whiteout
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Posts posted by whiteout
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Congrats!
There is a guy on eBay making the exhaust springs for substantially less than used OEM parts sell for.
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Agree with everyone above. Valves open is a straight pipe.
If you want it louder, go with cat delete or high flow cats.
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Hahaha! Wow.
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Glad to see you got it out.
For that dust cap, we cut mine and just reconnected it. It has to be removed to get the driveshaft out. A cover for the other bearings is a great idea as they are exposed and I think that is what leads to the failure.
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Ask Glen at AMH, he likely has one.
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You might need to unbolt the engine mounts (one center bolt on each side of the motor); remove rear diff mount and jack up the motor. Put a piece of wood (2x4) between the jack and the oil pan. Then you should have quite a bit more clearance.
PB blaster and heat may get the exhaust clamp off the cat pipe. But a dremel with a cutoff wheel should also be able to make quick work of the stud.
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Looking good! I believe the reason the accessory mount had to come off of the LP was to clear the differential off of the studs on the engine (it has been years, so I could be wrong) as the initial plan was to only remove the alternator. Pre-LP could be different.
If you feel like doing more work while the diff is out, you are two exhaust clamps away from replacing the primary cats. The factory v-band clamps are really nice, but corrosion will take out the studs. It's always a good idea to spray them with pb blaster prior to loosening the nuts. Luckily the nuts and studs are replaceable. But you can also use single bolt aftermarket v-band clamps for a bit quicker access.
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VERY time consuming. If I remember correctly, all of the accessories had to come off the motor, which is not the easiest thing in the world, to access all the diff bolts.
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These bearings can be changed with the engine in the car.
The rear diff has to come off. The rear-most driveshaft dust shield has to be cut for removal of the driveshaft.
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You are the blatant liar.
Your video references the OE upper transmission mount, which has absolutely nothing to do with the Reid mount. It makes absolutely zero sense that you would come out of the gate attacking the Reid 2WD with false claims. Maybe to justify your lower quality materials. . . . as I have zero issue with your version of the 2WD as it has nothing to do with my design, isn't the first 2WD competitor I've had, nor is it the cheapest option. But your false information for financial gain really shows your poor character.
Based on your laser cut sheet metal which is powder coated, I'm going to assume it's mild steel. With the stub axles being cadmium coated, I also assume they are steel. If I'm wrong, please correct. In the alternative, the Reid transmission mount made from billet aluminum with a Ferrari engine mount for the damper and titanium axle deletes. All of the materials are sourced from the US and manufactured in the US. Quality ain't cheap and the 100% price bump in US sourced materials in 2020 wasn't either.
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10 hours ago, Nuvolari said:
For years Murcielago owners have had limited choices for converting to 2wd. Most of the available kits supply a mount to support the transmission but this setup has a significant downside as it introduces driveline vibrations that would not otherwise be present. Check out this following video I put together that explains the problem and the new solution now available:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgiRNLQJyec&lc=UgyTyEVTbEQcGpP028B4AaABAg
The new kit is available here and is about 1/3 the cost of the other popular conversion kit:
I'm not sure why the links are not coming up but a simple copy and paste will work well
The Reid Performance 2WD conversion does not introduce driveline vibration to the cabin. It has been in production for 6 years with over 50 Murcielagos running it and zero complaints of vibration. You are making blatant lies about the Reid system.
Additionally, the Reid conversion is made of higher quality components with a more intricate design and the price reflects that.
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Lamboweb has a write up for the diablo (same system as early Murci) and should be able to help with your issue. Although it is odd the setting is stuck in '2' vs. error.
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19 hours ago, Svt said:
How much cost this last one in video ?
$1400
On 4/4/2021 at 7:13 PM, PoKnow said:Nick,
What do the R-GT/GT1 headers look like? Times have changed. Maybe time to try again?
I don't think it's worth the effort again (it took a significant amount of time - and the people committed to purchasing were at the mercy of others' commitment). If it would have come down to me buying 2 sets to get the order in, I would have but that wasn't how it panned out. Since there was a lot of interest I am sure there would be plenty of interest again, but there are not enough people actually committed to purchase.
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This is with stock primary cats
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This is such a great build.
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On 11/25/2020 at 5:43 AM, murcivu said:
Speaking of exhaust. Anyone heard about retro fitting the SVJ exhaust on the SV? I love the central dual exhaust theme. Reminds me of my LP640. I’m sure there’s some inside bumper plastic body panels that will need to be manipulated but I’m more curious on the exhaust lining up especially after the primary cats.
The cat pipes are different for the SVJ so I don't think the exhaust will bolt up to other models. You could always mod the SV to meet your needs, but it likely won't be a bolt on affair.
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On 12/28/2020 at 6:13 AM, alpha6164 said:
Make sure you get a dyno before and after. The design of that exhaust definitely is not conducive to making power and most likely you are losing a good bit.
I spoke to maker of the exhaust "Brilliant" and he said "my only concern is sound, i dont care if it loses power." That did not sound comforting to me.
It does sound glorious though but not at the cost of losing power. Aventador is already "slow" compared to todays exotics and sure as hell dont want to have less power.
Agreed on all points. Powerdropper?
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LOL @ $25k for headers and exhaust. You'll likely be fine with primary pipes and secondary/muffler delete. My DTP makes the highest pitch (non merged & short design). Ti is available, but does not make a big difference in sound (I've run both stainless and Ti (current) on my personal car), but the Ti does drop weight and look really pretty.
Message me if you want headers. But 99.9999999999% of owners don't want headers. I couldn't get 5 owners, worldwide out of a group of 25+ interested to buy in at $12k for genuine R-GT/GT1 headers.
Ti DTP:
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Mondi had AGX and I assume primary deletes.
AGX has a mid-length design with x-pipe and DTP is a short length with non-merged design.
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If the tires don't work, you can always go 2WD.
Find the actual size of the tire diameter and use this equation to see if it falls within the stock parameters
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Get some motor mounts & rear driveshaft bearings from Glen while the motor is out.
Clean the oil sump screen & change plugs/ignition coils while the motor is out (mu
If you're debating high flow cats or deleting the primary cats, now is the time.
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20 minutes ago, Speed Demon said:
Which exhaust is best for power while still sounding good? Powercraft? Gintani? Other?
The ones that don't purely neck down to 1 pipe. The following have a minimum of 2.5" for each bank throughout the entire exhaust:
Akrapovic; Fabspeed; Quicksilver; Tubi Inconel Capristo; Kline; Novitec (non-race)
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On 10/31/2020 at 8:20 AM, Kratos said:
Old thread.....thought I'd update it for 2020. Stardropper is now King.
Not for power. That merge pipe might make the sound pretty, but it greatly restricts flow.
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1 hour ago, Impslap said:
Why would the offset create an issue if the rolling diameter is the same as stock?
It doesn't.
DIY: Replace clutch master
in Archived Content
Posted
Little update for the LP and potentially '05+. This is not a difficult job, but it does suck because of the tight working quarters.
The layout of crap in front of the master cylinder is different than the '04 and accessible without removing the wiper motor. I also did not remove the driver's seat.
1. loosen jam nut on master cylinder to pedal attachment - 13mm wrench.
2. remove bolt holding master to pedals - two 13mm wrench.
3. remove lower hydraulic line from master - 11mm wrench.
4. break 2 mounting nuts loose - 3/8" ratchet, 13mm, extensions and u-joint.
5. pull feed hose from top of master - immediately put into large bottle to collect fluid.
6. remove 2 mounting nuts.
7. once brake/clutch fluid reservoir is done draining - remove hose from reservoir.
8. install pedal attachment & hose to new master.
9. install new master and tighten nuts.
10. connect hose to reservoir & lower hydraulic line.
11. connect to pedal.
12. fill with fluid and bleed.
Other notables: lots of blue shop towels, brake cleaner, small flashlight - a good one, extendable magnet. Move vacuum lines and electrical connections out of your way.