6 speed manual shifting issues

Congrats on an inexpensive fix, and thanks for sharing the info!

 

How did you get the transmission out? Were you able to take it out without taking out the engine like you were planning? Was 3 hours just for the work to fix the transmission, or does that including taking out the transmission?

Actually I was able to remove the shifter assembly without removing the transmission. Took a bit of creativity to get to the top two front trans mount bolts but was worth the time savings. My car has been converted to 2-wheel drive already so the front wheel drive components were not there to slow me down

Regarding the broker shifter - I broke one in my first '02 Murci and had been quoted engine out of replace the shifter from a dealer. Luckily the cousin of a good friend from law school happened to be an engineer in R&D and Project Leader at Lamborghini. Below is the factory's fix for a broken shifter (which I may have previously posted in another thread awhile ago):

 

1) dismount the transmission shaft to the front axle (5 screws on the gearbox side and some more on the differential side), disconnecting the front differential from the gearbox and thus allowing access to the lower part of the shifter housing and the relevant 4 fixing screws (the front differential might have to be loosened as well, in order to allow the the removal of the whole shaft).

 

2) remove the fixings to the frame (4 screws on a big black bracket), transversal to the vehicle.

 

3) at this point you have the shifter housing itself, hanging under the tunnel; the only constraint left is a shaft (lever) from the shifter housing to the gearbox, which could be the hardest part of the job: removing the elastic pin. on the gearbox side.

 

4) once you've done this, the whole shifter assy is in your hands, ready to have the lever replaced. Shouldn't take more than 4 hrs, while removing the whole engine + gearbox might take a couple of days...

 

Thanks for the info rushdriven - I actually saw your post in another thread and have that saved with these steps!

 

Sorry for my delay to reporting this issue but I have good news! I have fixed the problem. The problem started from a roll pin that sheered off halfway that held the base of the shifter to the pivoting ball socket. When that broke and fell down it got caught between a solid metal tube that slides back and forth between two brass bushings that controls forward and back gear selection in base of shifter assembly. After removing the assembly I took the unit apart and found that after a burr was created from a dent in the metal slide, it starting carving grooves in the brass bushings and created a lot of friction. I further dissembled the unit with a couple of snap rings and what not and I was able to wet sand the metal slide with 400 until the burr no onger existed. I reassembled and it shifts better than new. Cost me 3 hours and a piece of 400grit along with a new roll pin upon assembly. If I can figure out how to post pics again I'll show unit out. If you really need pics or description sooner just txt me 815-342-1971.

 

Appreciate the update - upon further diagnosing it's apparent the issue is the clutch itself and possibly this has damaged the transmission, either way it's an engine out job... I have a few places on the east coast giving me quotes and i've been referred to Pegaclutch for a kevlar replacement, does anyone recommend them or any other companies out there that have clutches which can handle 1,100 bhp?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

Thanks for the info rushdriven - I actually saw your post in another thread and have that saved with these steps!

 

 

 

Appreciate the update - upon further diagnosing it's apparent the issue is the clutch itself and possibly this has damaged the transmission, either way it's an engine out job... I have a few places on the east coast giving me quotes and i've been referred to Pegaclutch for a kevlar replacement, does anyone recommend them or any other companies out there that have clutches which can handle 1,100 bhp?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

I would personally take the recommendation of Underground Racing for the clutch since they are the ones that are building these 1100hp monsters that eat clutches for breakfast.

 

Did they recommend Pegaclutch?

I would personally take the recommendation of Underground Racing for the clutch since they are the ones that are building these 1100hp monsters that eat clutches for breakfast.

 

Did they recommend Pegaclutch?

 

No, Kevin said the clutch in my car isn't being sold anymore and he knows there are a few other companies out there but he doesn't have experience with them...

No, Kevin said the clutch in my car isn't being sold anymore and he knows there are a few other companies out there but he doesn't have experience with them...

 

 

Latest on this - looks like it is in face a synchros issue... I will most likely be installing a new hi tech exotic clutch whilst the engine is out anyway for peace of mind as well as looking into the transmission, synchros etc. Just getting prices on labor around me from a number of recommended places, once I have final word and the car is in the shop i'll let you know the outcome!

 

Thanks,

Tom

Latest on this - looks like it is in face a synchros issue... I will most likely be installing a new hi tech exotic clutch whilst the engine is out anyway for peace of mind as well as looking into the transmission, synchros etc. Just getting prices on labor around me from a number of recommended places, once I have final word and the car is in the shop i'll let you know the outcome!

 

Thanks,

Tom

This was my problem...the brass sleeve had a burr

This was my problem...the brass sleeve had a burr

 

Thanks for this, very useful!

Hi All,

 

I just wanted to update you all as we got to the bottom of the shifting issue with Jason Giannetti of Giannetti Performance who I would highly recommend (377 Sheffield Ave, West Babylon, NY 11704 (631) 587-0268)!

 

The main issue is that the clutch isn't fully disengaging which is causing issues shifting out of and into gears, especially at speed. There may be damage to the synchros and gears themselves but I am able to drive the car with no huge issues with this knowledge now (to get into reverse I'll stop the engine, shift then start the engine again). I'll be taking the engine out to have a new tried and tested kevlar clutch put in along with a potential transmission rebuild this winter.

 

I don't know the make of the clutch unfortunately but apparently it's not the one UGR installed, time will tell.

 

As for the shifter, for now we have tapped a hole in the existing shaft, put a 5mm screw in and then tapped a hole in a screw matching the thread pattern of the shifter for a quick fix until replaceing the shaft this winter when the engine is out to minimize labor costs (a few pics attached).

 

 

 

 

If anyone's in the tri state area I really would recommend Jason, great pricing and an extremely knowledgeable guy!

 

Thanks,

Tom

Tom,

 

Are you certain that the clutch hydraulics are working correctly? If so, how did you confirm that?

 

You could have an issue with air in the system, or a flex line that has gone soft, or a master cylinder that has a bad piston seal. It could also be the throw out bearing/slave cylinder, which is engine out anyway, but I would suspect you will see some clutch fluid (and fluid loss in the reservoir) dripping out the bottom if you had a problem there.

 

Just asking because it's always best to rule out the cheaper/easier problem areas.

 

I did a writeup on here on replacing the master cylinder. And I would recommend using a vacuum bleeder to really flush out the system.

 

Philip

Tom,

 

Are you certain that the clutch hydraulics are working correctly? If so, how did you confirm that?

 

You could have an issue with air in the system, or a flex line that has gone soft, or a master cylinder that has a bad piston seal. It could also be the throw out bearing/slave cylinder, which is engine out anyway, but I would suspect you will see some clutch fluid (and fluid loss in the reservoir) dripping out the bottom if you had a problem there.

 

Just asking because it's always best to rule out the cheaper/easier problem areas.

 

I did a writeup on here on replacing the master cylinder. And I would recommend using a vacuum bleeder to really flush out the system.

 

Philip

 

I've had the clutch fluid changed and bled, there's not visible clutch fluid after the 2000 mile road trip and there's no free play in the clutch pedal with good travel. Next step i think is to use a borescope to see...