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  1. You don't think 2wd drive makes much of a difference in the TCS light coming on, or you don't think 2wd makes much of a difference over 4wd?
  2. He already did the expansion tank cap, and we just discussed the thermostat. Based on the info provided, either the engine is generating more heat than normal or the cooling system has less capacity than normal. If the cooling system wasn't keeping pressure, he would be losing coolant and would really overheat as the coolant would boil without the pressure to raise the boiling point, so I don't see a coolant leak as the problem either. It sounds like the fans are working because the coolant temps would drop at speed with the extra airflow if the fans weren't working properly. But it sounds like it's always running a little hot unless the heater is turned on. Plus a fan issue on either side of the car in Atlanta summer heat would cause major overheating. I will say it's possible to have corrosion in the connector for the fan that robs some of the power going to the fans. I know this, because I had that problem on my right radiator fan and had to replace the corroded connector. My left fan just quit working one day, so I have experienced that problem too. At freeway speeds, the coolant temps were good despite those fan problems. Sprite, can you confirm that the coolant temps are still high even while driving at freeway speeds with the batwings open?
  3. Well, if you use the heater core to reduce the temp of coolant flowing through the engine, the thermostat would be exposed to that lower temp coolant and then restrict more of the coolant from circulating through the main radiators to bring the temp back up to whatever temperature the thermostat is set at. The heater core wouldn't be able to keep the engine at 90degC without the help of the main radiators in Atlanta summers. So if I had to wager money, I don't see replacing the thermostat as solving your problem based on the symptoms you described.
  4. I can't really see the sediment in those pics. Can you describe that sediment a little more? Do you think someone could have added a stop leak product? If so, depending on what they added, and how much, they could have semi-clogged one or both of the radiators. Don't put it past someone selling a used car to drop some of that in instead of fixing a small leak. The fact that turning on the heater brings down the temp means that adding more cooling capacity solves the issue, so I am betting the new thermostat won't solve your problem. If the thermostat was opening at the wrong temp, it would keep the engine at that wrong temp despite using the heater for extra cooling. You might also check that nothing got sucked into the air intakes that could be reducing your airflow across the radiators, like a plastic shopping bag. Probably not the problem, but worth an easy check. It's good that you don't have a head gasket issue. An engine can also create more heat if it's running lean, the ignition timing is off, or if the valve timing or valve clearances are off. How many miles on your engine?
  5. Is that the brightest gold they have? That dip looks almost like a bronze, and I think black looks better with a brighter gold.
  6. Not exactly sure, but they are referring to the paneling around that area. It may be the wheel arch liners in the rear wheels closest to the back of the car, or there are also some panels along the side of the exhaust system. I didn't bother with the drain plugs, I just pulled the hoses from the bottom of the radiators and then stuck the hose from my 7qt suction brake bleeder into the radiators to suck out any coolant left at the bottom. I was changing all the coolant hoses anyway, so that was easiest. I also got a lot more coolant out of the engine by putting the suction tube down the entry of the water pump. The best way to refill the Murci (and just about any car) is a vacuum filler. You can get them on Amazon. It's not that necessary because the coolant system has self bleeding plumbing (the small hoses), but it goes a lot easier. When doing it without a vacuum filler, I had to wait for the system to burp itself before I could get all the coolant into it. I just let it sit for a while and I was then able to fill it up.
  7. I think it’s more a problem with a lack of info sharing and a lack of knowledgeable mechanics. The Murci is actually incredibly simple compared to current cars. I am sure a knowledgeable mechanic with the full Lambo software could very quickly solve your issue, so I wouldn’t jump to blaming the car.
  8. If they put it in facing forward, the car wouldn't be reversed uphill, it would be backed out downhill. Reversing uphill is what's bad for the egear clutch. Even if it doesn't wear it out, it can glaze the clutch since there's a lot more slippage going in reverse in the egear.
  9. So pristine! Why did he back it into the trailer? That’s really hard on the egear.
  10. Thanks for your reply Jeff! Here are the codes with and without the driver airbag physically plugged in... Philip
  11. Here’s where we are stuck. Anyone know how to get past this error?
  12. That software works. Answered my own question on the cable above, it works with LDAS to talk to ECU’s. Another question for JeffLambo: What’s the procedure to clear the airbag code with the Airbag software? We are talking to the airbag module, but can’t find the instructions on how you use the software to clear the light. That software seems pretty cryptic.
  13. Thanks, Jeff! Is this the cable for LDAS that connects to the connector in the fuse panel area in the passenger footwell? Or does it connect somewhere else?
  14. That's all part of the Italian charm.
  15. Just watched an episode of Wheeler Dealers where Ant did this job on an old Golf GTI. That car had the bolt like your top pic, and after the job he made the comment that the seals are a lot easier to change on GTI than on a lot of other cars. It's very possible the 2007 LP-640 falls into that category of being a lot harder. I would think JeffLambo is your best bet for experience with your model year diff.
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