debriga
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Posts posted by debriga
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Is your original camshaft worn so badly that it cannot simply be reground with a slightly smaller base circle diameter? It is very hard to believe that the cam could bear so much wear, in so few miles, that it could be classed as a total failure unless the oiling system failed. Or unless the proper initial fire-up and run in was not adhered to. If it can be reground by any reputable cam grinder, without a lot of material being removed from it, then you only have to concern yourself with how to make it all work together. Adjust the valve clearance and degree the cam to ensure it matches the opposite banks cam. How you need to set the valve lash will dictate how your mechanic needs to approach the problem.
Regrinding the cam should not set you back more than $350 USA dollars if it does not require welding. Shim cups, and or valve stem lash caps, can be custom made much cheaper than what you are being quoted to rectify the problem.
Good luck, and I hope you will find yourself in Nirvani on your maiden voyage!!
they want 500 euro + taxes to fix with welding the old left intake camshaft and ten days of time.how much they ask there in the USA for the work on a camshaft?
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I just went through some spinal surgery, and the end result of it is, I now have too much time on my hands to collect parts for the Countach to install when I can once again swing a wrench. But now, so it seems, you have all confused me a bit, and so has the TAV's please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors posts for their parts diagrams.
Everyone claims the anniversary model is the best handling Countach of all. Why is that? Is it a difference in parts used, or is it from different alignment specifications, or is it a combination of both? To answer that, I tried to look up the suspension pieces that could alter handling. Now that I did that, Iam even more confused. Maybe missing something that should be obvious? To adhere to brevity, I only refer to rear suspension at this time.
Anniversary 84-86 87
Lower control arms (#22) 005213175 same as ani 006224216
upper control arm (#42) 005209537 same as ani same as ani
Lower strut pipe (#34) 005224213 005213574 same as ani
upper strut pipe (#36) 005213572 same as ani same as ani
The parts columns didn't display correctly. Should be three columns .. #1 +the anniversary, @2 the 84 to 86 model year, #3 + the 87 model year. Look close and you will see the different columns.
Three out of four items are the same, but one item (not even the same item) is different in two different series of the Countach. Did it confuse you as much as it did me?
So where does the handling diference come from when all the different Countach variations are accounted for since the early 80's? Or do we just assume the anniversaries are better handling because they are newer?
I'm geting ready to do a full suspensiopn rebuild as soon as I am physically able to do so. I want the car to handle as well as possible, so if their are only minor changes between my 87 and the annie's, I would like to upgrade my car to the latest and greatest. So, does anyone really know what the actual differences were between the QV series and the anniversaries were in the suspension department? Is it just alighnment specs or actual hardware changes?
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I just went through some spinal surgery, and the end result of it is, I now have too much time on my hands to collect parts for the Countach to install when I can once again swing a wrench. But now, so it seems, you have all confused me a bit, and so has the TAV's please check with our franchised lamborghini dealer sponsors posts for their parts diagrams.
Everyone claims the anniversary model is the best handling Countach of all. Why is that? Is it a difference in parts used, or is it from different alignment specifications, or is it a combination of both? To answer that, I tried to look up the suspension pieces that could alter handling. Now that I did that, Iam even more confused. Maybe missing something that should be obvious? To adhere to brevity, I only refer to rear suspension at this time.
Anniversary 84-86 87
Lower control arms (#22) 005213175 same as ani 006224216
upper control arm (#42) 005209537 same as ani same as ani
Lower strut pipe (#34) 005224213 005213574 same as ani
upper strut pipe (#36) 005213572 same as ani same as ani
Three out of four items are the same, but one item (not even the same item) is different in two different series of the Countach. Did it confuse you as much as it did me?
So where does the handling diference come from when all the different Countach variations are accounted for since the early 80's? Or do we just assume the anniversaries are better handling because they are newer?
I'm geting ready to do a full suspensiopn rebuild as soon as I am physically able to do so. I want the car to handle as well as possible, so if their are only minor changes between my 87 and the annie's, I would like to upgrade my car to the latest and greatest. So, does anyone really know what the actual differences were between the QV series and the anniversaries were in the suspension department? Is it just alighnment specs or actual hardware changes?
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"And, as you mentioned, Longstone Tire carries them, but I bet the shipping from England can be pretty pricey!!"
I purchased two of the 345/35's from Longstone last spring. "Free Carriage" as they said, shipped airfreight to my post office box. Cheaper than what Tire Rack would give them to me for.
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Sorry, should have clarified that they are for a QV
Tire Rack is out of the front P-Zero Assimetrico's, and Longstone referred me to Lucas Automotive <[email protected]> here in the USA. I just had Fedex deliver two of them yesterday.
Good luck!!!!
Dennis
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Hi, I have been busy so have not been able to spend much time on the site recently.
I took my LP400S out for a drive last weekend and noticed a small issue. The car starts well enough, and runs at 4000+ rpm pefectly when warm, but it has issues with small throttle openings, warm or cold. Basically if I crack the throttle 1/16th to 1/8th in neutral the car dies. The car is also beginning to stall at low revs when rolling more than it used to. I know the 45DCOEs have a small issue with a bypass valve, this usually meant that the car would have a slight hiccup when crossing 4000 rpm with the throttle wide open, I could live with that but not with this.
It does unfortunately sit a bit, I did pull the jets from one of the carbs and saw no residue, however maybe I have only driven the car 100 miles since last fall.
Other than pulling apart the carbs and cleaning all the jets (something I may do this weekend), is there anything else I should look at? The car is bone stock, 30 years old with 5500 km on the clock.
I was wondering if the carbs are getting out of synch (the linkage has seen little use and has never been adjusted in the last 5 years I have owned the car) or if the points are wearing out on the distributors, but I suspect the latter would manifest itself as a missfire at high revs (revs are not a problem at all).
Using higher revs when moving the car around will eventually kill the clutch, so I want to sort this out, she has been fantastic otherwise.
I would tend to spend my troubleshooting time on the ignition rather than the carburation. Even if you had problems with 2 carburetors (4 cylinders effected) the other eight correctly running cylinders should be able to keep the engine from dying.
I assume this car still has a point based ignition system, which also has a capacitor (some call it a condensor) in parrallel with the points. If the capacitor case has a poor or non-existing ground, the car will start and run fine until a load is placed on the engine. Then it will fall on it's face or die when the throttle is opened abruptly. If the engine continues to run with a very slow opening of the throttle and dies with a quick throttle opening, suspect the condensor and/or it's ground connection.
Another issue to consider would be the integrity of the ignition coil. It can react much the same as a condensor with a faulty ground. Your first tipoff to a defective coil entails symptoms that are normally heat related. Runs fine while cold but starts acting up when engine compartment heat starts rising. But!!!! not always compartmentalised like this!!
Always diagnose the ignition system before you condemn the fuel system. Most people want to condemn the fuel system for their problems, but more often than not it is the ignition system that bears the fault. Sort it out with a fine tooth comb, then if the problem persists it will then be time to inspect the fuel system.
Dennis
PS The carburetor jets have absoutely nothing to do with low rpm problems. They do not come into play until the engine RPM's have increased enough to go beyond the carb's idle and midrange curcuits. You might want to also check for a vacuum leak into the intake manifold also. Good luck!!!
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Which filter?? Rocket science versus common sense. Big holes versuses little holes. Get your mind out of the gutter, this is about filters and oil flow, not hole size!!!
Very few engines have a main oil feed gallery that exceeds 5/8th's (.625") and even the cheapest of filters have an intake cross sectional opening area greater than that. The physical openings on even the poorest of filters is more than adequate. The output orofice of most any filter is also of sufficient size to ensure adequate flow for the engine's needs.
So what makes the difference between different brands of filters. Nothing more or less than the total area of filtering medium and the mediums resistance to fluid passage and it's micron trapping rating. Sadly, most of these ratings and values are never made public. One needs a filter that entraps all that can be trapped while not diminishing the flow and/or pressure of th oiling system. User a good quality name brand filter and you should be alright. As far as the Countash QV CT goes, Mann #930/13 or Bosch 72175, one shoud be able to find them or a legitimate cross referance
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debriga, I want to thank you for the info! I sent a reply email last night after 9pm. Its nice to have a community of people helping each other. This is a view of owning the car I never thought about.
THANKS AGAIN !
Thank you for your kind words. I am very happy to know that I had some knowledge or resources to share with another that might have helped them.
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OK....
Idle when the car is off- 500 (I have no idea WHY this is, but its like this on every countach Ive seen....)
Cold start Idle- 2200
Warm idle 1500~1600. (I think it goes a BIT lower when it REALLY gets warmed up... But any much lower and I think it would stall)
Air temp is about 65 degrees.... warm idle took about 5 minutes or so to kick in.
If your normal idle is 1500-1600 RPM in the climate your car runs in, something is out of tolerance or mis-adjusted. Your injected engine will idle quite nicely at 900 RPM's with optimum being around 1000 RPM's. If you need your injection serviced, do not go to Lamborghini. Find a good reputable shop that has been around for ages and sprcializes in "80's vintage Mercedes six cylinders. Why Mercedes? Because you have two six cylinder Bosch designed Mercedes fuel injection systems on your pride and joy. Even a Volvo shop should be able to sevice the injection as they used this system also.
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My '87 turns at 2000 RPM on high idle and dops to 1200 on low idle. The low idle is still a touch too high for me, and when I am able to once again do a little work on the old girl, I will be taking it down to about 1000 RPM low idle. The car will actually idle quite nicely at 900 RPM (the cams are really not all that agressive!) but takes a little more finesse with the clutch to get rolling in tight spots.
One does NOT adjust high idle by disconnecting a vacuum line!!
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hi guys some of you may or know me, but my dad had recently purchased a white 88 car out of ohio, and we are new here. we had a question about the cold start function of the injected cars. do you guys disconnect the vacuum hose letting it idol lower so it can warm up or leave it and let it idol at 3k? thanks guys i can tell more questions will arise. thanks again
countachvirgin- Greg and Stephen
Stephen,
What vacuum line are you refering to? The cold start/warmup cycle (and warm up RPM) is controlled by the "warm up regulator" (regulates pressure to the injectors), the cold start valve" , (injects extra fuel for enrichment into the manifold after the throttle valve) and the "auxillary air control valve", allows a quantity of air to bypass the throttle valve). All of these are actuated by thermal (bi-metallic) electrical devices, not vacuum controls.
If you need some info on the K-jetronic fuel system, I can send you a few pdf's of info if you give me an address in a PM.
The start cycle does run the engine at a higher RPM for a bit of time, but it does that to help to ensure an adequate warm up cycle has been completed before you start driving and subsequently put a load upon the engine before it is ready. I know it is a pain when trying to run with modern cars, but just think of it as an insurance policy that keeps you from putting your foot into the throttle before the engine is ready for it. Let the engine warm up, then drive moderately until the transmission warms up also. Then ..... Have some fun!!!!.
Dennis
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When I had my sills redone I did not have to remove the seat. The screws are on the bottom and can be gotten to.
One screw fore and aft along the lower part of the sill cover. The rest under the weather stripping for the lower door seal.
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Actually, that is a very easy thing to do. Use an old, dull valve guide reamer (obtainable through an automotive machine shop if you don't have one yourself, and often times quite free of charge), chuck it into a drill motor set on "reverse", spray the rubber biscuit with silicone spray and pass the reamer through the original holes in the rubber spacer until the new wire will just enter the hole with some silicone spray used as a lubricant. The actual rated size of the reamer really is not very important as long as it is somewhat larger than the desired finished hole size (the rubber expands while cutting, and the hole is reduced in size when the reamer is removed.
Remove just enough material in the donut to allow the new wire to slip through with silicone lubrication applied. When the lube has dried/evaporated, the wires will stay in place just as you wish them to be positioned.
It's not hard, but it is somewhat time consuming!!
PS. Don't forget that you must also increase the inside diameter, in the same manner, of the the spark plug boot also.
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I made a new set from MSD wires on an old 400i a while ago. The only real PITA was drilling out the black rubber donut wire separators to retain the stock look.
Actually, that is a very easy thing to do. Use an old, dull valve guide reamer (obtainable through an automotive machine shop if you don't have one yourself, and often times quite free of charge), chuck it into a drill motor set on "reverse", spray the rubber biscuit with silicone spray and pass the reamer through the original holes in the rubber spacer until the new wire will just enter the hole with some silicone spray used as a lubricant. The actual rated size of the reamer really is not very important as long as it is somewhat larger than the desired finished hole size (the rubber expands while cutting, and the hole is reduced in size when the reamer is removed.
Remove just enough material in the donut to allow the new wire to slip through with silicone lubrication applied. When the lube has dried/evaporated, the wires will stay in place just as you wish them to be positioned.
It's not hard, but it is somewhat time consuming!!
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I only wear a 9 1/2 to 10, e to ee shoe and have never found a casual shoe that will allow me to drive the Countach without at least removing the right shoe. I have two pairs of inexpensive Rockport leather mocosons that work quite well for me, but I still want a more casual shoe that I can drive with, and not have to change out of, when I get to my destination.
The problem for me is that the left side of the right foot hangs up on the underside of the brake pedal when I try to decelerate quickly. It gets a bit scary at times when I get caught in traffic and have no room to manouver. Wiggle the foot free and then hit the binders! Pray for help, and then pray to say thank you if all went well!!
I really don't think the problem is so much a narrow pedal box as it is shoe design and construction in this day and age. It seems any type of sport/casual/ and or other type of shoe follows the same construction pattern. The upper is bonded to te lower half at just about midlevel of the widest part of the foot a bit behind the front toe. The seam makes the widest part of the foot even wider using this pattern.
The rubbery type of material used in the bonding of the uppers to the lowers doesn't help matters at all. It is usually a "gummy" substance that hangs up on anything, especially the inside of the other shoe. Seems to me that the bonding seam should either be above or below the widest part of the foot in driving shoes to avoid any potential "hangups". Why doesn't any shoe manufacturer do that????
In the mean time, my moccosins and right shoe removal will just have to do.
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Major thanks to all of you that replied!!!!! These examples are quite good enough to to blow up and re-pixelate into a very large print. Now, all I have to do is convince my brother that I should be allowed a few moments of intimate time with his commercial 60 inch printer and digitised embroidery machine!! Thanks to all for replying!!!
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Come on guys, that poor coyote is more afraid of you than you are or it. He wants a peaceful life and a full belly, just like you do.
Yes, he hunts in order to eat. But he will only expend enough energy in order to take down prey that gives him back more than the energy he expends. That means he only looks towards very small game that he doesn't have to fight excessively or work too hard for. These dudes have to be starving to even consider going after any animal over twenty pounds. Even taking down a small deer is uncommon for them unless it is during a very harsh winter.
They are a very smart, resourceful, and cunning animal. I was priveleged in my youth to have a pup from a miniture border collie/coyote that a local game warden bred back in the sixties. A wonderful dog that still exibited all the wild feral instincts that we all find fasinating and different from that of a totally domesticated dog. If I could figure out how to breed another like that, it would be the only breed I would ever consider having again!!
Why do you fear them? They are more afraid of you than you are of them. They are quite useful and beneficial to our environment. I hate having to set mousetraps in my rural home setting and the coyotes help me by eliminating many of those despicable creatures before they try infiltrating my home.
Coyotes are a good animal to have around if you understand what they need to survive. They keep the small critters under control and are quite benifical if you take a few small precautions in order to keep them from becoming a pest. Keep your garbage emptied and your small (under 20 pounds) pets indoor after dusk. Dogs are a minor issue, but cats are prime prey for them. Watch your pets and take care of them!!
The problem times occur after a rabbit/mice/small animal breeding explosion has come and is now waning. Too many predators and too little new food sources. Watch the natural cycle between predator and prey, keep an eye on your pets, and all will be well.
No coyote. or wolf. or fox. or canine. will expend more energy to obtain food than what the food will return in nutritional value. Small and easy prey is what they are after. The bigger prey is only an alternative if they are starving. Even then, it is usually only if there is a group of them that distributes the energy needed to make a kill amongst several or more.
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I'm more interested in originality , however I'm sure your mods are a giant leap forward and you have all the originals stashed .
Originality, ...... how important is that?
If a totally stock and original car is painted a color (high end paint and body work applied that enhances the car's basic appeal) that the factory did not use, does that diminish it's value? If one uses modern parts and systems to enhance the drivability and reliability of the car, does that detract from it's value? Does one have to put up with archaic and obsolete original sytems that are prone to failure in order to maintain their vehicle's value?
Who determines what modifications will, or will not, detract from the vehicle's inherit value??
We all know that the Countach and earilier cars from Lamborghini are nor stellar examples representing current technology. They are somewhat prone to eletrical failures and more. If one rectifies these problems with modern parts in order to drive one of these beasts without having to worry about breaking down somewhere along the road, does that mean the value of the car has been compromised?
Who or whom decides what is permissable, and what is not, concerning the originality of all parts used to keep the car usable? What does "stock" really mean. Obviously, it means different things to different folks. One group says this alteration is permissable, another says "no way". If one should vary from the norm in rebuilding one of these great cars, how does he determine if he is enhancing the car's value or detracting from it??
I am not referring to an extremist's Concours condition, but to a condition that most would be happy to have. These older Lambo cars are all somewhat rare, parts are becoming quite rarer, So, what can be replaced, what can not, and who decides all this?
Again, if the car is perfect in all respects, how much would a "perfect" paint job detract from the cars value if it was a color that is not "stock". A color that enhances the car like no original factory color ever did. For those that wonder, a suggestion is candy apple burgundy with a gold and silver underbase with platinum and red pearl imbedded and top coated with clear. The car would otherwise be totally stock.
Would this detract from it's value?? The color could always be changed back if one wanted. Just the cost for paint.
What do you think???
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OK, I am an official search dufus! I have searched and searched but can't find what I am looking for!!
I am ltrying to find high resolution files of the Lamborghini shield that are of a high enough quality to be used on a high end ebroidery machine (quality hats, shirts, ect.) and for enlarging to a 5 by 7 foot garage floor inlay. Any help or links towards a site that might help would be most appreciated!! The results are for personal usage, not a commercial venture that might infringe upon copyrights or patents. The quality of the image is of the highest priority. Any help in this quest will be rewarded with a hat or shirt or two that bears the image supplied.
Thanks to any and all for any help in this matter!!
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Kurt has informed me he does not have enough of the joints (#35 in the rear suspension TAV)) to complete all the orders and is presently awaiting on another shipment to arrive. I am also short two of the #39 heim joints with the offset shank.
I also questioned the EBAY sales, but he said that anyone buying these would also have to wait for the above mentioned parts to arrive. I'm sure I would do business a bit differently than this, but in his favor, I do have to say he does always honor his commitments, even if that might be a bit tardy.
I also am in an ASAP situation and am anxiously awaiting the remaining parts!!
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The following is something I just received. I have not had the time to verify if it is for real or not, so just take it for what it is worth at face value.
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["Subject: Deport her to America
The Rambo Granny of Melbourne, Australia
Gun-toting granny Ava Estelle, 81, was so ticked-off when two thugs raped her 18-year-old granddaughter that she tracked the unsuspecting ex-cons down... And shot off their testicles.
The old lady spent a week hunting those men down -and, when she found them, she took revenge on them in her own special way, saidMelbourne police investigator Evan Delp.
Then she took a taxi to the nearest police station, laid the gun on the sergeant's desk and told him as calm as could be: 'Those bastards will never rape anybody again, by God.'
Cops say convicted rapist and robber Davis Furth, 33, lost both his penis and his testicles when outraged Ava opened fire with a 9-mm pistol in the hotel room where he and former prison cell mate Stanley Thomas, 29, were holed up.
The wrinkled avenger also blew Thomas' testicles to kingdom come, but doctors managed to save his mangled penis, police said. 'The one guy, Thomas, didn't lose his manhood, 'but the doctor I talked to said he won't be using it the way he used to,' Detective Delp told reporters. 'Both men are still in pretty bad shape, 'but I think they're just happy to be alive after what they've been through.'!
The Rambo Granny swung into action August 21 after her granddaughter Debbie was carjacked and raped in broad daylight by two knife-wielding creeps in a section of town bordering on skid row.. 'When I saw the look on my Debbie's face that night in the hospital, 'I decided I was going to go out and get those bastards myself ''cause I figured the Law would go easy on them,' recalled the retired library! Worker.. 'And I wasn't scared of them, either - because I've got me a gun and I've been shootin' all my life. 'And I wasn't dumb enough to turn it in when the law changed about owning one.'
So, using a police artist's sketch of the suspects and Debbie's description of the sickos, tough-as-nails Ava spent seven days prowling the wino-infested neighborhood where the crime took place till she spotted the ill-fated rapists entering their flophouse hotel. 'I knew it was them the minute I saw 'em, but I shot a picture of 'em anyway' and took it back to Debbie and she said sure as hell, it was them,' the oldster recalled...
'So I went back to that hotel and found their room and knocked on the door, and the minute the big one opened the door, I shot 'em right square between the legs,'right where it would really hurt 'em most, you know. 'Then I went in and shot the other one 'as he backed up pleading to me to spare him.' Then I went down to the police station and turned myself in..'
Now, baffled lawmen are trying to figure out exactly how to deal with the vigilante granny.. 'What she did was wrong, and she broke the law, but it is difficult to throw an 81-year-old woman in prison,' Det. Delp said, 'especially when 3 million people in the city want to nominate her for Mayor.'
DEPORT HER TO AMERICA - WE NEED HER!
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Australian Gun Law Update
Here's a thought to warm some of your hearts...
From: Ed Chenel , A police officer in Australia
Hi Yanks, I thought you all would like to see the real figures from Down Under.
It has now been 12 months since gun owners in Australia were forced by a new law to surrender 640,381 personal firearms to be destroyed by our own government, a program costing Australia taxpayers more than $500 million dollars.
The first year results are now in:
Australia-wide, homicides are up 6.2 percent,
Australia-wide, assaults are up 9.6 percent;
Australia-wide, armed robberies are up 44 percent (yes, 44 percent)!
In the state of Victoria alone, homicides with firearms are now up 300 percent. (Note that while the law-abiding citizens turned them in, the criminals did not and criminals still possess their guns!)
While figures over the previous 25 years showed a steady decrease in armed robbery with firearms, this has changed drastically upward in the past 12 months, since the criminals now are guaranteed that their prey is unarmed.
There has also been a dramatic increase in break-ins and assaults of the elderly, while the resident is at home.
Australian politicians are at a loss to explain how public safety has decreased, after such monumental effort and expense was expended in 'successfully ridding Australian society of guns..' You won't see this on the American evening news or hear your governor or members of the State Assembly disseminating this information.
The Australian experience speaks for itself. Guns in the hands of honest citizens save lives and property and, yes, gun-control laws affect only the law-abiding citizens.
Take note Americans, before it's too late!
Will you be one of the sheep to turn yours in? WHY? You will need it."]
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Whether this is account is real or not, I'm sure many can relate to it's message!! Take it for what it is or is not.
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NOS on the Countach is more important to me.
Just as it should be Peter. But for those who can't locate NOS, why should one pay such a ridiculous premium just for a name ?
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Considering an aftermarket exhaust is thousands and thousands up to $10,000 or so (kreissigg is 5-8000), And original sport exhaust with Ansa on it is a bargain at thousand or two.
Don't hold your breath for a couple of hundred dollar exhaust, not going to happen.
Plus keep in mind, it's not just a bunch of pipes. It was made/designed specifically for, and to fit, the Countach, design for the V-12, and the sound is worth it alone.
In all humor, don't be cheap with a Countach,
I tend to think the aftermarket exhausts offered for the Countach, and most of the other high end exotics, is somewhat of a major rip off. The manufacturers of these high end exhaust systems know that most of their clientele is somewhat ignorant about what they are purchasing. The manufacturer tends to claim these are a "tuned system". Excuse me, tuned to what? Tuned for a broad torque curve or a specific RPM range? Tuned for what type of intake system? Tuned for a stock or modified valve timing curve. Turbo, supercharged, or naturally aspirated? Or is just for an otherwise "stock" application?
If it is just for a stock engine, only one correct working prototype needs to be made. After that, it is just labor and materials to assemble another set of headers, mufflers, cats (if needed or requested), and interconnected tubing to bring it all together. Once the design is finalized, it should take no more than a day for a decent welder to put a whole system togather. Let's say he is slow and needs some extra money. Then it is two days to fabricate.
Two days labor for the best of the best welders is less than $500 USD. The best materials needed to build the headers is less than $1000 USD. Really high quality mufflers and cats will be below $2000 USD. Interconnecting tubing will be less than $500 USD. The total, which is higher than need be for any manufacturer to produce, comes to $4000 USD for a quality system that would go from exhaust port to talpipe.
What slays me is that so many exotic car owners will justify spending enough money on a simple set of tubes and silencers for their exhaust as what most of the masses will spend half as much again on a fully engineered new vehicle (including the engine and all it's relevant engineering and production costs). How can routing multiple tubing runs into a common receiver pipe come close to requiring the price for a replacement engine for any of the econo boxes? Yes, the exhaust is a low volume specialty item and is somewhat labor intensive. But not more than two days worth of low cost labor.
I am heading for an independent fabricator that services the race car community to build my exhaust system when the time comes. I doubt I will pay anywhere near the same price as for a Tubie, Ansa, or whatever and will have the same gains and can specify the sound/tonal quality I want.
You pay for quality, that is a given. But to pay more than what is required, needed, or justified is just a gift to the supplier!!!
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Have killer whales ever been known to attack a human? I've never heard of that happening. Attacking boats maybe, but not just a human in the water. Or am I wrong . . . ?
I have never heard of an attack in the wild towards a human ever happening. What I can relate here is based on personal experience while scuba diving in the waters of Puget Sound. I have encountered killer whales while diving on three different occasions back in the seventies and early eighties. Each time, I was with a large group of fellow divers which might have been what caused them to notice us in the first place. The diver's common consensus back then was that they meant no harm whatsoever to a person in their waters. The problem being was their intense, immense, curiosity and intelligence. They studied us as much as we tried to study them. Being the intelligent creatures that they are, and wishing to interact with us, close contact would become inevitable if one remained in the water. The problem that would arise was soley due to a size difference between a human and them. They wanted to play and become aquainted with us, but it is really hard for a two to four thousand pound super dolphin to play with a 165 pound human and not cause some type of unintentional injury to him. So, for the sake of safety (and that means the diver's safety), we left the water immediately when these beautiful creatures arrive on the scene.
Even after the divers left the water, it always amazed me how these loveable creatures would surface next to the boat and look into our eyes much the same as we would look into theirs. Each seeking to know the other. A connection between two species that actually desires some contact with each other. They allowed us to touch them, much like one would pet their dog, and seemed to enjoy this interaction with us.
They are a remarkable entity and I will never forget how lucky I have been to know some of them. I just wish I was spry enough to go back and see them once again.
Shadowman and Discovery Automotive...
in Automobili Lamborghini
Posted
This is truly a sad state of affairs, no doubt. I am somewhat surrprised no one has yet compared this incident to the forum discussion " Dealership crashed my car!!" on a related site known as Lamborghini Tal*. Same thing happeningl but with a large, and supposedly reputable dealership.
Sure would be nice if people could just admit "Yah, I just fcuk@d up".