Alternator Removal

Evening,

i am in quarantine again so i thought i would take mine out to change the noisy bearings.

I searched but couldn't find a thread on it, has anybody done it ?

Any tips would be appreciated mine is a 6.2.

I would rank removal of the starter motor as a 4/10, although getting the top bolt back on a 9/10. The car is on a lift so i can get access to the underneath easily.

Thanks

Del

Evening,

As nobody had responded i thought i would just go for it.

It took 2 hours to get it free from the car and then another 30 mins to get it out of the engine bay !!

Remove the rear deck lid - selection of 10mm bolts.

Two connectors for the motors that lift the spoiler, and three 10mm bolt to remove the lock.

Two 10mm and four 8mm bolts on the heat shield.

it is all reasonably easy to see but there was a lot of leaning over to get at it.

The car has a tubi exhaust with no secondary cats so there was more space to work, the bolts didnt look as if they were coming undone !

You need to fully undo and remove the adjuster bolt 13mm

Remove the pinch bolt slider bracket - 13mm

Remove both securing bolts again 13mm the heads are at the front, which would be much easier it the heads were facing the rear of the car.

as you push the alternator to the left the belt will come off the pulley, still not sure how it comes off but i will tackle that tomorrow,

I had to rock it and use some leverage to the starter out as it is a tight fit on the brackets.

Once loose the plastic cover / cooling duct is held on with three T15 bits, these where tricky to see when it was in place. i will change these for screw driver of allen head bolts.

Then it was a case of wriggling it around and trying to see where it would come out. The only place i could get it out was to drop it down rest it on the left drive shaft heat shield, then disconnect the handbrake cable and feed it out backwards.

I will strip it tomorrow and see what size the bearings are.

It wasn't hard, harder than the starter motor it just took longer as it was harder to get at. 

I need a new cooling hose, as mine was ripped, but i am not pay £200 for a hose !

 

del

 

in the UK it appears to cross reference with the original Ford Galaxy / VW Sharan / Seat Alhambra, in the UK.

Bosch 021 903 025C

0123 520 002

14v 150amp

Bearings are out

83B812

6203LHA

Regulator 

Bosch 1197 311 236

Belt was a pig, i managed to get it so that it was only around the power steering pump pulley.

i was a case of folding and pushing it between the pulley and the engine a gap about the same size as the belt !! Not sure how it goes back in, but i will fit it before the alternator goes back in.

The belt that came out was a Contitech 7pk 1570.

About £15 on ebay or £100 from lamborghini.

there was a spare in the car being 1568 and Eurospares list an after market part as 1575. For those that have changed theirs what length did you use ?

 

thanks

Don't forget to mention how important it is to put the serpentine belt on the AC pulley correctly. The pulley has more grooves than the belt, and if you put it on wrong, it will shred the belt and your engine will boil the coolant once it stops flowing, you'll lose power steering, and alternator power, and of course, AC. Check the manual for the correct groves to use. A number of YouTubers are soiling the Murci name because their mechanics put the belt on wrong and bad things happened after it broke (one lost an engine), and they aren't owning up to their mistake and instead making the engine appear unreliable.

On 11/28/2020 at 2:27 PM, Stimpy said:

Don't forget to mention how important it is to put the serpentine belt on the AC pulley correctly. The pulley has more grooves than the belt, and if you put it on wrong, it will shred the belt and your engine will boil the coolant once it stops flowing, you'll lose power steering, and alternator power, and of course, AC. Check the manual for the correct groves to use. A number of YouTubers are soiling the Murci name because their mechanics put the belt on wrong and bad things happened after it broke (one lost an engine), and they aren't owning up to their mistake and instead making the engine appear unreliable.

Mine was installed wrong even by my dealer a few years ago [the mechanic that did the install was let go shortly after], luckily it just ripped a groove off the belt instead of shredding the whole thing and I noticed it as soon as I got home from dealer when I went to look over their work.

It’s back on the car !!

On an earlier thread on it, there was the suggestion “ pull the heat shields” as if that is an easy job !!!!

the belt has 6 ridges and 7 grooves the steering 6/7 and the air con 7/8. I have left the groove nearest the engine on the air con pulley free. 
 

car starts and dash shows 14.6v so all is well. 
I will need to get the belt correctly tensioned, using the harmonic tool, this can be done with heat shields back in place.

before I screw it all together should there be something on the end of this ? I can’t  find a stray wire that needs a home, nor can I remember if it had a wire on it.

 

thanks

if you get a chance over the festive period could somebody squeeze their hand down the back and have feel to see if anything is connected to it ?

 

thanks

7 hours ago, del mar said:

if you get a chance over the festive period could somebody squeeze their hand down the back and have feel to see if anything is connected to it ?

 

thanks

If it's the same plug I'm thinking of then mine has a wire connected there and car wasn't charging at all with it disconnected. [Dealership had left it unplugged, I almost got stranded]

 

Edit: Not my picture but take a look here http://www.fluidmotorunion.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/bullheart9.jpg

thanks - that shows no wire connected to the threaded rod/bolt.

Is that stud where the shroud attaches for air pipe when driving and cooling off the alternator?