Kipper Report post Posted December 24, 2016 Hello Lambo friends I have an 02 Murci that i have stored for approximately 6 months on a tender, I have always kept my car on a C Tek tender Today i decided to clean and take my car for a run however the following problem occurred and i cannot start it The car was unlocked so I inserted the key turned on the ignition and when i turned the key there is no action at all no clicking no noise at all I then tried the fob and noticed that the alarm Fob was not working tried my spare and no difference. points of note: 1) Battery comes up 11.8 volts and headlights turn on fine so battery is not dead, (note there is no solenoid engaging no attempt tom start at all) 2) Tried isolating the power and when i put the power back on the indicators flash an after some time the alarm siren will go off, but because the fob does not work i cannot stop the alarm 3) If ever in the past i try to start the Murci without disarming the alarm the car will crank but not start 4) Alarm Led between the seats is flashing approximately every 4 seconds it appears that something in the alarm system has gone south and will not allow the ignition to engage Can anyone please offer some advice as to what could be causing this problem Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSXtoMURCI Report post Posted December 24, 2016 I just went through a not exact situation as your but similar. Went to start the car and nothing, all the lights are on but car won't crank won't even turn. I replaced new battery and still no luck, finally new starter to get it start again. I think you should replace new battery for your keyfob and try to go through the "Murci starting ritual" start see what happen, if it doesn't start...try to go under your car and slightly tap your starter with a rubber hammer of the sort, this may loose up the seize starter and could get it to start. Right now it sounds like you are having alarm system issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEd Report post Posted December 24, 2016 Yes. Sounds like it an alarm system problem. Replace key batteries first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpamurci Report post Posted December 24, 2016 I'd replace the keyfob batteries simply because it's easy, but I'd suspect the battery or the alarm, for two reasons: 1) I am replacing the battery on my '03 today, and it was exhibiting similar issues. Turns out the Interstate battery I had was defective and the positive post was not sealed, so gasses/acid were working their way up and out until the battery terminal turned into mush. Enough power could make it out that the alarm would arm/disarm, but nothing else. 2) The worse option; I've also had identical behavior when the entire alarm brain failed a few years ago; see that joyous thread here: http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?...c=69236&hl= Summary; brain died, previous owner hadn't provided the PIN, required replacing it and the paired (via PIN) immobilizer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted December 24, 2016 I just went through a not exact situation as your but similar. Went to start the car and nothing, all the lights are on but car won't crank won't even turn. I replaced new battery and still no luck, finally new starter to get it start again. I think you should replace new battery for your keyfob and try to go through the "Murci starting ritual" start see what happen, if it doesn't start...try to go under your car and slightly tap your starter with a rubber hammer of the sort, this may loose up the seize starter and could get it to start. Right now it sounds like you are having alarm system issue. Starter solenoid does not try to engage, lights head lights all good i am certain it is an alarm issue as per posts below? Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted December 24, 2016 Yes. Sounds like it an alarm system problem. Replace key batteries first. I checked my alarm fob battery and i have 2.8 volts but i will change them anyway, the spare fob did not work also Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted December 24, 2016 I'd replace the keyfob batteries simply because it's easy, but I'd suspect the battery or the alarm, for two reasons: 1) I am replacing the battery on my '03 today, and it was exhibiting similar issues. Turns out the Interstate battery I had was defective and the positive post was not sealed, so gasses/acid were working their way up and out until the battery terminal turned into mush. Enough power could make it out that the alarm would arm/disarm, but nothing else. 2) The worse option; I've also had identical behavior when the entire alarm brain failed a few years ago; see that joyous thread here: http://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?...c=69236&hl= Summary; brain died, previous owner hadn't provided the PIN, required replacing it and the paired (via PIN) immobilizer. Thank you for your detailed post I will try the battery and fob batteries as you never know but i don't think it will be the problem The link describing your experience with the alarm immobilizer sounds very similar to my problem, Can you assist me with a guide as to how to locate the alarm ECU in a Euro version Murci RHD I would like to try the process of disconnecting the unit to see if this is the area of concern? Can you offer me any other insight as to how you went about replacing the Alarm ECU is this a DIY option or do you need software and PC connected? Also to all the posters that have contributed i thank you all very much for your valued input, any other comments along the way will be very much appreciated and i will keep you all updated on the progress, it will be a slow journey as it is Xmas and not a lot happens here in OZ for the next 2 weeks Keep well and safe Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpamurci Report post Posted December 24, 2016 Thank you for your detailed post I will try the battery and fob batteries as you never know but i don't think it will be the problem The link describing your experience with the alarm immobilizer sounds very similar to my problem, Can you assist me with a guide as to how to locate the alarm ECU in a Euro version Murci RHD I would like to try the process of disconnecting the unit to see if this is the area of concern? Can you offer me any other insight as to how you went about replacing the Alarm ECU is this a DIY option or do you need software and PC connected? Also to all the posters that have contributed i thank you all very much for your valued input, any other comments along the way will be very much appreciated and i will keep you all updated on the progress, it will be a slow journey as it is Xmas and not a lot happens here in OZ for the next 2 weeks Keep well and safe Kipper The alarm module should be sitting on top of the ECU in the center console area behind the radio. You can get to it from either side but I found it easier to get to from what is my passenger side. It can definitely be a DIY job if, and only if, you have the original MED 2000 alarm PIN card with your secret code on it. If you have that, there's a way to put in a new alarm module and re-pair it to the ECU and immobilizer by entering the PIN via ignition key turns, as odd as that sounds. If you don't have the PIN, then you end up having to replace the immobilizer too which is a lot of work and probably not DIY unless you really like tearing things apart. If you'd find it helpful, I can probably scan and email you the MED 2000 manual, if you can't find one online. I remember having a very difficult time locating one, but then my new alarm came with it so I have a copy now. If you need it, just PM me your email addy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimpy Report post Posted December 25, 2016 The alarm module should be sitting on top of the ECU in the center console area behind the radio. You can get to it from either side but I found it easier to get to from what is my passenger side. It can definitely be a DIY job if, and only if, you have the original MED 2000 alarm PIN card with your secret code on it. If you have that, there's a way to put in a new alarm module and re-pair it to the ECU and immobilizer by entering the PIN via ignition key turns, as odd as that sounds. If you don't have the PIN, then you end up having to replace the immobilizer too which is a lot of work and probably not DIY unless you really like tearing things apart. If you'd find it helpful, I can probably scan and email you the MED 2000 manual, if you can't find one online. I remember having a very difficult time locating one, but then my new alarm came with it so I have a copy now. If you need it, just PM me your email addy. I thought the 2 ECU's were behind the driver seat (left hand drive car)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamborga Report post Posted December 25, 2016 I thought the 2 ECU's were behind the driver seat (left hand drive car)? It's on top of Koni Ecu, behind radio, next to air bag ecu, if you pull side panel on passenger side you'll see. Its the only black module there, green one is for the windows.Now to get to immobilizer its harder since they are attached to fuel filters on engine bay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
key03 Report post Posted December 25, 2016 I wanted to make one quick note on your statement regarding the State Of Charge of your battery. You say it is at 11.8v. That is a basically dead battery or at 30%. A fully charged battery is 12.7v. If you look up a State Of Charge chart you will see what I mean. I hope you get this sorted quickly! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted December 25, 2016 I wanted to make one quick note on your statement regarding the State Of Charge of your battery. You say it is at 11.8v. That is a basically dead battery or at 30%. A fully charged battery is 12.7v. If you look up a State Of Charge chart you will see what I mean. I hope you get this sorted quickly! Key 03 You make a very valid point, the only reason i discounted the battery is that Dash lights come on lots of whirring sounds what sounds like fuel pums actuators ect? and headlights also come on OK, usually if battery is collapsing as soon as you attempt a start it will pull the systems down in an attempt to start. Being Xmas i have not been back to the Murci to try anything yet but i have been giving everything lots of thought and i am waiting now for shops to open to buy Fob batteries and then i will try batteries ect. I must admit after reading all the posts I am now crapping myself as like many I do not have a pin card (####) Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted December 25, 2016 The alarm module should be sitting on top of the ECU in the center console area behind the radio. You can get to it from either side but I found it easier to get to from what is my passenger side. It can definitely be a DIY job if, and only if, you have the original MED 2000 alarm PIN card with your secret code on it. If you have that, there's a way to put in a new alarm module and re-pair it to the ECU and immobilizer by entering the PIN via ignition key turns, as odd as that sounds. If you don't have the PIN, then you end up having to replace the immobilizer too which is a lot of work and probably not DIY unless you really like tearing things apart. If you'd find it helpful, I can probably scan and email you the MED 2000 manual, if you can't find one online. I remember having a very difficult time locating one, but then my new alarm came with it so I have a copy now. If you need it, just PM me your email addy. Hello tpamurci No I dont have the Pin Card (Crap) Can you explain the function and location of the Immobilizer? I assume the ECU behind the radio is the Brain and the Immobilizer is another control module that talks to the ECU? Is it the immobilizer that stops the ignition and cuts out fuel pump operation, does it do any other complex functions? Also I note that when i isolated the battery and put it back on the car went into alarm when i opened the door and would stop when i put the key into the ignition, does this indicate anything to you? Where is the Immobilizer located? Thank you for you input Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
megachad Report post Posted December 26, 2016 Sounds like battery issue if it is under 12.5v.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpamurci Report post Posted December 26, 2016 Hello tpamurci No I dont have the Pin Card (Crap) Can you explain the function and location of the Immobilizer? I assume the ECU behind the radio is the Brain and the Immobilizer is another control module that talks to the ECU? Is it the immobilizer that stops the ignition and cuts out fuel pump operation, does it do any other complex functions? Also I note that when i isolated the battery and put it back on the car went into alarm when i opened the door and would stop when i put the key into the ignition, does this indicate anything to you? Where is the Immobilizer located? Thank you for you input Kipper The immobilizer is there to meet some EU anti-theft requirement. My understanding, which could be wrong, is that it prevents the fuel pump(s) from working, so the engine may crank but won't start. I was told it's an integral piece of the fuel system so you can't easily bypass it without fabricating new fuel lines. In any case, when a new med2000 and immobilizer are installed, or during factory build, they pair with one another at the 21st start cycle of the car. After that, if you replace one but not the other, you need the six digit PIN, otherwise you have to replace both. I think the alarm is supposed to go off when the battery is disconnected, but it also has an anti-battery drain feature, where the siring is not supposed to operate if the battery gets too low. So if we're lucky here and you just have a dead battery, the siren may have disabled itself as the battery drained, and when you reconnected, it went off as it should, but you could still have a mostly dead battery. I just scanned the manual, will shoot it over to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimpy Report post Posted December 27, 2016 Is the PIN for the immobilizer something the dealer or factory can give you, maybe with some numbers off the immobilizer units? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpamurci Report post Posted December 27, 2016 Is the PIN for the immobilizer something the dealer or factory can give you, maybe with some numbers off the immobilizer units? Nope, it's set at time of build and the factory doesn't have it, in theory, but even if they do, they won't give it to you. It's stamped on a plastic card where the numbers are covered by a material like a lottery ticket that you have to scratch off to see. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted December 27, 2016 Thank you to all that have posted some suggestions on what i should do I will be away for 10 days as soon as I arrive back I will change Battery and Fob Batteries and see what happens????? in the meantime i will leave the battery isolated As soon as I have done so I will post my results, unfortunately i have been so busy i have not been able to get the time to at least replace the battery Drive safe and i will be back soon Thanks Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted January 22, 2017 An Update on my progress to resolve this problem I removed the battery 2 weeks ago and installed the new battery I was certain that the original battery was OK but put a new one in anyway. After installing the battery i tried the Fob's and no go i tried several times and also tried holding the Fob's close to the center consul ect and after several attempts bingo the alarm operated, after running and stopping i went back and the alarm would not work again I went back 1 hour later and the alarm worked. I am sure that i will need to replace the alarm module, don't want to end up stranded away from home,here goes 4-5 K with the fuel locks Thanks all for your guidance along the way Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emissary Report post Posted January 22, 2017 Is there anyway to just remove the alarm/immobilizer system on an early Murcielago entirely? It seems like the system causes more issues than it solves. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kipper Report post Posted January 23, 2017 Is there anyway to just remove the alarm/immobilizer system on an early Murcielago entirely? It seems like the system causes more issues than it solves. I guess it would be you would just have to trace the outputs to the door locks and ignition immobilizer. I did consider this but decided not to bother as the alarm unit at approx $1200 although insane for what it is I thought it best to keep this original As tpamurci previously posted the problem is the fuel solenoids that cannot be paired if you don't have the PIN Card At $1800 each it was recommended to me to delete the fuel solenoids as they apparently can leak very easily and are the cause of many Murci fires? Keep well Kipper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IgalMD Report post Posted May 20, 2021 Can you please email me the 2000L manual? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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