LW Lambo

DIY Starter Replacement

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I recently changed my starter.  It is possible to do with the engine in without cutting or damaging anything although it was difficult.  Having been through the exercise, I know the tricks now to make it easier.  Here is the process:

-List of tools:  2 36mm open end wrench, 33mm open end wrench, endoscope, small wooden dowel, 19mm open end wrench, short 17mm 12 point socket 3/8" drive, 3/8" drive ratchet, several different length 3/8" extensions, inspection mirror, cheater iron pipe 12" long that can fit over the 19mm wrench, cheater iron pipe 18" long that can fit over the 36mm wrench, cheater copper pipe 12" long that can fit over the ratchet and 36mm wrench.

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-Release parking brake, undo barrel nut which tensions the parking brake cable, disconnect the cable

-Slide parking brake cable over the pulley underneath the starter

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-Remove the oil lines clamp.  It holds the 2 oil lines together. Remember to use a sharpie to mark its orientation to the 2 hoses.

-Disconnect the oil line that runs lengthwise to the car.  It's connected to the oil cooler.  36mm open end wrench with cheater bar on the oil line and 36mm wrench to hold the fitting to the pan

-Disconnect the same oil line from the oil cooler.  36mm with cheater bar on the line and 33mm on the oil cooler side.  This fitting is right underneath the batter tray.

-Pivot the oil line out of the way so you can access the starter.

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Loosen the 19mm bottom nut that holds the starter with open end wrench.  This is a captive nut so you cannot remove it all the way.  You have to loosen it first and then loosen the top nut.  As you slowly move the starter backward, you can unthread the bottom nut all the way out.

 

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THIS IS THE TRICKIEST PART!!!  The top nut is 17mm and NOT 19mm and you can't see it.

-Remove the 17mm top nut that holds the starter with 3/8" drive with 2 connected extensions and a 12-point 17mm socket

    Tips:  -Use camera to look at top nut by looping it through the front top left of the starter

               -Use inspection mirror and flashlight to look at top nut from the rear top of the starter

               -Use wooden dowel as a guide so you can recognize the correct nut and distance when viewing it in the camera

              -Use 3/8 drive and 12 point socket to have more wiggle room.  It is very tight in there

              - Use cheater bar over ratchet because ratchet is too short to put your hand on it inside the cavity

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Remove starter.  It will slide through between the heat shield and the engine.  It will just barely fit through.

Installation is the reverse order.  However, prep work must be done on the starter to help you get the top nut threaded in easier.

Tip:  Glue the washer to the starter for the top nut.  Tape the 17mm nut to the socket. leaving it protruding out 1/4" to make easier contact with the stud to thread in.  Mark the starter with tape and a straight line to aid in alignment of the top nut and stud.

 

The other cheater bars is for leverage when removing the oil line.  My car was not on the lift so I did not have much leverage.  The copper cheater bar is for tightening.  It is soft enough to deform instead of overtightening the nut.

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  • A "wow" thread.
  • Well written and successful repair.
  • Almost makes me wish to do this repair for fun...LOL.
  • Thank you.

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Very impressive. It makes me want to make sure I can afford to have a good shop do it for me :lol2: way too much stuff to go wrong for me here.

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I just had the exhaust manifolds out and the starter would be very easy to replace with the driver side manifolds removed. Engine in, but takes a significant amount of time to remove and replace the manifolds.

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18 hours ago, whiteout said:

I just had the exhaust manifolds out and the starter would be very easy to replace with the driver side manifolds removed. Engine in, but takes a significant amount of time to remove and replace the manifolds.

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What was involved to remove the manifold?  Is the left side harder to remove than the right side?  The left side seems to be more crowded.

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17 hours ago, LW Lambo said:

What was involved to remove the manifold?  Is the left side harder to remove than the right side?  The left side seems to be more crowded.

Remove secondary cat/muffler section, remove primary cat pipe, remove y-pipe from manifolds, remove rear manifold, remove motor mount bolts & rear diff mount bolts and use a piece of wood to move the engine a few inches to get the front manifold out of the car. Passenger side comes out with some wiggling. 

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3 hours ago, darth sidious said:

How do you bookmark topics / threads on here?

Top right, a little below your log in information shows a "follow" button. Click that. 

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23 minutes ago, Destructo said:

Top right, a little below your log in information shows a "follow" button. Click that. 

Got it. Thank you

Same / similar as the subscribe feature on the pre Sept 18 forum version?

Another point - I am not sure which is the least desirable - good reputation, bad reputation or no reputation. Probably no reputation suggesting a Mr beige or Mr bland personality. 

Worryingly, I appear to have no reputation.

 

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