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Clutch Pedeal to Floor

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Have been thru forum looking for these symtpoms, but didn't see exactly these:

- clutch pedal goes to floor and stays

- no apparent leaks up front and resovoir is full

- although slave has some fluid on rubber sleeve, no apparent 'puddle under the car'

- the steel clutch bracket that appears to failure regularly has not failed, and is in place as is the plunger in slave cylinder

- when moving clutch pedal from normal aft position to floor (where it stays) and then manually pulling back, there is no movement by plunger in slave -- plunger always stays in same place despite movement of clutch pedal

 

- how do I determine if the problem is the master or slave

- what is the best way to get either or both out

-- for salve, c-clip first or hose to slave first

-- once the pluger is disconnected from bracket, does slave just slide out

 

Thanx

Mark

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- when moving clutch pedal from normal aft position to floor (where it stays) and then manually pulling back, there is no movement by plunger in slave -- plunger always stays in same place despite movement of clutch pedal

Try doing this repeatedly (a lot of times), pumping it in and out with your hands. I had a similar thing happen to an Audi, and doing this actually solved the problem. I have no idea if the Diablo clutch works the same way, but it's worth a try :)

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My guess is the master. I don't know how to remove it, but I've done two slaves. I remove the clutch rod connection first, then the hose fitting. The snap ring is by far the hardest part. It'll take numerous try's to get it on and off. You'll need a screwdriver to slide in there and catch it before it snaps back then walk it around in a prying motion to slide it off. You'll feel like celebrating once you get it, but not too much cuz it's got to go back on. You can reuse it if you don't tear it up. If the cylinder isn't frozen, it'll slide right out. If it is, then it's large channel locks, liquid wrench, a small hammer, and lots of cursing.

 

My slave failure symptom was I couldn't change gears with the engine running but the pedal was good. They don't have to leak externally. It sounds like the master isn't doing the job to me. Let us know.

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Got the car up on all 4 corners. Getting slave out was a challenge. Despite buying snap ring tool, both the snap ring and the slave cylinder were not going to budge. Eventually ended up dremelling the snap ring off (yes, destroyed the slave but I was tossing it anyway), getting up in the oil filter compartment and disconnecting the clutch slave hose so you can get it off the slave, and then pounding in multiple ways (with colorful commentary) after letting the salve sit on Kroll lubricant. Evnetually saw I needed to repalce the 2 slave shims (cost more than the salve so be careful) as well. Since I've got it out, will get steel fluid line to slave made before reassmbly.

 

Thanx for the help

Mark

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I have this one.

 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professiona...mp;blockType=G1

 

But it'll still keep popping off. Just get the best one you can find. Cheap is no good for this job. You need to get it started, and then use needle nose pliers, and a screw driver, and just walk it around until it snaps back on.

 

BTW, if you damage the ring you can get a new one from ACE hardware.

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Finally got it. Clearly, the snap ring just has to be worked until you can get at least part of it to catch. Slave now works as advertised. Thanx for the help.

 

Rock on! Slave/masters have been posted on here quite a few times (at least I recall seeing it several times). You may already know, but in case anyone else comes across the thread... As with any hydraulic system the brake fluid collects moisture and with time the seals go out, cracks, hardening, shrinking, etc. Keeping them flushed often will help extend that and keep the moisture out of the system. Be aware that usually if a slave hydraulic goes out that the master may be something to keep an eye on in the future since it is likely just as old as the slave was, meaning the seals are going to be just as old. I would much rather a slave go out than a master, if the fluid leaks on a master it can make a mess on the wall where it bolts to, or sometimes even puke up on your interior, and it's not good for paint. Might keep an eye on the boot every so often on the master, if it shows any signs of looking "wet"...

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Someone mentioned $250. I paid $39 for a complete brand new slave cylinder for my 1998 Diablo Roadster from the local dealersdhip. It made no sense to rebuild the old.

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