Engine Out and Refresh!

Here are a couple pics of the headers, AC compressor, bracket, and half shaft covers out. As well as some engine bay shots with all this removed. I did find out after taking the headers off that I was missing one of the hoist connections on the drivers side. So Chad is going to send me one.

 

I'm also told that a 3 ton is needed to pull the engine. Had thought I could get away with using a 2 ton but now that seems risky and a 3 ton is harder to find. I can buy one for a little over $400 though so I may do that.

May I recommend capping the AC compressor ports and the lines on the car to keep moisture, dust and bits out of your AC system.

I feel like a total pussy, I don't even change my own oil.

I will get that done soon. Was too dark last night.

Here are a few more pictures

 

This is the driver's side of the block. The upper left is the throttle cable which has a weird connector with a pin and you also have to flip out the connector and remove the pin from the rear bar on the Intake Manifold. I should also note that when I took off the intake manifold, I had to cut a zip tie that was holding the wiring in place on the firewall as it kept getting in the way. You can also see in this picture way down towards the bottom of the block is the main cable to the starter. I removed this from underneath and disconnected from the starter but there is an attached ground wire that I still need to remove.

 

The next picture is a similar cable that runs from the battery to the engine block. I could not see too well at the bottom of the engine block so I just removed this from the battery (negative terminal cabling).

 

Just the rear jacked up on the stands. I need to drop it and lift the front so I can pull off the panel under the transmission and drop the shifter housing. I'm not sure I will need to jack the rear up again before I take the engine out.

 

(Used) condoms covering the open pipes

 

This is up inside the oil filter area and the cable on the left is the fluid cable to the clutch slave. I am disconnecting the cable from the slave but it is a pain because when you turn it wants to spin back tight. The large cable to the right is the cable mentioned earlier to the starter which I disconnected at the starter.

 

This is the view from the driver's side corner of the engine and you can see the previously mentioned cable has been disconnected to the starter, while the small cable still need to be disconnected (clutch slave line is not in view).

 

Lastly, I had never noticed these engine mount bolts on either side of the block.

 

 

This weekend is supposed to be nice so I'm going to get the shifter housing dropped, disconnect the half shafts, disconnect the clutch slave, disconnect that small wire to the starter, and disconnect the final coolant hose on the rear of the block. If I end up getting the hoist this weekend and the lifting ring I was missing, then I may undo the mounting bolts and pull the engine this weekend but i'm in no rush.

Chipster;

Great progress. Hope the lift goes well. If you have a harbor freight around your way, they are having a sale on moving blankets. Cheap enough to be disposable yet stacking these makes for great body panel protection.

My roommate has some nice carpet stuff he uses haha. He is pretty OCD about that stuff and he won't care if I use them. And i'm insanely careful when i'm touching the car.

Rebuild your starter motor. Replacing a failed starter is an engine out procedure, although I have known people who have said they have done it without removing the engine. A good lambo tech will tell you it is just easier to pull the motor/driveline than to Jimmy jack around making a enough room to access and R and R the starter.

 

Enjoying this thread! Thanks!

Rebuild your starter motor. Replacing a failed starter is an engine out procedure, although I have known people who have said they have done it without removing the engine. A good lambo tech will tell you it is just easier to pull the motor/driveline than to Jimmy jack around making a enough room to access and R and R the starter.

 

Enjoying this thread! Thanks!

 

 

That is definitely on the list! The car was starting but it would crank for a few seconds before catch lately.

 

 

Just got the hose to the clutch slave disconnected (what a bitch). And the final cable to the starter. Going to drop the shifter housing now.

 

 

Does anyone know what size allen head is needed for the half shaft bolts?? I don't appear to have anywhere near the right size. So I want to run out and grab that shortly.

That is definitely on the list! The car was starting but it would crank for a few seconds before catch lately.

 

 

Just got the hose to the clutch slave disconnected (what a bitch). And the final cable to the starter. Going to drop the shifter housing now.

 

 

Does anyone know what size allen head is needed for the half shaft bolts?? I don't appear to have anywhere near the right size. So I want to run out and grab that shortly.

 

Look at your ring gear closely for missing teeth/fractures.

Look at your ring gear closely for missing teeth/fractures.

 

On the half shafts? Some of these parts i'm going to take to a shop to have checked out because I don't necessarily know what to look for.

 

I found out the half shaft bolts are 8mm allen heads. I still need to run out and grab one of those.

 

Just disconnected the reverse light cables from the transmission, the grounding wire to one of the transmission bolts (marked this) and a couple other cables down there (marked them).

 

I had to cut the rear hose for the coolant line that runs toward the front of the block. Thing was on there!! I'm going to replace all those hoses anyways. I'll get the half shafts out today and then whenever I get the hoist it should be pretty quick getting the engine out.

 

 

You take the engine and gearbox out at the same time.

It takes a 8MM allen to get the bolts out of the axle shaft.

You take the engine and gearbox out at the same time.

 

Haha, sarcasm? I just said engine above to be simple but yeah I know this.

 

 

It takes a 8MM allen to get the bolts out of the axle shaft.

 

Thanks. Yeah, Chad mentioned it to me earlier via email. Half shafts are disconnected and oddly enough, my passenger side half shaft I think 3 of the 4 bolts were loose.

 

 

 

Looks like I just have the engine mounts on the sides and at the rear differential and then it is free but i'll wait until I have a hoist to get those.

cool hipster

glad you kept the car

cool hipster

glad you kept the car

 

 

Thanks Jason. Pretty sure it's a keeper! Especially once I manage to know how to do all this work myself!

Reading back through Fivecar's threads has been good. Per him, the engine/transmission is less than 1000 lbs so a 2ton hoist will be plenty and I have ordered one along with engine leveler and chains and they are on their way here so I hope to have the engine out by Thanksgiving. Reading through the F40 restoration thread sparked a couple of new ideas for me as well. Some of the specific ideas I have i'll leave as a surprise. I think i'm going to get started on cleaning the intake manifold this weekend and getting that painted.

Started cleaning up the Intake Manifold tonight. Took off the throttle linkages, fuel rails, and injectors. I'm likely just going to tape off around the remaining bolts on the intake as well as the throttle bodies and everything attached to that and paint it black and then do red lettering for the Lamborghini script. As in the F40 restoration article, I was thinking of doing the fuel rails blue. Probably will do the throttle linkages black as well. The fit of the injectors in the intake manifold and the fuel rails is pretty snug!! Took some elbow grease to get them all free.

 

Fuel Injectors laid out after removing them. (Sorry to anyone OCD, didn't realize the orientation till now lol)

 

Throttle linkages and fuel rails. I marked one of the fuel rails but they can only go one way and the throttle linkages are obvious too (passenger side is longer than driver side).

 

Intake manifold with all that removed and mostly cleaned up. That material and paint doesn't look very clean when clean anyways.

 

The hoist and leveler will be in by Monday afternoon and then I have to assemble so hopefully over my Thanksgiving break i'll use it! I'm going to work on getting the parts I do have out cleaned up so I can move them inside and give myself room for the engine. Too much stuff in the garage right now.

You should send the injectors out to be cleaned and flow tested. Just had mine done. PM if you would like more information.

 

^^^^ that

 

I use deatschwerks for cleaning & bench flow. Look for someone local first.

Feel free to post the info here if you guys want. How much did that run just so I can have an idea

^^^^ that

 

I use deatschwerks for cleaning & bench flow. Look for someone local first.

 

I'm seeing about $20 per injector for ultra sonic cleaning, bench flow testing and new orings/seals. Sound right?

Reading back through Fivecar's threads has been good. Per him, the engine/transmission is less than 1000 lbs so a 2ton hoist will be plenty and I have ordered one along with engine leveler and chains and they are on their way here so I hope to have the engine out by Thanksgiving. Reading through the F40 restoration thread sparked a couple of new ideas for me as well. Some of the specific ideas I have i'll leave as a surprise. I think i'm going to get started on cleaning the intake manifold this weekend and getting that painted.

 

Your Diablo will need to be off the ground also, since the angle needed to pull the engine and transmission is too steep to clear the rear of the car with the Diablo on flat ground.

I have the front lifted to aid with that but I can roll the car onto the driveway if I need extra clearance above. Or worst case I can take the rear wheels off and lower the frame with a low profile jack. I won't be alone during the removal either.

I'm seeing about $20 per injector for ultra sonic cleaning, bench flow testing and new orings/seals. Sound right?

 

That's the average price and if it's local, you're saving on shipping costs/time/etc.