stephen
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Posts posted by stephen
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im sorry but where do these fit?
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Check for proper voltage at the compressor with the AC running. At idle, there is most likely enough voltage to engage the compressor clutch enough to provide cooling, but at higher RPM's, the compressor clutch begins to slip and therefore the cooling drops off. Dont run it like that anymore. It wont take long to burn the compressor clutch up and then you will be buying a new one. You can replace it if it indeed dies with a Sanden 508 compressor, and they can be purchased reasonably, but the install is still a pain in the ass.
Check all the wiring and relays associated with that circuit if you have low voltage at the compressor. You may end up having to install a "booster" relay closer to the compressor to provide proper voltage. It's technically an incorrect fix, but it's much easier than running new wires, or finding the connector that is creating the resistance somewhere between the front compartment and the compressor. I looked forever (seemed like it at least) for the culprit in my voltage drop scenario, and finally relented and added the booster relay. Thing works great.
For a Countach that is
thank you for that information about the clutch that is what we suspected.
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Uh.... You bought a Countach not a Cadi?
hahaha i tried to tell my dad that
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we started up the car(warmend up to peak temp) , the ac blew nice and frosty, then we drove for 1 mile it blew warm and then it was semi intermittent and after 10 miles we took it home. shut it down for 5 minutes and then it blew cold. the car has been converted 134 if it makes a difference but it has in been charges sins july.. any ideas?
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Do yourself a favor..... Get an optima.
hey it was free
when we got the car the guy threw in a new battery. -
haha mike we are using the same battery!
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when we bought our car we knew it needed work, but what would you suggest ignored to clean this thanks guys.
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sweet thanks guys!
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Roman, as we've discussed before, I'm technologically challenged so I can't do pics, but I will try to describe the steps as best as I can.
I'm also pretty sure I posted this when I originally did the changeover, but with the couple of crashes the site had the info. must have be lost.
Here goes:
The bulbs I used were Eurolites, but you can choose any brand that is available at your local autoparts store.
The bulb number is 194 and is available in various colours. I chose white as I wanted the brightest bulb possible.
The first step is to make sure you stretch and limber up as you are going to be asking your body to assume positions that an ordinary human can not achieve. (LOL)
If you have a lift, you could pull out the drivers seat to get more room, but I did mine the old fashioned way.
On the underside of the dash on the right side, there is a small panel that contains the switches for the headlights/ foglights /etc. Use a small phillips screwdriver to unscrew the panel and carefully swing it out of the way. This will give you access to the the gauges to the right of the tach. I can't remember if I removed the panel on the left side containing the rheostat but I think the access to that side was better.
The steering wheel on the CT is telescoping and I recommend extending it as far out as possible to give you maximum room.
If you are able to wedge yourself into the area with a flashlight or fluorescent worklight you will be able to see the pigtails that contain the bulbs. (NOTE!! If you use an incandescent work light you will probably get to experience first hand the smell of burning hair or flesh.)
You simply have to give them a partial turn and wiggle them out. If I remember correctly, there are two for the speedometer and tach. and one for each of the other gauges. (The one for the speedo was a pain and I wound up undoing the speedometer cable to get access to the upper bulb.)
One major tip as I mentioned before that the LED bulbs I used were polarity sensitive so I recommend putting the bulb into the pigtail and turning the light on prior to reinstalling it in the gauge. (Some of the newer LEDs may not have this problem but the ones I installed did) If the bulb does not light up just give it a 180 degree turn and it should solve your problem.
Reassemble the items you removed ,
visit your chiropractor................
and in a couple of days you should be back to driving.
One last tip. I found that if I turned on both the side/marker lights and the headlight switch at the same time, my dashlights were brighter than if I just turned on one or the other.
Best of luck.
D.
thank you that is just what we needed! thanks mike i have talked to raymond but he was no help at all. it is nice having a 16 year old son to bend in to those places!
thanks guys!!!!!!!
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would these bulbs work? http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/sto...mini-wedge.html
thanks
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roy this is absolutely amazing congratz
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Stephen,
What vacuum line are you refering to? The cold start/warmup cycle (and warm up RPM) is controlled by the "warm up regulator" (regulates pressure to the injectors), the cold start valve" , (injects extra fuel for enrichment into the manifold after the throttle valve) and the "auxillary air control valve", allows a quantity of air to bypass the throttle valve). All of these are actuated by thermal (bi-metallic) electrical devices, not vacuum controls.
If you need some info on the K-jetronic fuel system, I can send you a few pdf's of info if you give me an address in a PM.
The start cycle does run the engine at a higher RPM for a bit of time, but it does that to help to ensure an adequate warm up cycle has been completed before you start driving and subsequently put a load upon the engine before it is ready. I know it is a pain when trying to run with modern cars, but just think of it as an insurance policy that keeps you from putting your foot into the throttle before the engine is ready for it. Let the engine warm up, then drive moderately until the transmission warms up also. Then ..... Have some fun!!!!.
Dennis
rite rite we dont mind warming it up but the only thing is isnt 3000 a little high for the warm up idol? because with that little oil moving through the engine wouldnt 2000 be better?
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Does it always idle at 3000 rpm even after warmup? That seems very strange.....
When I start mine cold, it first goes up to about 3000 rpm, then drops as the engine warms. It finally settles down and idles at around 1300 rpm. A bit too fast IMHO, so one of these days, I'll get myself a vacuum gauge and reset the idle to what the books says: 1000rpm +/- 50rpm.
yep thats what we were referring to
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hi guys some of you may or know me, but my dad had recently purchased a white 88 car out of ohio, and we are new here. we had a question about the cold start function of the injected cars. do you guys disconnect the vacuum hose letting it idol lower so it can warm up or leave it and let it idol at 3k? thanks guys i can tell more questions will arise. thanks again
countachvirgin- Greg and Stephen
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Welcome to Lambopower.com.... Im Roman, the resident White Countach obsessive compulsive....
fcuking Beautiful...
thank you your kind words are greatly appreciated
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ahh i ment the 266 QV built
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hi guys we are new here and this is our story
After 4 years of looking we found our car. it was bought in january 2010 in ohio. it is the 266 Countach ever built. the story behind the car is it was bought by christina Onasis for her boy friend in 1987. he had the car for 3 months untill she found out he was cheating on her and sold the car to a doctor in Ohio and it has resided there since january of 1988. we believe this is the only blanco polo park 1988 QV ever.
my dad and i when we were about to take it out for the first time
greg and stephen
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i know there is one in Potomac MD
New Bearing TO Collars
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ahh thankyou as a nubie CT owner its nice to learn these things