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Engine mount replacement how-to


V12noise
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On a pre-LP does anyone know if the engine mounts are replaceable without removing the engine?

Also, what should the clearance be between the engine & gbox and the cross-members?  The second question is leading me to the first....

I'm guessing that the shims on the diff mount to the chassis adjust the tilt of the engine & gbox with the engine mounts as the pivot?  

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It can be done. But the rear exhaust manifolds (and y-pipes) have to come out. You might be able to gain access to them with only the primary cats removed. 

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6 hours ago, V12noise said:

On a pre-LP does anyone know if the engine mounts are replaceable without removing the engine?

Also, what should the clearance be between the engine & gbox and the cross-members?  The second question is leading me to the first....

I'm guessing that the shims on the diff mount to the chassis adjust the tilt of the engine & gbox with the engine mounts as the pivot?  

The front differential mounting is a very big part of determining the tilt of the engine. More so than the rear differential because of the long moment arm of the torque tube.

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I've done the RWD mod and also made my own gbox mount.  The question is how hard to load it up and lift the gbox up. Stimpy, I can see what you're saying about the torque tube levering up the gbox.  So I could jack the gbox up and shim the mount up.  The point then is that the front and rear mounts are taking a lot or most of the weight and the main mounts are doing the rotational stabilisation.

The questions are what clearance I need on the cross-members and whether the main mounts have sagged at all.  I'm guessing the mounts don't sag as I've seen no posts about changing them?  

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They collapse. It's something that should be replaced when the engine is out for clutch service. 

45198151172_c88f6af683_c.jpg

 

31373918108_d92e76f007_c.jpg

 

I highly suggest not going with a harder mount. I did this previously and the NVH was worse than any car I've been in, including race cars. 

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1 hour ago, whiteout said:

They collapse. It's something that should be replaced when the engine is out for clutch service. 

45198151172_c88f6af683_c.jpg

 

31373918108_d92e76f007_c.jpg

 

I highly suggest not going with a harder mount. I did this previously and the NVH was worse than any car I've been in, including race cars. 

I've seen where domestics and some Japanese imports recommend switching to a solid, or at least stiffer mount. Good to know that one shouldn't always do that! :lol2: 

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Aha, so my engine could be starting to droop.  Could one of you please take a measurement of the clearance above the cross-members please? Measuring units in multiples of cable-ties as it's pretty difficult to get anything through the gap...

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