Sign in to follow this  
megachad

inspecting the car

Recommended Posts

Ok guys. I have had the car on the lift, changed all the fluids, and checked the car over top to bottom.

 

I am so fcuking pleased with this car. I truly can't believe how nice this car is. Murcivu didn't even mention the fact that he had a binder 3" thick of service history on this car, pictures of an engine out with head work being done, hand written documentation of valve adjustments. Just tons of cool shit. There are literally just a couple minor things I have to work through and I feel the car is like 100%

 

1. fuel gauge is finicky. anyone know where it grounds to or how to figure out to make it work?

 

2. engine has been running on the hotter side, it'll hit 100c pretty easily and then i have to cruise to bring it down.. but it is 97 ambient here.. anyone have a write up on how to change thermostat? I may even just take out the internals on the thermostat to make it flow better.

 

3. steering rack is loose. passenger side where it goes into itself has play. any write up on replacing or fixing? anyone else have this issue?

 

4. suspension is mechanically in good shape, but it's 27 years old.. anyone have suggestions on replacements?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try reaching out to Frank over at Raging Bull. He's been maintaining the car over the past 3 years. Perhaps he can give you some guidance. Just tell him I sent you. And prior to him was Mark over at Sphere Motorsports. He was the one that actually replaced the fuel sender. I would give him a try as well. Hope that helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Grounding in the dash is common on the early cars. My gauges used to be all over the place depending if and how many of the headlights and parking lights were on. If it's just the fuel gauge, I'd try doing a jumper from another ground on the next gauge.

Can't remember for certain but I think you just need to drain the coolant and remove the Y pipes for coolant to access the thermostat housing. I think there was 3 nuts holding the housing on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1. Fuel gauge, good luck, both of my cars so it, sometimes it drops to zero, and then slowly builds it's way back to the correct reading. There's not an easy fix. Word is, it's NOT the sender.

 

2. Changing the thermostat is no different than changing on other cars, it's been a while, but basically remove the housing and lift the old one out, new one in. Also suspect your tank cap seal, both fans working? Using a laser temp gun, shoot the tank or therm housing, and compare against your gauge to see if it really is as hot as it reads.

 

4. Don't be in a hurry to replace bushings etc. I've done two 45 year old Pantera's, and while the bushings looked cracked around the rims, the inside was still supple. Suspension work is a pain for DIYer's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I changed the thermostat on my 6.0. Unfortunately replacements are ~$400. I don't remember anything unusual about the job. Be sure to use the factory gasket as well. Mine was only opening part way, before replacing it the coolant temperature would push towards 100F. After replacement I've driven in 100F weather in Napa and stop/go in LA and the coolant temperate does not rise above 90. From what I've seen on the forums, Diablos don't typically overheat.

 

You need to make sure the weep hole in the Thermostats is at 12 o'clock.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Try reaching out to Frank over at Raging Bull. He's been maintaining the car over the past 3 years. Perhaps he can give you some guidance. Just tell him I sent you. And prior to him was Mark over at Sphere Motorsports. He was the one that actually replaced the fuel sender. I would give him a try as well. Hope that helps.

I'll do that! thank you bro. love the car!!!!!!

 

Grounding in the dash is common on the early cars. My gauges used to be all over the place depending if and how many of the headlights and parking lights were on. If it's just the fuel gauge, I'd try doing a jumper from another ground on the next gauge.

Can't remember for certain but I think you just need to drain the coolant and remove the Y pipes for coolant to access the thermostat housing. I think there was 3 nuts holding the housing on.

 

Ok. i'll try that on both accounts. I think I am going to run Evans coolant in the car as well. going to try it in my race car as well.

1. Fuel gauge, good luck, both of my cars so it, sometimes it drops to zero, and then slowly builds it's way back to the correct reading. There's not an easy fix. Word is, it's NOT the sender.

 

2. Changing the thermostat is no different than changing on other cars, it's been a while, but basically remove the housing and lift the old one out, new one in. Also suspect your tank cap seal, both fans working? Using a laser temp gun, shoot the tank or therm housing, and compare against your gauge to see if it really is as hot as it reads.

 

4. Don't be in a hurry to replace bushings etc. I've done two 45 year old Pantera's, and while the bushings looked cracked around the rims, the inside was still supple. Suspension work is a pain for DIYer's.

I'll look into the ground and let you know if that works. I was just wondering where the thermostat was for certain. I had a clue, but wanted to verify.

both fans work and throwing a temp gun on it isn't a bad idea.

 

I have done all my bushings in my race cars. I wasn't necessarily looking to do the bushings. I am most concerned about the steering rack having play in it.

 

I changed the thermostat on my 6.0. Unfortunately replacements are ~$400. I don't remember anything unusual about the job. Be sure to use the factory gasket as well. Mine was only opening part way, before replacing it the coolant temperature would push towards 100F. After replacement I've driven in 100F weather in Napa and stop/go in LA and the coolant temperate does not rise above 90. From what I've seen on the forums, Diablos don't typically overheat.

 

You need to make sure the weep hole in the Thermostats is at 12 o'clock.

Great to hear! thank you and ill give it a shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Grounding in the dash is common on the early cars. My gauges used to be all over the place depending if and how many of the headlights and parking lights were on. If it's just the fuel gauge, I'd try doing a jumper from another ground on the next gauge.

Can't remember for certain but I think you just need to drain the coolant and remove the Y pipes for coolant to access the thermostat housing. I think there was 3 nuts holding the housing on.

 

did you ever have a little bit of a clunk in the steering rack? just has play in it. i can wiggle the rod by hand..i may just purchase a brand new one from glen. $1800.. just worth the piece of mind. that is the only thing that clunks in the whole car. super solid other than that. I am actually impressed as all hell. figured there would be a lot more to do on a 27yo car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If they haven't already been done - rebuild the shocks. The seals in them are old and wear-out.

 

Not sure about your year but my '99 has 6. There are two guys who do it so long as the electronics are good. I think that it was between $600 and $800/apiece (can't remember exactly). Compare this with $3k/shock if you can even find one. Night-and-day how it drives now versus before.

 

PM me for the guy that I used, if-interested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If they haven't already been done - rebuild the shocks. The seals in them are old and wear-out.

 

Not sure about your year but my '99 has 6. There are two guys who do it so long as the electronics are good. I think that it was between $600 and $800/apiece (can't remember exactly). Compare this with $3k/shock if you can even find one. Night-and-day how it drives now versus before.

 

PM me for the guy that I used, if-interested.

I can get brand new shocks from amh for the 91 for about 6-700 ea. The 91’s arent the same as the newer models. Still oem and everything. Been thinking about doing that. But i do know they arent an issue right now. Car feels fantastiv other than steerong rack inner tie rod. Ill tackle that this coming week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If they haven't already been done - rebuild the shocks. The seals in them are old and wear-out.

 

Not sure about your year but my '99 has 6. There are two guys who do it so long as the electronics are good. I think that it was between $600 and $800/apiece (can't remember exactly). Compare this with $3k/shock if you can even find one. Night-and-day how it drives now versus before.

 

PM me for the guy that I used, if-interested.

And thank you for the info double! Shocks are important!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I can get brand new shocks from amh for the 91 for about 6-700 ea. The 91’s arent the same as the newer models. Still oem and everything. Been thinking about doing that. But i do know they arent an issue right now. Car feels fantastiv other than steerong rack inner tie rod. Ill tackle that this coming week.

 

What a frickin relief THAT is!

 

Look into how much inventory of those OEM shocks is out there. Might want to buy them now and store them for later. I have alot of older cars, now. Seems like every one of them wants to leak through an older gasket or seal and I hate leaks. But also, correctly functioning shock absorbers will make your car drive the way that it was designed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What a frickin relief THAT is!

 

Look into how much inventory of those OEM shocks is out there. Might want to buy them now and store them for later. I have alot of older cars, now. Seems like every one of them wants to leak through an older gasket or seal and I hate leaks. But also, correctly functioning shock absorbers will make your car drive the way that it was designed.

Trust me. Ive been contemplating it. Lol. With multiple parts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
You are commenting as a guest. If you have an account, please sign in.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

Loading...
Sign in to follow this