debriga

It makes no difference as to the installed position of the individual carbs. After all, you are rebuilding them and they will all have to be re-adjusted after final installation. Any port matching would only be done on the intake manifold (unless a really high end shop was tweaking out the very last horsepower) so rebuilt carb location on the manifold is not something to worry about. A rebuilt DCNF for $50? If it was me, I would be outrunning every critter on earth while heading for the hills!!! Seriously, how does one disassemble, clean, inspect, and then rebuild one of these creatures for $50? Doing it right can entail 3 hours per carb, parts cost, cleaning chemicals cost and disposal fees. If this fellow is for real, please give me his number, for I will need to meet with him to arrange for the festivities surrounding his upcoming sainthood!! And yes, I will bow before him!!! Now, if you use a little common sense, a readily available Weber referance, some good carb cleaner, quality parts, and a lot of time on the first one or two carbs, you can do the mechanical rebuild yourself with outstanding results. Tuning can be done with a multi-port manometer, a bunch of vacumm guages, uni-sums, or a finely calibrated tachometer and a LOT of time. Finely tuned carbs will normally produce more maximum horsepower than injection, but only in a narrow ideally tuned rpm range. Injection gives a higher horsepower leading into and exiting the carbs ideal RPM range. Results = better fuel milage and overall performance with injection. Higher top end power results if the carbs if they were tuned for this scenario. So what is the difference between them? Injection is across the board power and torque, carbs become a killer force when RPM's are in a very limited range. Each reighns within the domain of it's capabilities. Find a shop that specializes in carbs or take this winter to sit down and do it yourself. You ARE capable of doing it! The informational resources are available. The cleaning agents are available. The satisfaction of doing it yourself is not available to anyone other than you!! What do you gain from this? Knowing that someone has not screwed you or mis-lead you. Knowing that the job was done right without worrying about skimping here and there to keep shop overhead from forcing you to hope for the best rather than making sure it is all right. Good luck, ring me if you need some help.

Dissimilar metal corrosion? It happens under the right conditions, but it would seem to me that it would be quite unlikely in this application. As testimony to that, I have an old Hillborn aluminum mechanical injection system on a big block Chev, mounted to cast iron heads and sporting the tall steel stacks. Put it together in the late eighties (after being told it was impossible to make streetable), and I can't detect any corrosion whatsoever at this point in time. Since the whole works are connected to your batteries negative pole, all the metals are at the same electrical potential, thus there is no difference of potential between the different metals to cause material migration from one to the other. The only thing left to cause any type of corrosion would be from the moisture, and the elements suspended whithin it, in the air itself. So ......, use a clear conformal coating (used in the electronics industry to seal circuit boards) on the stacks and carb bodies to seal them. Added bonus, it gives a bit of a gloss to parts, much the same as a paint clear coat. All that aside, why go through all this? Webers have been around since I was a kid (remember Moon Equipment?), and that's been a long time ago!! Parts are so readily avaliable for them that I can't understand anyone trying to make parts for them. If the hight of the stack will fit within the confines of the engine compartment, align with the bore of the carb, and is the same hight as the others, then it is usable. NO carb metering circuits are dependent upon the air horn/stack hight. Before some start calling foul, individual runner lenths can be tuned somewhat by stack hight. The old Crower caliope injection as an example. Torque can be slightly shifted up or down by this length, however I defy you to tell the difference without a 1/4 mile time slip or dyno results. what does that mean for your general street application? If it fits, use it. Weber is everywhere in carbueration circles. Any good speed shop, any Hi-Perfomance parts house, or just an old head such as me in your local racing scene should be able to steer you to the parts you need.

Ken QV and lcs, Thanks for the open/close temperatures. Yes, the car never comes up to temperature unless running it hard in the lower gears. Warm-up takes forever, and never fully comes up to temperature. That's why I know it is the stat stuck open. Back to the original question, does anyone know of a cross to another vehicle for the thermostat, or is it truly unique to Lamborghini? Thanks again Dennis

Thanks for all the info, everyone, but I am still wondering if it is the thermostat itself. On the highway the temp guage drops to about 50 C while cruising. However, in town with all the gear changing and accelerating, the temp guage would rise to about 80 C and I would get some heat at that time. The blower works fine on all three speeds. In fact, I had to shut it off while cruising as it was blowing cold air across me and making me even colder. I'll look into all the suggestions, but just in case, is there any cross reference for a thermostat? I'll get to the speedometer after I get the heat fixed, as I can't focus on it anyway while my teeth are chattering so hard!! Thanks everybody Dennis

Took the countach out on her maiden voyage (at least it was for me) over the Thanlsgiving holiday. The car blew me away with the highway milage, one two hundred mile stretch at 18 mpg, the rest of the trip averaged 15 mpg. That's better than my 77 Jeep with a 360 econo motor with 3.73 gears. No complaints with milage for a car that performs so well! Nearing my final destination I saw a state patrol vehicle that had a car pulled over. So I slowed to well under the speed limit, downshifted, and when I was close to them stuck my foot in the throttle. Got his attention big time, saw him jotting down my plate number. Later in the week he pulled into my parents home, rang the doorbell and told me to quit screwing with him, and welcomed me back home. He was two years behind me in school and his father was the one who gave me my very first ticket (neg driving) when I was 16. Some cops are still cool! Arrived in Colville, Washington on a beautiful clear day with the temps hovering around 20 to 35 degrees. The qv injected engine absolutely loves cold ambient temperatures. Felt like another 50 hp had been added. Enjoyed a wonderful turkey day and added some poundage to the return trip baggage. Started back home and then things went south in a hurry. The speedometer just up and died. No biggy, no problem, just run by the tach. Then it happened, 20 miles out of town, just entering Chewelah, Wa., the thermostat stuck open on a 15 degree day. 400 miles of driving with no heat and frozen feet has convinced me that this is something that I really do need to fix. A simple job if I can just find a replacement thermostat. Does anyone have a cross reference to another application, as Lamborghini just doesn't show up in the auto parts stores references. If there is no cross, can anyone tell me what the original stat is rated at (180-190 etc.)?? Perhaps then I can mill the original housing or make an adapter to use a thermostat that is readily available. Thanks all, for whatever help or knowledge you are willing to share!! Dennis aka debriga

Ap163. Go to porterfields site for their phone number. I had them cut the pads down a bit in thickness, then found out my calipers were not retracting all the way. If they ask about it, just tell them I made a mistake about the required thickness as I haven't called them back to let them know.

Just got home yesterday after putting 930 miles on the new porterfield pads. The braking is better than it has ever been before and I had virtually no dust on the wheels. The only way I could tell if there was any at all, was to wipe my finger across the wheel. Still can't tell how much was a tiny bit of dirt rather than brake dust. Nothing but peaise for them!!!

Just got through replacing the front pads on my 87 QV with porterfield r4s pads. My old pads left plenty of dust in just a hundred miles or so of use in city/highway driving (about half and half). I only have about 200 miles or so on the porterfields and the dust is non-existent at this point in time. They did not feel good at first, took more pedal pressure and a longer distance to stop. However, it just seems they needed a bit to bed in as they seem to be as good as the originals now and seem to still be getting better through usage. So far, I have seen no fade whatsoever from them. It's going to take some more mileage before the verdict is in, but at this point in time, they are at least as good as the originals. If the weather permits, I'll have a another 900 miles on them over Thanksgiving, so should be able to give a better opinion about them them!!

Mike, Thanks for the info. Turns out you were right about the pistons not being fully retracted. What led me down the wrong path is that all four pistons in both front calipers retracted to the same depth with the clamp I was using. Just assumed that was as far as they go. First and last time I use a squeeze handle clamp!!! The pads were correct as they came out of the box. Thanks again for setting me straight! Dennis

Terryjoint, "What would youwant to anyway????" Simple!! To get the front end off the ground in order to service the wheel bearings, brakes, suspension, and whatever else might crop up.

Went with the advice of a few posters here and ordered up a set of porterfield ap163 r4s brake pads for my 87 QV. Wow, they fit perfectly down into the caliper, everything looked just so right. BUT, the pad thickness was too large to allow it to go back over the rotor!! It seems these pads are about .745 inches thick (including backing plate), two of them eat up 1.490 inches of space. The stock calipers have about 2.550/2.600 of space between opposing pistons. The rotor (measured after a light turning) is 1.225 inches thick. So, if the calipers have 2.550 inches of available space and one subtracts the pad thickness of .745 X 2 = 1.490, the result is 1.06 inches of space to fit over a 1.225 inch rotor. Thats a net loss of .165 inch. Now math was never my strongest subject, but yet I did OK with it and it did teach me that something 1.225 inches thick won't fit into a space of 1.060 inches. I am now missing 0.165 inches of space between the pads to just equal the thickness of the rotor without factoring in any clearance between them. 0.165 divided by two leaves me with .0825 inches minimum that must be removed from the friction material of each pad to leave a margin between pads to fit the rotor into. In real life I will need to probably add in another .050 or better to just be able to assemble it all. From what previous posters have had to say about the Porterfield pads, I have yet to see this issue addressed. Have I overlooked something obvious? Any help would be greatly appreciated here, and in the meantime I will contact Porterfield to see if they have any ideas (probably wishful thinking, since he was racking his brain cells to acertain if the ap163 pads were right for the countach. I know some of you have used these pads, did you run into this type of a problem? How did you get around it? Or did they just drop in and all was well for you? I do have a milling machine that I can use to cut the pads down in thickness, but will my cutting bits hold up to the kevlar/carbon material long enough to thin them somewhat? Tends to seem I will probaly spend more on cutters than asking porterfield for a custom thickness pad. Guess we will see when I talk to them tomorrow. In the meantime, if any of you have a suggestion, or a cure all, I would love to hear from you!! Thanks to all!!!! Dennis [email protected]

If there is no central point to lift the front end with a single jack, is it permissable to use two jacks located behind the front wheels? The point where one would place the front arms of a lift, and then bringing up both jacks a little at a time? Thanks everybody!!

I've searched through the old posts and have found most of what I am looking for. The final piece of info I need, is to find out if there is a point where a floor jack may be placed to lift the entire front end without causing any damage. The car is an 87 QV, if that fact should make any difference. Thanks guys!!

Hi Jeff, Thanks for the info!!! I would be more than game for the concours if it was just at another date. I will probably be a little under the weather at that time due to some scheduled maintenance treatments for some pesky little cancer bugs. It doesn't have to be a concours to get me out, I can fall for most any excuse to aim the CT somewhere. Thanks again!!! De'Briga Dennis

Seems that the big thing these days are kevlar oriented. Are these Kevlar clutch discs and brake pads up to the hype about them? Are they readily available to the Countach owner? Does anyone have any experience with them? Are they actually better than organic materials? I would just like to hear from an average end user of this type of product. Do you recommend it, can you tell a didfference over stock materials? If you do feel a difference, is it worth the price of the upgrade over the enhanced performance? Thanks De"Briga

Hi Darren, I know Oliver, and have camped at Penticton many times. My little sister used to bring back the local tykes to our camp for a rousing fun time for all. She was just like a little international good will ambasador. Unfortunately, MS took her from us all. Jeez, I wish I had known you were in Everett!! I worked there for about 5 years and could have shown you a lot of neat places to enjoy. Not to mention all the really great ferry rides out into the San Juan Islands and up to Point Roberts on the southern most point of Canada! There is not a more beautiful ride than this ferry trip between our two great countries. Your ride up I-90 through Spokane and Cour d'alene came so close to my old stomping grounds as a youth. I grew up in Colville, Wa which is about 68 miles north of Spokane. Just wish I knew you were coming through, would have been nice to meet a fellow enthusiast. I'm nearing retirement and thinking about moving back into the Colville/Spokane/Cour d'alane area. Meet in Calgary? That's like asking if I like sweets! I have always loved that area and still seek an exscuse to go back there! Especially if there is a stray Lambo or two to gawk at. I know that isn't as intense as being able to sit in an Diablo SVR (can you feel my jealousy going wild?) and I will perhaps feel a need to hate you into eternity, but out of the goodness of my heart I will still embrace you and your loved one. (Still trying to downplay my SVR jealousy and maintain a cool and collected demeanor). OK, I just can't do it anymore!!! Why did you get to sit in it and not me??????? Thanks for the phone number and contact for LS Technologies. I'll try and get ahold of them this week. Sounds like you got some really good customer service. This is the type of outfit I like to do business with. Thanks for giving me a lead with Stephen Fenners name. I'll give Glen Kohut a jingle as soon as I get a few good pictures to pass along. My car is listed in the registry, but I don't know if it is the first, second, third, or whatever owner. Can't seem to find a history on it! Thanks for all your help Darren Wishing you all the best in life, De"Briga Dennis

Chad, I have heard your name many times in various Countach posts and have realized you have a wealth of parts and knowledge to share. Concerning the 1/2 shafts, they are quite pristine regarding wear and contamination. It is only the boots that have rotted beyond repair. I will still remove them, clean and lubricate them, and put them back in. I just need the cv boots (bellows) to accomplish this. Can you supply me with them and an estimate of the price? Concerning the QV engine specs, somewhere along the product line there has to be a detailed blueprint/clearance set of specs in order to rebuild one of these engines. There is no way a factory can produce an engine for sale in one of it's vehicles that has sold for over eight years without providing a detailed rebuilding guide for it's dealers or others. One blows an engine due to winding it too hard and too high. Their is no way to repair it other than sending it back to Italy. Ummmmm, I really don't believe this is the only way to repair it. But to do repairs, one needs the design clearances in order to reconditon the various components. It is hard for me to believe that after 20 plus years, the clearances are still locked in an underground vault in Rome next to all the old Roman secret burial archives. The factory had training materials for it's dealers and maintenance personel. It supplied them with all the pertinent information they might need to maintain and repair these vehicles. Where is all this information that most now assume never was? No manufacturer could ever supply a product for as long as the lifespan of the Countach was without ever producing detailed mechanical information. The dealers have all received it, where has it gone from there? If you can supply me with the 1/2 shaft boots (bellows) I would be most appreciative. Perhaps a price might also be beneficial. Also, let me know what info you have available for the QV engine. Thank you for your time De"Briga

Can someone inform me as to how to attach a photo to a message on this site? I keep trying, yet it all seems to vanish into limbo. How does one attach a photo or document and have it viewable to another? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Hello HLA12097, Thanks for your input!! I have HLA12071, so it would seem our cars are very similiar. As far as being from "across the pond", I would assume you thought that from my usage of the term "bellows" in my post. Used that on purpose as most everyone would understand what it meant, both here and abroad. I live in the "original" Vancouver, which is in Washington State, across the Columbia River from Portland, Oregon (Fort Vancouver to be exact). I grew up less than 60 miles from our common border and probably spent as much time whithin the great nation of Canada as I did whithin my own country's borders! Spent winters skiing at Rossland, outside of Trail, BC. Spent many a summer roaming the National Parks at Banf, Jasper, etc. marveling at the raw beauty of your country. Fished and enjoyed many a time at Penticten, Kamloops, and Lake Christina. I think I should be recognized as least 1/2 Canadian, since half my youth was spent whithin your hospitality, 1/2 half of what I am has been influenced by the wonderful people I met across our border. People I learned to love and respect with all my heart as a result of their honesty and genuine caring. I always tried to give as much back as I received, but that is a tall order to achieve considering the warmness of most Canadians hearts. I am officially a USA citizen, yet I feel as much Canadian as anyone whithin your country as most of us border residents learned to love one another, not just a country. I would like to ask you if L.S. Technologies can rebuild the originals? Even if they can't, I would be interested in their functional products for a replacement unit until I can restore the originals. Would you have a phone number for them. If I can my car together reliably for a road trip, would you be game for a drive to meet halfway and enjoy a good meal in the prescence of another Lambo junkie? I would assume that Lethbridge or Medicine Hat would be about half way for both of us. Perhaps others might also wish to join up. Beautiful country, beautiful people, beautiful automobiles, what more could one ask for? I'll try and include a few pics, but I have only had the car less than a month. Been taking care of problems rather than taking pics. Till Later, HLA12071 Black on Black De'Briga

Hi, This is my first post here, along with my first Countach. It's an "87" black QV. I've been doing some minor maintenance on items that needed some attention, and now need some advice on where to get a few needed parts. The protective bellows on both driveshafts are rotted out and need to be replaced. The shafts do not seem to have any play in the joints, so I am looking for all 4 bellows. Are replacements available that can be installed without removing the half-shafts? Does anybody know of any US bellow replacement kits that might fit this? Also, does anybody have a source for recharging the gas struts for the hood/trunk/engine cover? I've tried crossing them with available aftermarket pieces, but they are a little different length than original. Also need to know the pressure required to hold the trunk (with wing) open. Finally, is there any type of manual available concerning the engine/drivetrain with detailed specs for cam/timing adjusts, rebuilding clearances and specs, etc.? Thanks for your help, I have already learned a lot reading the old posts. Be well, De'Briga