V12noise Report post Posted May 1, 2019 On a pre-LP does anyone know if the engine mounts are replaceable without removing the engine? Also, what should the clearance be between the engine & gbox and the cross-members? The second question is leading me to the first.... I'm guessing that the shims on the diff mount to the chassis adjust the tilt of the engine & gbox with the engine mounts as the pivot? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted May 1, 2019 It can be done. But the rear exhaust manifolds (and y-pipes) have to come out. You might be able to gain access to them with only the primary cats removed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimpy Report post Posted May 1, 2019 6 hours ago, V12noise said: On a pre-LP does anyone know if the engine mounts are replaceable without removing the engine? Also, what should the clearance be between the engine & gbox and the cross-members? The second question is leading me to the first.... I'm guessing that the shims on the diff mount to the chassis adjust the tilt of the engine & gbox with the engine mounts as the pivot? The front differential mounting is a very big part of determining the tilt of the engine. More so than the rear differential because of the long moment arm of the torque tube. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Destructo Report post Posted May 1, 2019 You looking to upgrade to a beefier mount or just a direct OEM replacement? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12noise Report post Posted May 1, 2019 I've done the RWD mod and also made my own gbox mount. The question is how hard to load it up and lift the gbox up. Stimpy, I can see what you're saying about the torque tube levering up the gbox. So I could jack the gbox up and shim the mount up. The point then is that the front and rear mounts are taking a lot or most of the weight and the main mounts are doing the rotational stabilisation. The questions are what clearance I need on the cross-members and whether the main mounts have sagged at all. I'm guessing the mounts don't sag as I've seen no posts about changing them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiteout Report post Posted May 1, 2019 They collapse. It's something that should be replaced when the engine is out for clutch service. I highly suggest not going with a harder mount. I did this previously and the NVH was worse than any car I've been in, including race cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Destructo Report post Posted May 1, 2019 1 hour ago, whiteout said: They collapse. It's something that should be replaced when the engine is out for clutch service. I highly suggest not going with a harder mount. I did this previously and the NVH was worse than any car I've been in, including race cars. I've seen where domestics and some Japanese imports recommend switching to a solid, or at least stiffer mount. Good to know that one shouldn't always do that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12noise Report post Posted May 1, 2019 Aha, so my engine could be starting to droop. Could one of you please take a measurement of the clearance above the cross-members please? Measuring units in multiples of cable-ties as it's pretty difficult to get anything through the gap... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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