remove the motor as mentioned in this thread. 2) Go on to Gruven and purchase the $229.99 (x2) price for left and right mirrors using the link in this thread. Titled on Gruven is (Strengthened Spur Gear for 2007+ GM Trucks Folding Mirror Assembly). 3) Email [email protected] and include your invoice number so they don't ship the actual parts to you and inform him what car you are working on. 4) Ship Paul the motors and include a copy of your invoice in the box. When he received these he turned them around the same day!! 5) He will modify your motors by removing the noise capacitor (which only will show noise in the stereo on AM radio... so nothing to worry about here) and also installing the brass gear. The benefits are 1) you won't have a stronger motor which could damage something in the long run, 2) you won't have any issues with fuses blowing due to higher amperage draw and 3) a solution which should last the life of the car. Since our mirrors only fold partially the movement (from A-B) isn't that far and we are not in a rush to make them move faster... just be more reliable. 6) (please read A & B before going to #7) Motors will arrive with a "P" and "D" labeled on them. These are for Passenger and Driver respectively so be sure you install them in the correct housing. Reinstall the motors. My holes were slightly off since they removed the motor from it's outer shell. I just used a pic or small screw driver to help locate the holes once back in the mirror housing to pass the 3 longer bolts back through. A) Don't forget the "horse shoe" looking metal threaded ring which needs to be slid onto the motor before installing back in housing. You will need to orientate the metal (threaded) horseshoe ring in the correct position so that when you reassemble both mirrors haves the screws will locate themselves and grab the threads. I used a dab of superglue to hold them below the appropriate holes after putting the other mirror 1/2 up to verify orientation. Since there are multiple holes be sure to do this correctly otherwise you will need to dissemble again and start over on this part. This is what the machine screws thread into as the motor only has holes, not threaded holes. In addition the screws won't be long enough to engage the horseshoe without this process. Made it super simple and only took a couple minutes to prep with super glue.. only a dab. Once you get all 4 screws started you are basically done... 7) finish reassembling the mirrors and install glass. They should be oriented all the way out (like when driving). If your glass broke when removing (one of mine did) you can order through Glen at AMHParts. Their around $140 each and the newer style have plastic backing so the they are much stiffer and won't bend/brake when removing down the road. Clearly Lamborghini noticed a need there and changed the design. My 08' had the older version still so unsure if plastic backed glass is in the 09' or 10' models or something that came later after production was over. Now your all set! This is the only way I would do it and much easier than fiddling with the brass gears and worrying about them lining up correctly, and not to mention for the cost... you can't go wrong, let the experts do it! Thanks for all the information in this thread before as it made this job much easier. Hopefully this update will help someone in the near future and beyond do this themselves.. Cheers, Bryan

So modifying you are stating change gear as directed ourselves or have Gruven do it for us and send them our motors with old gears attached? What was lead time (if you sent them yours) to get completed? Thanks for all your work early on and for updating this thread when able!

How much did raging bull charge you? Did you bring in car, mirrors off car or just the motor? Thanks for the info.

Thanks for all the efforts here. Great info!! And based off your input I'm thinking the Zaino could work on left over glue from PPF.. Will give it a shot!

Yes, it will be full PPF once done and paint is cured. The separate pieces will be baked so they will be ready for PPF a few days after paint once cut and buffed. Thanks for there comments!! I just finished this project so started on the Murci... this one I will be keeping for awhile!

I wanted to update as I was able to get it off. If anyone else ever needs to do this then this update will help tremendously. To get the oil cooler out of the way (without any or very little oil loss) you can remove the upper (36mm) nut on the oil line completely. Since this line comes from the top of the tank it won't loose much oil at all (maybe an once). Then loosen (just crack it loose) the lower line. This will allow the tank to spin on the oil line without trying to twist it (you won't lose any oil from this line/fitting area) and will allow you to swing it down out of the way. Once you spin it down the cooler itself will start to leak from the upper port but if you are ready to remove the side skirt then this will only take 30 seconds or so and won't be in your way and can easily be tightened back up to the upper line. Since most of the mounting points are in the side skirt I used zip ties in 3 locations to hang the tank while the car heads to get the imperfections addressed in the paint. It's had a few stone chips over the years and previous owners haven't cared too much for the side skirts while entering driveways, parking lots, etc.. So, she will be perfect once completed. Thanks for looking!