Interesting Weekend

Problem isn't the size but the figure. 91 has lobes protruding out at the bottom and slide into the OEM tray preventing vertical movement. 34/34R can be shimmed to eliminate lateral movement but one good bump and the battery goes flying.

 

34 has the perimeter flange that the "hold down bracket" (plate with the bolt going through it) pushes on. 24 would also have this flange iirc.

 

What year car are you working with?

34 has the perimeter flange that the "hold down bracket" (plate with the bolt going through it) pushes on. 24 would also have this flange iirc.

 

What year car are you working with?

 

 

That is a 34R... 34 is same thing but poles are reversed in polarity.

 

This is 91.

 

 

 

In case this wasn't a well known fact (I didn't know it until digging into the cars). The LP has a different battery box than the pre-LP.

 

 

LP640

 

 

02/03

 

BCI Group 91 is the CORRECT size. However, there are very few manufacturers making batteries in that size. The popular Interstate MT-91 (91 for BCI Group 91) has been discontinued and are no longer made.

My '07 came with Interstate MTP-48/H6. The Deka 734 required shims to fit (totally forgot about that), but the 734 fit fine in my '02 & '03.

 

Die Hard 50090 is a direct fit for '02/'03, but weighs 20lbs more than Deka.

 

CLARIFICATION - Deka 734MF (not RMF like I previously thought it may be).

 

Interstate foot fits within the LP's battery box lip:

 

Fun fact, LP640 has more room around the battery to work because of oil cooler placement:

 

LP

 

pre-LP

 

Thats mine right now 03... until I figure out how to strap the Group 34R battery.

My 2003 had a tow strap wrapped around the battery to keep it from bouncing up.

 

Based off of the weight of the battery, horizontal pressure from the brackets and torsion from the cables, it would have to be a pretty massive force to get that thing to move.

Based off of the weight of the battery, horizontal pressure from the brackets and torsion from the cables, it would have to be a pretty massive force to get that thing to move.

 

If you were really worried, some pieces of 1/8" x 1" galvanized steel flat bar, a couple sections of all-thread, and a few wing nuts would have it permanently locked in place. All told it would take 15 min to fab up and under $30 from home depot. If you got fancy you could even use the factory lockdown nuts.

 

For anyone being adventurous, I would avoid aluminum brackets in this case (assuming the battery tray is steel). That close to the battery, dissimilar metals, you could get some weird corrosion going on.

Whiteout is right, when I called the lambo dealers size depended on the year of the car. Initially I couldn't figure what was holding down the battery, until I found those two hidden bolts at the bottom of the tray near the rear side of the car. Plus those with CCB you can see my mechanical expert method (ha ha) for avoiding scratching the inside of the wheel, since with CCB there is only a fraction of an inch between the CCB/brake mechanisms and wheel. Unfortunately rear wheel needs to come out to change the battery, but I guess better than an engine pull. I just laughed when I learned the battery was there, but maybe it works better closer to the engine rather than in the front, not sure. Maybe raise the front of the car too before jacking up. BTW the new Interstate is working great with me, with trickle applied.

 

Battery Removal by JanDaMan, on Flickr

Battery Tray Removed by JanDaMan, on Flickr

Battery Size for LP640 by JanDaMan, on Flickr

Save wheel removal with CCB by JanDaMan, on Flickr

Rear jacked up & car elevated by JanDaMan, on Flickr

My 2003 had a tow strap wrapped around the battery to keep it from bouncing up.

 

This explains everything. Doing the same today. Hopefully this thread helps others out there.

 

JanDaMan really appreciate your insight as well. LP640 owners should find your diagrams extremely useful!

Fun fact, LP640 has more room around the battery to work because of oil cooler placement:

 

LP

 

pre-LP

 

That last picture looks like you might have been off roading just prior.

 

Thank you all for your responses. My '06 battery tray holds a 34/34R perfectly. I have the battery bracket that hangs above the battery (the link posted earlier from please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors).

 

So, this is the latest entry into my saga. Since I posted this thread, I have driven the car once. Yet again, the e-gear light comes on while I am driving. Fortunately I was close to home this time.

 

Details:

 

I was in 5th gear while driving. This time, I had throttle, but I could not down shift. One stopped, the car went into Neutral and would not go into 1st, 2nd nor reverse. Now, I have a fresh battery. The alternator tested fine.

 

Test:

 

Since the car does this to me while I am driving, I decided to let it idle until the voltage drops, then see if it goes into reverse or 1st gear. While the car was idling, the voltage meter in the dash read 13.1.

 

Previously while driving the voltage meter hits 13.4, the e-gear light comes on, bish-bam-boom, car stops vroom (elementary humor). In this instance the voltage dropped to 13.1 and I was able to get the car into reverse and 1st gear.

 

Interesting. This problem only occurs while I'm driving.

 

Any ideas?

I've burnt up a few batteries with tenders, including two Optima Red's and one Yellow. Granted, tenders nowadays may be better now but for me: 1) forget the Optimas, 2) I dumped all the tenders for full battery disconnects. Maybe not that practical for a newer car w/electronics, but for winter storage you can't go wrong with the disconnects.

 

 

Same here, I am surprised to hear everyone saying we need to get tenders, as I have already ruined two batteries with them, a red top, and the interstate.

 

I now have an Autozone model that was nearly a drop in (used a little dremel tool to adjust the base to get it to fit on the slideable plate, but I have left the lambo unused for like 2-3 weeks, and it cranked right up, where as before, I would leave the lambo for 2 weeks and it needed a jump to get it going.

 

Sorry I dont know the Autozone model right off my head, but they were able to cross reference it from the interstate battery I had. It literally is the best of the batteries i have had. It was their top of the line brand, I think Platinum vs Gold, and so it gets more cranking amps.

 

I'd likely replace the battery and see if that solves these issues. And I recommend oddly enough the one from Autozone, its been flawless for the last 3 months.

 

Jon

Same here, I am surprised to hear everyone saying we need to get tenders, as I have already ruined two batteries with them, a red top, and the interstate.

 

I now have an Autozone model that was nearly a drop in (used a little dremel tool to adjust the base to get it to fit on the slideable plate, but I have left the lambo unused for like 2-3 weeks, and it cranked right up, where as before, I would leave the lambo for 2 weeks and it needed a jump to get it going.

 

Sorry I dont know the Autozone model right off my head, but they were able to cross reference it from the interstate battery I had. It literally is the best of the batteries i have had. It was their top of the line brand, I think Platinum vs Gold, and so it gets more cranking amps.

 

I'd likely replace the battery and see if that solves these issues. And I recommend oddly enough the one from Autozone, its been flawless for the last 3 months.

 

Jon

 

I love the AutoZone batteries. I usually get the Gold though because it has a 5 yr vs 3yr warranty, and often the Gold is higher rated and comes in more shapes and sizes.

 

Keep in mind that when you let the battery get low, it may still start the car, but it makes the alternator work really hard to charge it back up. I would rather risk the battery than the alternator. I don't leave my cars on tenders because I drive them often, but if I don't drive a car for a week, I make sure to charge it up the night before so that alternator doesn't melt.

I love the AutoZone batteries. I usually get the Gold though because it has a 5 yr vs 3yr warranty, and often the Gold is higher rated and comes in more shapes and sizes.

 

Keep in mind that when you let the battery get low, it may still start the car, but it makes the alternator work really hard to charge it back up. I would rather risk the battery than the alternator. I don't leave my cars on tenders because I drive them often, but if I don't drive a car for a week, I make sure to charge it up the night before so that alternator doesn't melt.

 

 

That was my point, I got the better version, if it was Gold vs Silver, then I got gold, if it was Gold vs Platinum, then I got Platinum. All I can remember is I got their best version, and it came with more Cranking amps then the standard one.

 

I think some people are being overly sensitive on the alternator, people that's what its meant to do, dead/dying batteries are a way of life, alternators are designed to charge even drained batteries, so do what you like, but my murci has drained a battery many times from just sitting, and my alternator is still going strong, 5 years later. Batteries not so reliable.

That was my point, I got the better version, if it was Gold vs Silver, then I got gold, if it was Gold vs Platinum, then I got Platinum. All I can remember is I got their best version, and it came with more Cranking amps then the standard one.

 

I think some people are being overly sensitive on the alternator, people that's what its meant to do, dead/dying batteries are a way of life, alternators are designed to charge even drained batteries, so do what you like, but my murci has drained a battery many times from just sitting, and my alternator is still going strong, 5 years later. Batteries not so reliable.

 

Typically I will just leave my car if it is 2 weeks or under and it starts no problem, if over 2 weeks I will put the battery on charge just to be safe.

My battery was fine after 4 or so years but I had it changed out as a precaution, only time I have had a problem was when I left the inside lights on. I had to connect a jumper battery as everytime I tried to charge it the alarm would go off.

 

That was my point, I got the better version, if it was Gold vs Silver, then I got gold, if it was Gold vs Platinum, then I got Platinum. All I can remember is I got their best version, and it came with more Cranking amps then the standard one.

 

I think some people are being overly sensitive on the alternator, people that's what its meant to do, dead/dying batteries are a way of life, alternators are designed to charge even drained batteries, so do what you like, but my murci has drained a battery many times from just sitting, and my alternator is still going strong, 5 years later. Batteries not so reliable.

 

You've had a good experience, but there are plenty of people with cars that are barely used that need alternators replacements after low miles, and that's why. Unfortunately the engineers design the alternators with a set of parameters in mind, and in the case of alternators, they expect the battery to be charged all the time because they expect the car to be driven all the time. And they are always trying to lower costs, so they don't over-engineer the alternators for those few that have garage queens instead of daily drivers. They expect you to charge up the battery if you don't drive it often.

You've had a good experience, but there are plenty of people with cars that are barely used that need alternators replacements after low miles, and that's why. Unfortunately the engineers design the alternators with a set of parameters in mind, and in the case of alternators, they expect the battery to be charged all the time because they expect the car to be driven all the time. And they are always trying to lower costs, so they don't over-engineer the alternators for those few that have garage queens instead of daily drivers. They expect you to charge up the battery if you don't drive it often.

 

 

That's more opinion, speculation and conjecture then it is "fact." But that's the beauty of a forum, we all have opinions and they are all welcomed here. I may not agree with yours, but I respect that you have one.

 

My experience has been alternator is rock solid on these cars, but batteries have been a struggle, and battery tender so far has caused me 2 killed batteries.

 

Back on topic, I'd give a new battery a shot and see if that solves your problem OP!

 

 

That's more opinion, speculation and conjecture then it is "fact." But that's the beauty of a forum, we all have opinions and they are all welcomed here. I may not agree with yours, but I respect that you have one.

 

My experience has been alternator is rock solid on these cars, but batteries have been a struggle, and battery tender so far has caused me 2 killed batteries.

 

Back on topic, I'd give a new battery a shot and see if that solves your problem OP!

 

You're right, you're the expert. Sorry.

Been 6 years. My battery is toast (measured 500CCA)... and now it's time to get the correct battery in there so I don't have to strap it down anymore.

BCI Group 48 (H6) works great for 02/03! Way easier to find than BCI Group 91 and WAY more choices. Hope this thread continues to help people.