del mar2

Morning, I need a TPS for a Maserati Ghibli, which is a Weber PF10, the Diablo also uses a PF10, but some appear to rotate clockwise and some anticlockwise. Could anybody check please ? Looking at the back of the sensor, the bit the rod sticks into, which way does it rotates. The Maserati one appears to rotate clockwise, and they have none left, and none of the breakers / experts have one Mike Pullen felt that the Diablo one was the same as the Lancia Delta, but the Lancia uses a PF09, which i think rotates anticlockwise. Thank you

just to finish this, after waiting weeks i now have the exhausts springs back from the powder coaters - they have used a heat resistant powder coat so hopefully offer some protection. they have come up quite well ! i might drive it this month.... thanks for your help

Swapped any nuts and bolts for SS ones and have rubbed down some more of the sub frame and treated and painted it. I will wrap the exhausts with heat wrap to try and offer some protection.

diff goes back in reasonably easy,, alternator back in and belt tensioned. Waiting on some powder coated bits and the exhaust clamp studs removed then it geos back together.

For those in the UK, i have ordered the rear diff seals from Barnwell Output seals AS60-80-8VIT29 If you remove the flange to change them, the large "O" ring is BS247 VIT 75 FPM The input seal is A48-72-10VIT09. £30 for them, i wont actually replace the input seal as it is bone dry there, but the output ones were leaking.

Prop came out last night. The gearbox end bearing has to be pulled through the central support bracket and then they come straight out the diff end hole. There is a little grub screw holding the end cap in place needs to be removed so the bearing will fit through the hole. New bearings fitted and back in - 30 mins, just took 10 hours to get there !! Will take some pictures later. I am getting bits powder coated whilst it is apart. The exhaust mounts are really rusty, i have managed to split 3 and will get the springs powder coated but the 4th doesnt want to come apart. Other than paying lamborghini hundreds for a couple of springs and a long bolt, are there any alternative offerings ?? thanks

That little dust cap retails for.... $134 !!!!

it is out ! If you could take the crank pully off that would make is a little easier to pull out but with a bit of twisting and jacking of the engine mount it pulled back far enough to drop it through the frame. There is noticable play on the prop as it wobbles against missing ball bearings The end of the prop takes an 8mm bolt, so need a slide hammer and a better set of circlip pliers. There is a plastic cap on the front of the engine casing that the rear diff attaches to. The prop and bearings wont pull through that. I will probably have to cut it in half and then try to silicone it back into place. I will also try to make covers for the middle bearing as that is exposed to all manner of road debris. Refitting appears to be, Fit the bearing into the gearbox housing slide the prop in and then push the bearing down the shaft into the middle support, i am not very confident that there is space mind. I am away this weekend so will take a rest from doing it,

they dont look overly complicated.

what actually fails on these ? They are ridiculously expensive for what they are and bearings can be replaced.

Done, Who is the man ...!!!! The bottom nuts; The last picture shows three of them. The bottom nut is easy reached to put a socket on it The middle one, you can get a normal open 17mm ring spanner on it. The top nut is a ****er. I had to remove the bolt holding the rear diff support mount and then the RHS engine mount bolt. The LHS id blocked by a nice looking after market oil line, and i couldn't get the socket on it. I could then jack up the RHS of the engine about half an inch which allowed me to feed a short 17mm socket and swivel joint over the frame support. No funny noises so that minor lift didn't appear to damage anything. They are all tight to crack off but once loose come off reasonably easy. There is a 4th nut on the bottom but you can get a socket on that. There is one behind the crank pully, access is tight but you can get a socket and swivel joint on it through the fins on the diff. There is one on the other side at the same level. Trickier as although you can get a socket on it the heat shielding makes access tricky. 17mm socket / swivel joint and a couple of short extensions. The ones on the top either 17mm spanner or socket and swivel joint. Getting the cat out would have made life easier but not essential. I am hoping that once the diff support bracket is off the diff should pull back and off. Great feeling but still haven't actually got to the bit i need to replace !! Bloody cars.

this is going to save the day ! Impact wiggle joint and an impact gun. CASOMAN 3-Piece Impact Universal Joint Socket Swivel Set - Ball Spring Design 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Drive, CR-MO, U-Joint Sockets Swivel : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Not sure what has gone wrong with formatting but you get the idea !!!

Alternator is out, 10 min job when the exhaust is out, it took me 2 hours with it in !! Drive shafts are disconnected Various heat shields are out of the way. I just cant get to the RHS cat clamp nuts to cut them off it would be helpful if it was out of the way, perhaps i need a dremmel. I can see / touch all of the bolts holding the diff to the engine casing. There is one missing - the hardest to get at one by the crank pully so that is a result. and there are a couple of nuts missing from the rhs diff flange. I will change the seals on the diff whilst it is out. The top ones are easy to get at, the bottom outside 2 are loose the bottom middle two look impossible to get off. I tried with a uj connector and i felt that was going to snap, i bent a cheap extension bar, Any tips on to get them ? Even out of the car the look difficult to get at. Thanks

3 hours in. I ended up cutting most of the exhaust bolts off. The studs in all 4 clamps need removing, I am not paying £500 each for a brand new one !! the rusty bar in the middle is the anti roll bar, the heat just destroys every painted surface !!

2 hours in. Rear deck lid off and silencer out, i have a Tubi one with no secondary cats. If i remove the bypass pipe from the LHS of the engine (it loops up and over to the right ) i should be able to touch all the diff bolts. Alternator and bracket coming off will make it easier. Will post pictures as i go

i have changed the starter and alternator. Where you you gauge this as an equivalent job, obviously it will take longer but more difficult ?? thanks

Morning, I did poke around a bit more last night, and that seems a good shout. Rear deck lid exhaust Alternator out again !! This should get me good access to the top bolts on the diff. Eurospares list the bearings as £38 plus delivery plus tax, £100 for the pair The bearings are SKF as per the above video £24 each ! I will need a slide hammer and internal bearing puller to get the gear box side out. Might start this evening. thanks

Bugger !!! The middle one, which does look a bit exposed and vulnerable, has fallen apart. I did think the was some vibration. I don't have the space or tools to pull the engine so i am hoping the rear diff can come out and then slide the prop out and replace the bearings that way. Whiteout has commented that the rear diff can come out with the engine still in place, has anybody actually done this and have any tips ? Some of the bolts attaching the diff to the engine look bloody hard to get at. Murcielago Engine Driveshaft Bearing Replacement Video | Lamborghini Talk (another board.com) 30 mins on the bench or 10 hours in the car !!! I have a lift so can get underneath the car. thank you

Any new / cheaper products are always welcome, somebody has to be first and over time people will always make cheaper alternatives, that is life. I don't see why a gear box mount whether Reid or another supplier would produce vibrations ? The Carbonio solution is quite clever though, but appears to be lose 80lbs vs 150lbs from a gear box mounted system. Yes the bracket that replaces the diff has some weight, but what does the torque tube weigh !!

Just to bring this thread to a close... Grange (Tunbridge Wells Lamborghini) , couldn't even find the part number, let alone get a price. HR Owen could find a price for the Alarm Fob, but then wanted to charge £200 to code it to the car, plus the £50 in fuel to get it them !!! Yet a man that lives thousands of miles away managed to order one and post it to me for less !! It maybe a cheap and nasty looking bit of plastic, but it works !! Thank you Glen

My early 6.2 belt was a Contitech 7pk 1570. That is what came off, there was a spare in the car that was a little smaller 1568 and Eurospares offered one that was a little bit longer 1575 !! cost £15