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About debriga

  • Birthday 09/20/1951

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    Vancouver, Washington

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  1. I have a complete set of Limey's reproductions that I won't use. Instead, I used the heims chad has been selling with a .2215" spacer on each side. You can get stainless tubing that is 18mm OD and 14 mm ID and simply slice .2215" off for one spacer, or as many as you need. I parted mine with the lathe. I will sell Limey's joints to anyone that might want them as they will only collect dust here in my shop.
  2. Thanks for the info guys. Looking into this a bit suggests you guys are right about a different alternator mount. The length of the pipe/tube suggests it is a Yanmar tupe of alternator mount. I was considering removing it to mount a better alternator but I think it is going to fit without doing so. Thanks guys, you are the best!
  3. When I removed the alternator in my 87 injected CT, I found this piece of heavy wall tubing (pipe) that is welded to the frame. Nothing was attached to it and it appears to be factory installed. Does anyone else have this in their car or does anyone know what it's purpose in life is supposed to be??? It's underneath the alternator and can be seen from underneath the car or with a mirror in the engine compartment.
  4. Looks like a MSD Blaster SS coil from what I can see. I don't have any info close by as to mounting positions for this coil, but it does appear to be on it's side in the pics. Might not be an issue with this coil, you would need to verify that with MSD techs. I don't know how this coil is cooled, so more questions for MSD. Bypassing all that, do you have any spark output while cranking?
  5. , I have the MSD coil. My fuse box, relays etc were all rebuilt to higher than factory standards by George as well. Maybe it does have something to do with the MSD? Allen, I don't know which MSD coil you are using or how you have it mounted. If it is a standard round old school type of coil it needs to be mounted vertically, NOT horizontally unless it is a MSD #8222 epoxy filled coil. The other coils are oil filled for cooling the windings and will expose some of the windings to air if mounted on their side resulting in overheating and intermittent failures until it just dies and needs to be buried. When it fails after driving, touch it carefully. If this is the problem they are usually (not always) hotter than the other engine bay parts around it. With an MSD, you should be able to get a 1/2 inch bright spark from the coil wire to good ground. Position the coil wire for testing, don't hang on to it unless you wish to be enlightened! If you have a good spark, head for the fuel system. MSD boxes are not water tight either, which can cause failures from moisture (replacing mine at this very time for this very reason). On the electrical side, relay contacts get corroded and tarnished over time and cause intermittent problems. Replacing them at the time of breakdown usually isn't an option (where's my damned toolbox?). I have wired in three hidden switches in the engine bay for emergencies. One normally open momentary that allows me to crank the engine from the rear of the car for checking ignition output, two single pole single throw on the right side relay box. One of these allows me to bypass the BMW fuel safety relay and pick the two actual fuel pump relays to turn the pumps on. The second switch actually bypasses both fuel pump relays which will give you fuel if the pumps themselves are good. Makes for a quick, no toolbox diagnosis of the problem area. DON'T use these switches to avoid fixing the problem, they are just for limping home on. Good luck
  6. Dean, Never did I say your's were not of good quality. When asked about them, I did convey that they were NOT heim joints at all, rather they were fixed bushings. The bushings appeared to be of quite good quality, but that does NOT make them the same as an actual heim joint. That is why I asked to return them to you. As an aside, I was also a bit concerned that the arms themselves were made from a solid rod rather than tubing. This incrases the components weight, and a solid rod bends easier than a tubular one. Though they would work, they were NOT what I was seeking. Sorry if this has led to a misunderstanding, but when someone asks me my opinion on something I will be honest in my answer. My answer was, and is, that they are not heims. Dennis
  7. I have to migrate towards supporting Allen's argument here. I seem to have gotten myself into somewhat of a similiar argument to this on a Ferrari site. Fuel injection and carburetion can never be compared directly unless the rest of the engines parameters are the same. The Countach FI uses milder cams and some claim lower compression ratios were also used. I have not researched the compression issue at this time, nor seen any documentation supporting that. However, both factors would contribute to lower HP and torque output. FI (420 HP) versuses carbed (455 or 465 HP) stated horspower ratings are only 35 - 45 HP in difference. How much of that difference is due to the camshaft's grind and the compression ratio difference? We all know the Bosch Injection is an old constant flow injection system with limited feedback for mixture control compensation. It has some performance potential if a good technician is tweaking it's hardware and basic adjustments. Published material addressing this is available. Install modern injection hardware along wirh a modern electronic ECM with real time feedback, a tuned exhaust system, and a cd ignition and real horsepower gains for the CT is simply a tune away. Drivability is up, horsepower is up, and adrenaline should have something else up. How many new cars, econo boxes and/or ultimate performance vehicles and all those in between, are offered to us today with those sexy carbs? Since we can't get a new car with carbs, why do the new offerings now have such high HP ratings??
  8. My original payment was by Paypal. Sent it when all this still in the talking and planning stages. Then Kurt refunded my payment because it was taking so long to get the parts produced and shipped to him. Then he asked for a payment once again by PayPal when the parts were available. Up to this point in time, everything was above board. I do not recollect any "gifting" on PayPal with this transaction for the final payment transfer. If Kurt was on LPower on the 23, did he post or log into any threads or discussions??
  9. Has anyone heard anything from Kurt?? Earlycat, has Kurt got back to you since you sent your heim joints back to him?? Damned, how I hate to be taken advantage of. One tries to trust another, and guess what happens. You are screwed over and then can never make contact with the screwee again. Kurt, I hope you can justify in your own mind the damage which you have caused all the people whom have placed their trust in you. It is just so sad that one whom professes to be a fellow enthusist finds solace whithin himself to reap profits from others for a product that he markets that is deficient in design and durability. Once you knew there was a problem with the product you were selling, why did you not alert your customers? Kurt, it is once again time for you to communicate with us poor suckers that believed in you many moons ago!! KURT ..... What the hell is this all coming down to??? Are you going to make the product right with a proper exchange of parts, or are you just going to keep the money paid by us all for defective parts that we can not use and then just disappear off into the sunset? This ordeal is going on two years now, when is it going to end??
  10. Missed your post. Yes, he sent out new heims when one ordered his "kit". These new ones are the ones that are not holding up. His solution is to send back the "new" unused heims and re-press them in a factory supplied jig, and then send them back to you once again. Hope that makes a little more sense to you.
  11. Kurt last posted here on April 19th, has anyone heard from him since that time?? His words .... "This will probably take upto 4 weeks, but if after 4 weeks give or take i don't have an answer yet, i will report this to you guys" Anybody see the report, or did I just miss it? How long is "too long" to keep screwing with this issue?? How does everybody else feel about this situation? Any suggestions on how to proceed from here?
  12. Allan, Could we kind of ignore Kurt's (Limey) lack of sponsorship until the members here whom have already invested their dollars with him get their money back, or have a slim chance in the realm of hell to do so?? It is to the benefit of many members here to allow Kurt to have a venue as to how he is going to rectify his promises to us all. Then again, is he actually going to fulfill his promises if this is done? I just pray he will be as honest as he say's he is!!! Perhaps next year he will be a sponser. By rhe way, I do have a bridge for sale over in London!!!
  13. This is just a "Where the hell is Kurt" posting. Anybody heard from him, or anything about his magical heim joint fix? Anybody else getting as upset as I am about the absolute lack of resolution to the product's deficiencies (spelling?)? Who else just wants their money back for the defective heim joints Kurt supplied? This whole ordeal seems to be getting to be a bit ridiculous!! I would now like to ask a question. Kurt told me he sold somewhere around 50 sets of these reproduced heim joints to George Evans (I still have a copy of that email). Is Mr. Evans comfortable with using these joints on his customers vehicles? I am assuming that this is the same person he is testing his re-pressed (not new joints, but re-worked joints) heim joints with. How many years must I have my car out of commission because I was a fool and bought into Kurt's magical heim joint emporium? Why do we not have any feedback from his last statement that he is not going anywhere. Seems to me he did go somewhere, a place where we cannot find him or converse with him. Two weeks of testing? How about four weeks of no contact or any kind of resolution? Come to me Kurt, be honest and let us all know why we have no resolution in this matter!!
  14. I use the Jag distributor cap on my 87 FI Countach. Somewhere in my records I have the part number for a NAPA jaguar cap, but the rotor has no cross. It seems the rotor is quite unique and built out of unobtanium. I'll see if I can find my purchase orders for the cap.
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