Stimpy
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Posts posted by Stimpy
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One of of the Lambo parts suppliers told me that the letter at the end of the part number changes when Lambo changes parts suppliers, even though it’s the same part. But this doesn’t seem to be the case here.
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On 12/7/2021 at 2:45 PM, Svt said:
Pleas se post or send me a photo of your headlight and showing the issue .
after this I m able to tell you something more
thank you
Here's a link on my DIY to do this job. In the thread, you can see the condition of my headlights.
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What's up with the lack of transparency? What is the solution you are using? What is the cost?
Never good when those details aren't mentioned upfront.
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It does look hard with the engine in. Probably just checking clearances isn't so bad.
If I were to take on this job, I would remove the exhaust system to get more room and be able to stand in the engine bay for some of the work.
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On 12/1/2021 at 10:54 AM, del mar2 said:
does the description say it was a coupe and the roof was cut off ?
Hey guys I will be listing my 2002 Gated Manual Murcielago for sale
It holds a rebuilt title from 2002 First owner bought it in 2002 and wrecked after one month of owning it. Second owner bought it in 2011 and I have owned it for a year.
The Vehicle has 8700 miles
Car runs great, I have really enjoyed it.
I have about 130k in invoices spent at Lamborghini Miami
Interior has been upgraded to newer lp640 interior. Quick silver exhaust, clutch was replaced 2k miles ago. 19/20” wheels.
The car was converted to a roadster 10 years ago, but it can easily be converted back to a coupe since not much was removed. I’ll post a pic of the roof. It comes with a custom made soft top as well.
If anyone is interested let me know I will be listing it soon. I will be providing a lot more info once I’m ready to list, but if anyone has any questions please text me 760-nine94-558four
I’m thinking of listing for $150k
I will be listing it on eBay once I take some good pictures
Here are some pictures that I have in my phone.
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7 hours ago, caminperth said:
I managed to get mine apart without removing the plastic and am looking for a suitable product to reseal the headlight.
Sikaflex 221 looks possibly ok, any thoughts that the group can share for other sealants to look at?
Why not black silicone? Remember, the sealant does not need to make an airtight seal because the units are not sealed by any means. There's 4 big vents to atmosphere on the bottom of the housing. And due of the shape of the housing, water ingress is not an issue, so you're not trying to get a super water tight seal either. But what you want is something that's easy to cut through so you can more easily clean the headlights when they fog up again. Silicone is easy to cut through.
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On 8/9/2021 at 11:05 AM, Svt said:
Hi! The video dosent work , is possible have good link? Tnx
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Hi Bryan,
Good question. I don’t know what are the rules of the forum, but you’re probably right that you have to have a certain number of forum replies before you can post in the classifieds.
Phil
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10+ years is at the limit of the current PPF warranties, and the current film is better quality than 10 years ago.
If it was me, while it's still in good shape, I would have it very carefully removed using the right technique (steam and stretching it along the film, not pulling it up) before you end up having to use one of those huge eraser wheels to rub it off the paint. Wait too long to remove it, and it's a disaster. Something like this:
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It’s a CV joint similar to any other car. You can find a local specialist to refurb your axles. If you take it to Lambo, they’ll either send it out to the same type of shop and mark it up crazy amounts or charge you crazy money to replace the entire axle needlessly with a new OEM part.
We are all getting to the age where these CV boots will start failing. They do on all cars after a certain amount of time. You might want to check what the Diablo folks are doing since they are ahead of us on aging out their rubber parts.
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56 minutes ago, sprite said:
Where is the thread on this? My 08 coupe currently has it's engine out. Is this hose something that should be replaced?
Do all the hoses with the engine out. It's a tiny price to pay to prevent an overheated V12 and being stuck embarrassingly on the side of the road with coolant everywhere.
Shocking that mechanics wouldn't recommend replacing the rubber bits on a 13 year old car while the engine is already out. Lots of other things little to do when the engine out.
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It's definitely a job you can do with the engine in, and most are done that way because, unfortunately, not many Murci owners change the hoses proactively because they think low miles means the hoses will last longer (not really true), so they are often repairing just the hose as opposed to doing the work when the engine is out for other tasks.
All the hoses are getting old on all the Murci's at this point, so I changed every coolant hose in the engine bay recently. They are all accessible with the engine in the car. To do all the hoses, I did remove the exhaust, the right airbox, the engine decorative panels, and the thermostat housing.
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If it's the same compressor that is in the pre-LP, then I bought a brand new one from France and had it shipped to the US from this website:
https://www.ecoclim.net/en/compressor/sanden/fix-r134a/sd7h15/p200D71/detail.php
These compressors are very common in Europe, but not in the US, which is why I went overseas. The only difference is the connector on the end that you can splice from the old compressor very easily.
They also have the dryer, and you want to get it from them because it's 10x the cost here.
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Don't forget to mention how important it is to put the serpentine belt on the AC pulley correctly. The pulley has more grooves than the belt, and if you put it on wrong, it will shred the belt and your engine will boil the coolant once it stops flowing, you'll lose power steering, and alternator power, and of course, AC. Check the manual for the correct groves to use. A number of YouTubers are soiling the Murci name because their mechanics put the belt on wrong and bad things happened after it broke (one lost an engine), and they aren't owning up to their mistake and instead making the engine appear unreliable.
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Check out this thread for more info on the Murci alarm system:
https://www.another board.com/threads/no-start-and-strange-alarm-system-behavior.222209/
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I had weird problems with my alarm and eventually the car wouldn’t start. $1300 for a new Med alarm brain.
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Rebuild or replace starter
Seals for trans and engine
Replace 2 bearings for rear drive shaft and 1 bearing for front driveshaft
Valve adjustment
All new coolant hoses and couplings
All vacuum hoses
Fuel filters
New hoses for the charcoal canister
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5 hours ago, martinngan said:
thanks for the reply. I've actually had the car since new and its the first time I've encountered this problem with it. I'm just a bit reluctant to have the engine out for 2 egear sensor and want to see if anyone had any similar experience or if any one tried replacing these 2 sensors without removing the whole drive train.
The answer to your question is yes:
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ComputerExpress is long gone. He bought a trashed e-gear Murci and dumped an insane amount of money into it (probably could have bought a SV in good condition with the money he spent on that car!), and I am not sure he ever got it running right before he dumped it.
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I like the idea of making access holes. It's really nice on a Ferrari 360 that the factory put a big access hold in the firewall behind the seats to change the timing belts. I wish all mid-engine cars with timing belts had that kind of access.
Needing the take out the whole engine just to get to something simple that the access holes would make possible with the engine in is a real net win. You can break a lot of things removing and reinstalling an engine, so the less you do it the better. Ask DDE.
But I can't believe that the Car Wizard didn't do some double checking of the plumbing behind the area he was cutting and cut into the hoses. Very rookie mistake.
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9 minutes ago, sprite said:
I have the PIN card so only need to swap the control unit if that's what's failing.
That's great. But you will most likely have to swap out your keys as well. Apparently, you can't program your existing keys to another Med unit, and apparently, the keys are linked to the ignition cylinder, so you have to change that out too. I say apparently, because that's what some Lambo parts people told me they understand how it works, but were waiting for full confirmation from Lambo.
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On 9/10/2020 at 11:17 PM, sprite said:
I'm leaning towards the control unit being bad. Sometimes when arming the car it just flashes and doesn't beep, other times it beeps like it's supposed to. When the alarm triggers it's the siren only, looking in the manual it seems like lights should be flashing as well. Guess I will schedule an appointment to get it replaced before it craps out completely and leaves me stranded.
It sounds very possible your Med is going flaky. I am dealing with the results of Med issues now. And yes, it will strand you hard when it fails. My Med was warning me by losing range for the remote over the past few years, but I didn't know that was a warning sign until the car wouldn't start one day. The Med runs 24x7 unless you unplug the battery, so it's not surprising that it goes bad after so many years.
Do you have the 6 digit PIN code for your Med unit? If not, to stay original, add a couple thousand more in parts and probably $500-1000 in labor for changing out your fuel cutoff valves - removing them involves drilling. The Med unit is around $1200 for the part, and very easy to replace. But you will probably have to replace your ignition lock and your keys too. Check my thread on the other forum for details.
Someone I know had their Med unit replace at the local dealer recently, and his final bill was $7500, which included the fuel valves because he didn't have the PIN for his Med. An aftermarket alarm with the same capabilities of the Med is around $50, so I am leaning toward replacing the system with aftermarket, which will be a big favor to the next owner. At those prices, I would buy several of the same aftermarket unit for hot spares.
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12 minutes ago, sprite said:
No if I lock the car the siren goes off after 5-10 seconds. Unlocking the car stops it.
I reread your original post, and clearly I misunderstood.
To me, seems like the alarm is falsely getting a signal that one of the doors or hoods are open.
Rear prop shaft bearing
in Archived Content
Posted
If you pull out the exhaust, you can stand in the engine bay and have very good access to the rear diff.