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Correct jacking point to lift the rear end of my 2004 Murcielago (and recommended hydraulic jack and jack stands) to replace my battery.


Brock
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Hi everybody! I hope that all is well. Can somebody please tell me the location of the Correct jacking point to lift the rear end of my 2004 Murcielago to replace my battery? The service manual I have has a diagram showing this jacking point, but I am not certain about its location, as said diagram lacks detail and measurements. I also need to know the correct jack stand points. Also, can somebody recommend a good reasonably priced rolling hydraulic jack, and jack stands for me to replace the battery in my 2004 Murcielago (hopefully, these are items that I can buy at Harbor Freight Tools, AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.)? Do I need to use tire chocks to immobilize the front tires when jacking the rear of my Murcielago? Finally, what is the best Die Hard Battery to use in my 2004 Murcielago (that is known to fit and work properly in Murcielagos)? I searched for answers to these questions on this forum, but wasn't able to find the answers that I need. As always, I greatly appreciate any help from the great and knowledgeable people on this forum. Best Regards--Brock

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I have always used the middle of the frame at the back, with the handle down i can slide the jack straight underneath the exhausts and jack it up. I can only get the half movement out of the handle but that is enough. Then put the axle stands on the corners of the frame, they are reinforced in that area.

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Here is where I jacked and supported mine. I rose the front of the car before jacking, because with the front being so low I wasn't sure if it would hit or not. I would also suggest the long stud guides to go into at least a couple of the wheel bolt holes before removing the wheel, otherwise you may scratch the inner wheel (especially true with CCB, I have approx 1/4 inch clearance on mine). The long studs help because of the weight too. As shown in the photo my first change was without the long studs using a board to support the wheel. Plus if you like a trickle charger port in the wheel well area you could do that too.

A few more tips shown in my folder too, scroll to the end: MURRRRCI! | Flickr

IMG_2188Jack.jpg

IMG_9850ToRemoveWheel.jpg

IMG_2240Trickleconnection.jpg

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The correct way to remove the wheels without risking damage to the rotors is to use wheel hanger tools:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsmBBf5W9WM

The dealer uses similar tools and your wood solution is clever but very height specific. 

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Yup you got that right, I was pretty much rookie on my first Murci battery change so I got 4 of these ready for next time.  Just make sure you get the thread correct. Nice video you posted too, of course they are useful in removing the wheel as well...but I am sure that's understood.

IMG_E9221[1].JPG

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Thanks so much for all the very helpful information guys. I'll let you know how the battery change goes when I get around to it. Take care, and be well--Brock

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  • 2 months later...

In addition to the prior posts, I've found any cheap-o small jack can be handy to hold the trailing edge of the battery while you slide it half way out to get the terminals off.  I jack it up to just the right height, slide the battery out to rest on it, get the terminals off, then lift the thing out.

I haven't tried Die Hard but can tell you I've had bad luck with Interstate's batteries in my '03.  I don't know if it's just bad luck, design flaw, or the alternator in some way, but I had two separate Interstate models gas around the positive post.  One was noticed before it became a big problem because I was already in there looking for a small oil leak.  Swapped it.  Second one was noticed when the car would not start because it had turned the entire positive terminal clamp to mush.  Of course since that assembly is part of the entire wiring harness, replacing it required the car going to a shop to put it on a lift because the bottom panel needs to come off allowing the harness to be replaced, since it connects to a fuse box on the firewall between engine / passenger compartment.

Anyway, most recent battery I threw in there was this Duracell AGM model from Batteries Plus:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/auto_light-truck/battery/duracell-ultra/sli34ragm

I installed that one May of 2018 and zero issues so far.  Have had the car for 12 years so I've gone through several battery change cycles.

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