Kenny94945
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Posts posted by Kenny94945
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My Vote =S63
Rides, corners, brakes better than an SUV...so safer for family IMO.
But, wife previously drove a SUV Range Rover.
Does she really want a sedan?
I can agree the G500 is rough riding so your wife should drive first.
Good luck in your decision.
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Ditto...Bella
Plus...IMO keep the calipers black.
FWIW...matte paint...Harley Davidson owners say clean with Windex.
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I too have just begun looking to automobile "dash" cameras.
Best I can tell is that 4 channel covers all the areas.
2 Channel is front and year.
Then there are systems with LCD screens and systems that you either download video through WiFi or a cable.
I only searched the 'net for automotive systems and can not comment if adapting a home system to your automobile is reasonable.
Mounting systems, wiring and camera sizes vary greatly. Except for "china" made fish eye side cameras I do not see anything that is just a lens size camera especially for the side camera installation.
Features function greatly also, GPS, speed, lane departure, disk size etc....
Night recording quality also varies greatly.
Lastly, the ability to clearly read a license plate of another vehicle that is not directly in front of your vehicle seems impossible to me from the video samples I have reviewed on any brand.
In conclusion most cameras work great, even $100 cost units, to show vehicle traffic patterns. IMO there are all not so great for high quality and specific identification.
Many recommend the Black Vue as a brand, yet they are only two channel.
With all that said, I don't think the side camera will help much. I door ding culprit may not show a license plate as it moves into and out of the space, so you would be dependent on the front or rear camera reading the license plate from an angle...a weakness based on my observation noted above.
For vandalism, again one really needs that high quality for specific identification.
So...I am in on thread to see what our co-members have discovered and put in use.
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Funny replies (Pre-purchase inspection, Carfax mileage, etc.)......thanks for the laughs
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Funny replies (Pre-purchase inspection, Carfax mileage, etc.)......thanks for the laughs
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I'll join the vote:
Rock and Roll.
Ted Nugent...maybe 1980.
Before big screens, holograms and inflatable p*n*ses.
Musicians, good sound, alive on stage.
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Well ....in regards to "stupid and simple"?
Are the battery cables tight and free of moisture?
Further info to ask...Do the headlights dim when you turn the key.
Good hunting.
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Gummi Pflege.... German company, Gummi is the brand name and is a superior rubber seal lubricant.
Else, use a generic di-electric grease.
Other comments in this thread seem applicable...tightening bracketry, protecting the roof corners when stored and lubrication.
So seems we have a maintenance item. Seal replacement would be the last step IMO.
Good luck.
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"..blown the boots...completely tear.."
Food for thought comments:
Are the torn at the ends?
One single tear horizontal?
Tear vertical?
Cut or stress tears?
Multiple tears on both sides?
Thinking out loud:
Too much grease, securing clamps cutting boots, excess suspension travel, excess steering/ tie rod movement, outside source such as speed bumps or driveways, boots are touching some part of the car, incorrect boots such as too short, heat melting the boots.
In for the cause and cure.
Good hunting.
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Well, how about a Jeep?
Room for wife and two (yes two) child seats in the rear.
Off roading across your neighbors landscaping can be fun...haha.
Best wishes
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Interesting comment on the valve adjustment.
With some vehicles/ engines the valves or valve seats slam/ recess into the head.
This wear doesn't not make a noise as one expects if the valve clearance went loose.
The valve clearance went tight......hence no noise.
I would inspect the clearances, yet noting the comments of other members through the years, 20K may be a little soon for a checkup. Every 50K - oh yeah I'd check it.
Anyway, color changes can be exciting!
Good luck
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Reads to me like a blind taste test is called for by the OP and friends.
Holiday escapade! Have fun.
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Well I like the idea.....fake house right across the street from your residence.
But.....moving to a home with a larger garage may be best as an investment.
Airport hanger etc...I understand the burden of traveling to it.
Local permits...I'd imagine this requiring skill for approval.
Construction...cement box/ fake residential swing out door, then "Hollywood/ Fake" residence façade.
(Reselling this place, since it is only a garage, not zoned for business, may not be beneficial to your wallet.)
Construction...regular residential, with unfinished downstairs I also think the walls or support pillars may be an issue.
(Also depends on how big a garage you are desiring.)
Yet...I love the idea.
Good luck.
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Wow factor.
Yes, I said wow when I viewed the OP photo.
Awesome.
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This was a rare option.
Just awesome.
And wow, seems like current value is $10K.
Looking to the OP question, from an internet search:
4th hand is a stop watch/ chronograph....upper button by the # 1 starts it.
Winding....lower knurled button by the # 7 is the winder.
I do not see how to remove from display box or install/ remove from dash.
I do not see that the serial number on the case references the chassis number.
Anyway, great item....I personally am looking forward to more info about it in this thread.
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I don't own a Murcie, yet.....
For Murphy's law, I would remove latch (part # 6) to avoid any binding mishap.
Mark the latch bolts locations with a pencil before removal.
Yes, loosen the bolts you indicated (#22) on the panel.
Mark the hood bolts locations with a pencil before you begin as a fail safe position.
Loosen, adjust, tighten, lower panel, check gaps at at least 2 spots on each of the panels four sides, finalize and torque to spec.
An assistant could be of value!
Once centered and finalized, reinstall latch, which now may also need to be adjusted, test latch and enjoy the rest of your day.
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Great write up. Awesome.
Thank you.
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Go to your hardwood floor supplier/ store.
Utilizing a house key, try to scratch the floor samples that interest you.
Some bamboo products are very scratch resistant, others not so much.
Also do not forget to acclimate the product.
+1 for cheap price vs quality and higher the best installer.
Good luck in your decision.
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FWIW I found with dealer service Beer, Pepsi is very appreciated...... brings a smile.
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Not specific to Benz.
Gas caps are part of the smog/ emissions systems.
Could be loose. Give it another click to tighten.
Seal may be failing. Inspect, possible seal replacement only.
Cap itself may be failing. Replace cap.
If ultimately cap replacement does not cure...read the error codes and maybe "off the to dealer you go."
Good luck.
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You could try searching the for sale section in this website...corvette forum . com
You posted a picture of a nice one.
That Centennial Edition...metallic black paint, red pin striped wheels, special Mr. Chevrolet founder badging and very sticky (fast wearing) Michelin tires.
FWIW on those wheels, I read Chevy powder coats them red first, then black and machine off the black to get the pin stripe.
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Awesome....I hope a quarter turn throttle is available
Supercharged motor. The website sportrider . com has some promotional videos and commentary.
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For the moment...you wish to remove the product the detailer applied.....
Warm water and mirco towel (see post 2)
Use many (many) of towels....some wet some dry.
I be hesitant on that sandpaper post.
As for a new product that is not so shiny...I'll leave those recommendations to others.
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To me if you clean the leather, the dirt will transfer along with the chemical cleaner from the cleaning cloth onto the colored thread.
So, perhaps use masking to cover over the tread before you begin cleaning.
Nothing wrong w/ Lexol and many other brands, old school suggestion - saddle soap.
(I have grey tread in black and I have cleaned the thread with carpet cleaner with no adverse results....yet best to avoid getting the dirt/ chemicals on the thread in the first place. Leather color/dye transfer I have no options/comments)
Break In
in Archived Content
Posted
Some say engines are broken in at the factory.
But, drivetrain, including brakes are not.
FWIW I would certainly drive easy for 500 miles, varying rpms, changing gears, bedding brakes etc and do those oil changes. Personally, I would even pay attention to heat cycling.
A 1000 mile break-in may not be out of the question either.
Above FWIW assumes you will keep the car once warranty has expired.
Else, as you desire, hammer it and IMO sell before warranty expires.
Chances are you would not be the first to not go through a break in period.
Please let us know your decision and if you uncover any issues with either decision.
Good luck.