Rear prop shaft bearing

Bugger !!!

The middle one, which does look a bit exposed and vulnerable, has fallen apart. I did think the was some vibration.

I don't have the space or tools to pull the engine so i am hoping the rear diff can come out and then slide the prop out and replace the bearings that way.

 

Whiteout has commented that the rear diff can come out with the engine still in place, has anybody actually done this and have any tips ?

Some of the bolts attaching the diff to the engine look bloody hard to get at.

Murcielago Engine Driveshaft Bearing Replacement Video | Lamborghini Talk (another board.com)

30 mins on the bench or 10 hours in the car !!! 

I have a lift so can get underneath the car.

 

thank you

If you pull out the exhaust, you can stand in the engine bay and have very good access to the rear diff.

Morning,

I did poke around a bit more last night,  and that seems a good shout.

Rear deck lid

exhaust 

Alternator out again !!

This should get me good access to the top bolts on the diff.

Eurospares list the bearings as £38 plus delivery plus tax, £100 for the pair

The bearings are SKF as per the above video £24 each !

I will need a slide hammer and internal bearing puller to get the gear box side out.

Might start this evening.

 

thanks

These bearings can be changed with the engine in the car.

The rear diff has to come off. The rear-most driveshaft dust shield has to be cut for removal of the driveshaft. 

 

 

i have changed the starter and alternator.

 

Where you you gauge this as an equivalent job, obviously it will take longer but more difficult ??

thanks

VERY time consuming. If I remember correctly, all of the accessories had to come off the motor, which is not the easiest thing in the world, to access all the diff bolts. 

2 hours in.

 

Rear deck lid off and silencer out, i have a Tubi one with no secondary cats. If i remove the bypass pipe from the LHS of the engine (it loops up and over to the right ) i should be able to touch all the diff bolts.

Alternator and bracket coming off will make it easier. Will post pictures as i go

3 hours in.

I ended up cutting most of the exhaust bolts off. The studs in all 4 clamps need removing, I am not paying £500 each for a brand new one !!

 

the rusty bar in the middle is the anti roll bar, the heat just destroys every painted surface !!

 

 

Looking good! I believe the reason the accessory mount had to come off of the LP was to clear the differential off of the studs on the engine (it has been years, so I could be wrong) as the initial plan was to only remove the alternator. Pre-LP could be different. 

If you feel like doing more work while the diff is out, you are two exhaust clamps away from replacing the primary cats. The factory v-band clamps are really nice, but corrosion will take out the studs. It's always a good idea to spray them with pb blaster prior to loosening the nuts. Luckily the nuts and studs are replaceable. But you can also use single bolt aftermarket v-band clamps for a bit quicker access. 

 

Alternator is out, 10 min job when the exhaust is out, it took me 2 hours with it in !!
Drive shafts are disconnected

Various heat shields are out of the way.

I just cant get to the RHS cat clamp nuts to cut them off it would be helpful if it was out of the way, perhaps i need a dremmel.

 

I can see / touch all of the bolts holding the diff to the engine casing. There is one missing - the hardest to get at one by the crank pully so that is a result. and there are a couple  of nuts missing from the rhs diff flange. I will change the seals on the diff whilst it is out.

The top ones are easy to get at, the bottom outside 2 are loose the bottom middle two look impossible to get off. I tried with a uj connector and  i felt that was going to snap, i bent a cheap extension bar,

 

Any tips on to get them ? Even out of the car the look difficult to get at.

 

Thanks

Not sure what has gone wrong with formatting but you get the idea !!!

You might need to unbolt the engine mounts (one center bolt on each side of the motor); remove rear diff mount and jack up the motor. Put a piece of wood (2x4) between the jack and the oil pan. Then you should have quite a bit more clearance. 

PB blaster and heat may get the exhaust clamp off the cat pipe. But a dremel with a cutoff wheel should also be able to make quick work of the stud. 

this is going to save the day !

Impact wiggle joint and an impact gun.

CASOMAN 3-Piece Impact Universal Joint Socket Swivel Set - Ball Spring Design 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Drive, CR-MO, U-Joint Sockets Swivel : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Done, Who is the man ...!!!!

 

The bottom nuts;

The last picture shows three of them.

The bottom nut is easy reached to put a socket on it

The middle one, you can get a normal open 17mm ring spanner on it.

The top nut is a ****er.

I had to remove the bolt holding the rear diff support mount and then the RHS engine mount bolt. The LHS id blocked by a nice looking after market oil line, and i couldn't get the socket on it. I could then jack up the RHS of the engine about half an inch which allowed me to feed a short 17mm socket and swivel joint over the frame support. No funny noises so that minor lift didn't appear to damage anything. They are all tight to crack off but once loose come off reasonably easy.

There is a 4th nut on the bottom  but you can get a socket on that.

There  is one behind the crank pully, access is tight but you can get a socket and swivel joint on it through the fins on the diff. There is one on the other side at the same level. Trickier as although you can get a socket on it the heat shielding makes access tricky. 17mm socket / swivel joint and a couple of short extensions.

The ones on the top either 17mm spanner or socket and swivel joint.

Getting the cat out would have made life easier but not essential.

 

I am hoping that once the diff support bracket is off the diff should pull back and off. Great feeling but still haven't actually got to the bit i need to replace !!

 

Bloody cars.

 

 

it is out !

If you could take the crank pully off that would make is a little easier to pull out but with a bit of twisting and jacking of the engine mount  it pulled back far enough to drop it through the frame.

 

There is noticable play on the prop as it wobbles against missing ball bearings

The end of the prop takes an 8mm bolt, so need a slide hammer and a better set of circlip pliers. 

There is a plastic cap on the front of the engine casing that the rear diff attaches to. The prop and bearings wont pull through that. I will probably have to cut it in half and then try to silicone it back into place. I will also try to make covers for the middle bearing as that is exposed to all manner of road debris.

Refitting appears to be, Fit the bearing into the gearbox housing slide the prop in and then push the bearing down the shaft into the middle support, i am not very confident that there is space mind. 

I am away this weekend so will take a rest from doing it,

 

 

 

Glad to see you got it out. 

For that dust cap, we cut mine and just reconnected it. It has to be removed to get the driveshaft out. A cover for the other bearings is a great idea as they are exposed and I think that is what leads to the failure. 

That little dust cap retails for....

$134 !!!!

 

Hahaha! Wow. 

Prop came out last night.

The gearbox end bearing has to be pulled through the central support bracket and then they come straight out the diff end hole. There is a little grub screw holding the end cap in place needs to be removed so the bearing will fit through the hole.

 

New bearings fitted and back in - 30 mins, just took 10 hours to get there !! Will take some pictures later.

I am getting bits powder coated whilst it is apart. The exhaust mounts are really rusty, i have managed to split 3 and will get the springs powder coated but the 4th doesnt want to come apart. Other than paying lamborghini hundreds for a couple of springs and a long bolt, are there any alternative offerings ??

 

thanks

Congrats! 

There is a guy on eBay making the exhaust springs for substantially less than used OEM parts sell for. 

For those in the UK, i have ordered the rear diff seals from Barnwell

Output seals AS60-80-8VIT29 

If you remove the flange to change them, the large "O" ring is BS247 VIT 75 FPM 

The input seal is A48-72-10VIT09.

£30 for them, i wont actually replace the input seal as it is bone dry there, but the output ones were leaking.

 

 

diff goes back in reasonably easy,, alternator back in and belt tensioned.

Waiting on some powder coated bits and the exhaust clamp studs removed  then it geos back together.