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Posts posted by Houston
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13 hours ago, chucklehead said:
Trim fastener door
autozone GM Body Trim Panel Retainers #467380
original fastener on left, replacement right
different shape but works nice
chucklehead, thanks for sharing. I encountered this a few months ago and went with the high $$ factory retainers. Good to know for future work.
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That looks like a good time (tongue in cheek). See what you 3-pedal folks are missing out on!
Thanks for sharing!
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So with it having a certificate of destruction rather than salvage does that mean it's a far shot from ever being allowed on the road again?
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achilles99, you can send the entire motor/gear assembly to Gruven on an exchange basis or just specify for them to rebuild your units and eat the core charge (this might be preferable as the exchange unit you receive may look like it came out of a swamp - if you're detail oriented).
The initial drawback that arose for me is that they replace the motor with a high-torque unit which creates more amperage draw and pops the fuse when both mirrors are activated. Just specify to not use that motor. Otherwise you will have to move up to a higher amp fuse as I did. I can't say that this motor is really needed on our cars as the swing is not as great as on a GM vehicle.
By the way, our units are the same. It's a drop-in replacement but you will still have a plastic gear.
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Looks spectacular! Thanks for sharing. I'm sure it was a bit of a process with the color change.
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Add the rocker sills to this 'Italian' perspective. The drivers side is referred to as being on the right side of the body and passenger is on the left in the repair manual....
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I was at Lamborghini Houston the week before last where they ran my VIN and stated all was up to date. Not sure if this campaign doesn't apply to LP640's but we'll see if they follow up with any thing else. Thanks for sharing.
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As a follow up to my post above:
Not being overly assured that the small wire gauge on these cars is the same on GM vehicles that use this motor with a 10amp fuse - I tried a 7.5amp. So far so good and I'm not as concerned about running a larger fuse in a circuit that may not be up to the task.
If a person does not want to use the high-torque motor but still wants a 'drop-in' unit using the original style motor then Paul at Gruven has stated he is happy to rebuild as such.
Thanks again to gmendoza and all the others for these great posts!
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56 minutes ago, yellomurci said:
What other things are connected to that fuse?
How easy was the swap using the gruven assemblies? I need to do this to mine asap.
Mirror motor/heating element and fuel door are all that I can see are connected.
With the complete assembly it cuts out a lot of time and/or potential frustration with installing the new gear. At least that has been my viewpoint so far.
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Hi all,
I've recently undertaken this project and rather than taking the motor/gear assembly apart I purchased exchange units from Gruven. With this setup they are using high-torque motors that draw more amperage than the factory motors - upwards of 5amps each on startup. Since I decided to replace both driver and passenger side units the 5 amp fuse will blow every time with both mirrors plugged in. With just a single mirror connected either will operate fine - so I don't believe I am looking at a short somewhere, just too much of an amperage draw.
Gruven has suggested using a 10amp fuse in place of the 5amp fuse. Does anyone have concerns with this method? The alternative would be to keep the factory motors and just use the brass gear.
Thanks in advance!
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Thanks Stimpy! I just checked mine (2009) and it too is needing to be replaced. Definitely appreciate your posts!
Brotherly Help Needed
in Archived Content
Posted
Done!