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del mar2

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  1. Swapped any nuts and bolts for SS ones and have rubbed down some more of the sub frame and treated and painted it. I will wrap the exhausts with heat wrap to try and offer some protection.
  2. diff goes back in reasonably easy,, alternator back in and belt tensioned. Waiting on some powder coated bits and the exhaust clamp studs removed then it geos back together.
  3. For those in the UK, i have ordered the rear diff seals from Barnwell Output seals AS60-80-8VIT29 If you remove the flange to change them, the large "O" ring is BS247 VIT 75 FPM The input seal is A48-72-10VIT09. £30 for them, i wont actually replace the input seal as it is bone dry there, but the output ones were leaking.
  4. Prop came out last night. The gearbox end bearing has to be pulled through the central support bracket and then they come straight out the diff end hole. There is a little grub screw holding the end cap in place needs to be removed so the bearing will fit through the hole. New bearings fitted and back in - 30 mins, just took 10 hours to get there !! Will take some pictures later. I am getting bits powder coated whilst it is apart. The exhaust mounts are really rusty, i have managed to split 3 and will get the springs powder coated but the 4th doesnt want to come apart. Other than paying lamborghini hundreds for a couple of springs and a long bolt, are there any alternative offerings ?? thanks
  5. That little dust cap retails for.... $134 !!!!
  6. it is out ! If you could take the crank pully off that would make is a little easier to pull out but with a bit of twisting and jacking of the engine mount it pulled back far enough to drop it through the frame. There is noticable play on the prop as it wobbles against missing ball bearings The end of the prop takes an 8mm bolt, so need a slide hammer and a better set of circlip pliers. There is a plastic cap on the front of the engine casing that the rear diff attaches to. The prop and bearings wont pull through that. I will probably have to cut it in half and then try to silicone it back into place. I will also try to make covers for the middle bearing as that is exposed to all manner of road debris. Refitting appears to be, Fit the bearing into the gearbox housing slide the prop in and then push the bearing down the shaft into the middle support, i am not very confident that there is space mind. I am away this weekend so will take a rest from doing it,
  7. what actually fails on these ? They are ridiculously expensive for what they are and bearings can be replaced.
  8. Done, Who is the man ...!!!! The bottom nuts; The last picture shows three of them. The bottom nut is easy reached to put a socket on it The middle one, you can get a normal open 17mm ring spanner on it. The top nut is a ****er. I had to remove the bolt holding the rear diff support mount and then the RHS engine mount bolt. The LHS id blocked by a nice looking after market oil line, and i couldn't get the socket on it. I could then jack up the RHS of the engine about half an inch which allowed me to feed a short 17mm socket and swivel joint over the frame support. No funny noises so that minor lift didn't appear to damage anything. They are all tight to crack off but once loose come off reasonably easy. There is a 4th nut on the bottom but you can get a socket on that. There is one behind the crank pully, access is tight but you can get a socket and swivel joint on it through the fins on the diff. There is one on the other side at the same level. Trickier as although you can get a socket on it the heat shielding makes access tricky. 17mm socket / swivel joint and a couple of short extensions. The ones on the top either 17mm spanner or socket and swivel joint. Getting the cat out would have made life easier but not essential. I am hoping that once the diff support bracket is off the diff should pull back and off. Great feeling but still haven't actually got to the bit i need to replace !! Bloody cars.
  9. this is going to save the day ! Impact wiggle joint and an impact gun. CASOMAN 3-Piece Impact Universal Joint Socket Swivel Set - Ball Spring Design 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Drive, CR-MO, U-Joint Sockets Swivel : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
  10. Not sure what has gone wrong with formatting but you get the idea !!!
  11. Alternator is out, 10 min job when the exhaust is out, it took me 2 hours with it in !! Drive shafts are disconnected Various heat shields are out of the way. I just cant get to the RHS cat clamp nuts to cut them off it would be helpful if it was out of the way, perhaps i need a dremmel. I can see / touch all of the bolts holding the diff to the engine casing. There is one missing - the hardest to get at one by the crank pully so that is a result. and there are a couple of nuts missing from the rhs diff flange. I will change the seals on the diff whilst it is out. The top ones are easy to get at, the bottom outside 2 are loose the bottom middle two look impossible to get off. I tried with a uj connector and i felt that was going to snap, i bent a cheap extension bar, Any tips on to get them ? Even out of the car the look difficult to get at. Thanks
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