Jump to content

Welcome to Lambo Power!

Thank you for stopping by LamboPower.com. We are proud to announce our relaunch and redesign in 2019.

If you haven't already registered for a free account, take just a second and create an account today.

Welcome to the bullpen. 

 

.

[[Template core/front/profile/profileHeader is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    Array
  1. Add the rocker sills to this 'Italian' perspective. The drivers side is referred to as being on the right side of the body and passenger is on the left in the repair manual....
  2. I was at Lamborghini Houston the week before last where they ran my VIN and stated all was up to date. Not sure if this campaign doesn't apply to LP640's but we'll see if they follow up with any thing else. Thanks for sharing.
  3. As a follow up to my post above: Not being overly assured that the small wire gauge on these cars is the same on GM vehicles that use this motor with a 10amp fuse - I tried a 7.5amp. So far so good and I'm not as concerned about running a larger fuse in a circuit that may not be up to the task. If a person does not want to use the high-torque motor but still wants a 'drop-in' unit using the original style motor then Paul at Gruven has stated he is happy to rebuild as such. Thanks again to gmendoza and all the others for these great posts!
  4. Mirror motor/heating element and fuel door are all that I can see are connected. With the complete assembly it cuts out a lot of time and/or potential frustration with installing the new gear. At least that has been my viewpoint so far.
  5. Hi all, I've recently undertaken this project and rather than taking the motor/gear assembly apart I purchased exchange units from Gruven. With this setup they are using high-torque motors that draw more amperage than the factory motors - upwards of 5amps each on startup. Since I decided to replace both driver and passenger side units the 5 amp fuse will blow every time with both mirrors plugged in. With just a single mirror connected either will operate fine - so I don't believe I am looking at a short somewhere, just too much of an amperage draw. Gruven has suggested using a 10amp fuse in place of the 5amp fuse. Does anyone have concerns with this method? The alternative would be to keep the factory motors and just use the brass gear. Thanks in advance!
  6. Just curious, did yours have a spring inside of it? Presumably to prevent the hose from kinking. In my case the failure point was at the edge of the spring.
  7. Thanks Stimpy! I just checked mine (2009) and it too is needing to be replaced. Definitely appreciate your posts!
×
×
  • Create New...