SDS

Make sure you cleaned thoroughly any areas where the mirror leaked. The fluid in the auto dimming mirrors is a combination of hydrochloric acid and tungsten oxide. It's some very nasty, corrosive stuff and will do damage.

Without touching them, nothing. The specs are unique to those two cars. If the centerbores are enlarged, they will fit a SLR.

20 x 8.5 ET 32 Front 20 x 11.5 ET 46 Rear

I have 4 remaining sets...1 Diamond cut and 3 Anthracite.

As long as it has standard brakes. The rears will not clear the calipers with ceramics.

Gallardo/R8 Correct

I need these last few wheels gone before November. Heading back east and don't want to ship them back with me. IN-80's in either finish - Anthracite w/machined lip or full Diamond Cut - $2900 obo per set. This is well below cost to move them out quickly. PM me if you have any questions.

Mine... Domo approved 6 Speed...

There are many different variables that come into play here. Everyone talks about reducing rolling weight when dealing with wheels. Yes obviously less is better and for every 1lb in reduction is akin to removing 6lbs of static weight from the car. However this is more applicable to handling characteristics - turn in, compression, rebound etc etc. When talking about dyno numbers, acceleration, and decelleration, moment of inertia - measurement of how much force it take to spin or stop the wheel from spinning - is the key to the equation. If you want to compare a 19" to a 20" wheel for example, you have to take into consideration the construction of each one. What type of design? How is the weight of the construction material distributed throughout of the wheel? Is the majority of the weight near the center, spread fairly even throughout or is there a large mass of material torwards the outside edge? Hypothetically speaking, if the Cassiopea and Callisto weighted exactly the same, because of the design of the Callisto and how the material is distributed, it would dyno slightly lower in certain areas on the graph because it would have a higher moment of inertia to start moving. It would be a fairly small difference however. These effects would most likely not alter the peak power on a dyno, granted you pull through the peak point where power naturally begins to drop off. With your car specifically Allan, I would expect to see a very slight 2 - 4hp / 3 - 5 lb/ft loss on the low end due to the slight increase in size from the tire. Your peak number should not be effected and on the street, the much larger contact patch will outweigh any minor power loss. If you were to run a 19" wheel setup with the equivalent 19" Tires to your 20's the effect would be the same. This is really an apples to oranges comparison as you could compare 19" Wheel X to 20" Wheel Y to 18" Wheel Z and have competely different answers. Just remember YRMV.

Duely noted...I appreciate the feedback.

I put my response but I'd like input from mod's/admin on how to approach situations such as the one in the Gallardo forum. Last thing I want is anyone to think I'm biased and only trying to make a buck or end up like the other problem a few days ago. Let me know. Thanks.

That too...still trying to get over the jetlag.

Not a great way to think. Just because a tire sidewall says it is 295/30-19, does not mean its measurements are exact. As I like to put it - A tire size is not another tire size. The PS2 in OEM numbering is larger in diameter than the Pirelli. As sensitive as the front differential is, you should either order a matching set of 4 from the same type and model or match the rears to the front. I've seen a Murcie kill the front diff doing what you're trying to do. If you go forth with your plan and mis match the set and have any drivetrain issues, you'll most likely face a warranty denial. Best of luck.

Are you changing just the rears or all 4? I really hope its all otherwise you're asking for some potential headaches.

I think thats it...Unless I'm allowed to pin messages to the top. Thanks