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BITURBOAMG

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Posts posted by BITURBOAMG

  1. I have been wanting to try this as well. In my car you cant put the car in 2nd in m or s mode even if you upshift, once the car is moving it kicks down but in c mode the car starts in 2nd but the upshifts tend to be a bit lazy so you would be better to upshift yourself. Good luck and keep me posted.

  2. that is a great looking car. What are they asking for it 200k? Is that the mystic white designo pkg? I agree tint, smoke some lights and I would just powder coat the factory wheels black and you are set. I wonder if that color int gets dirty fast?

  3. Kleeman.

     

    good choice allan, what size pulley you going with? dont forget since you are above sea level you will lose 1-2lbs of boost so you can go with a bit larger pulley. i know over here i lost about 2lbs on my 55 car and was going to go bigger to make up for the loss. so when you do you get the car back?

     

  4. Not sue if it is the same as the 55's and 65's but try this. Make sure th display on the dash is the out side temp then put the key in and turn once and hit the reset switch three tims fast. it shoudl change the screen to volts or something then just scroll thru until you see dynometer test off on. But when it is on you have to go into the menu to turn it off it will not turn off when re starting the car.

  5. kleemann can code out the cats. They did this on my e55 and also on the 65. They just find the string of code in the ecu and tell the ecu the cats are still there. I have heard though on the 55 motors that guys that went with a straight through design ending up losing some power. I know on the e55 they take away the primary cats and add down pipes but you still have another set of cats, resonators, mufflers and they gain about 10hp but the guys who have taken eveything out and went with new mufflers lost some power. I would just leave it allan as I think it is pretty free flowing. Look at the headers before the actual exhaust but I am sure they have a free flowing header as well but it is a good place to start. all the tuners start with pulley and ecu then move onth the headers and then into cams and tb. The slr has the 80mm tb and th 55 guys are using slr cams, you are doing the ecu and pulley and I am sure the headers are a free flowing long tube but maybe I am wrong. The ic pumps will keep the car cool and just wire them to be on once you turn the key. I am sure the pulley and ecu will feel great and with the ic pumps and your new 325's in rear the car should move out. You may look at the air filters as well.

  6. THANK YOU SOO MUCH!!! Now I need the pumps! :icon_mrgreen:

     

     

    nothing yet but let me try one other place. I know kleemann and RT will have the pumps but they will want at least 600-800 each and not sure if they are running the cm30 or if they are still using the cm90's. why am i helping you make your car even faster then mine???? I guess I really want to lose when we meet up.

  7. I put Johnson CM30 into ebay and I get nothing?

     

     

    I will check around later today for you. I know there was one person on there that had a bunch and they were cheap and all new. I will ask aroud to see where they are getting them from if ebay is sold out. I know a local guy has some cm90's but they are just so big and some people feel as if they flow too much. Let me see what I can find allan.

  8. To run stock pumps all the time:

     

    There is a little black 4-pin relay at or on the firewall at the back of the motor in the center. Follow the red engine cover shit all the way back and you "should" be able to see it. Its black plastic, about 1" square. Jump pins 2 and 8 and the pumps should run constantly.

     

    OR

     

    To make it undetectable, pull the black cover off the relay and just bend the contacts so they are constantly touching. Snap the cover back on the relay and stick it back in. Voila....

     

     

    Not bad now how do I do that on the sl65?

  9. what did you get in the 1/8th in the slr and gallardo allan? My best in the 65 was 101mph but I feel the 65's tend to fall flat on top end. I have talked to kleemann about this issue and hey agree. We feel due to the small turbos they just run out of steam. It makes sense since I have very little lag and hit peak torque by 4000rpms then just go down hill from there. If you look at a dyno for the 55 vs 65 they are differnt plots. Even the Plastic mess-06, m3, gallardo seem to just keep climbing and climbing while the 65 jumps then falls. Its a give take no car can do it all. I have raced a few cars that I will beat in the 1/4 but in a roll on race they beat me. I agree with you allan that an 8mph difference in the 1/4 is huge. The Plastic mess-06 I talk about has 5mph abd it is a BIG gap in a roll on race between us. You should get some wider light weight wheels for that thing. Like some dymags or neez wheels even if you only save 2-3lbs wheel I am sure you will feel the difference.

  10. I am sure the pumps will be less in issue then the bigger pulley. what brand are you going with? Some are easier to spot then others. It also depends how many slr's they have worked on to. As for what Jtrump said he is right its not a matter of if but of when they will go out. being in AZ I would at least keep the stockers running all the time.

  11. I dont think the tcu is worth it. I know that the rt tcu on the 65's raises the limit by 100-200nm but I dont think it is worth it. As for the ic pumps I agree with Jtrump to either wire them on all the time and you may even be able to do the 10c fan mod as well? You have to think with the new pulley you are adding more boost/heat so even though the pumps have worked good in the past you will have more heat now. You never know maybe with the cm30 pumps you drop you iats by 10 and that would mean more power. I think the math is for every 10 degree drop in iat you gain 10hp or something like that? I dont see you hurting your tranny as it should be good for the 840lbft like the other 5spds and I dont see the slr making that but if you just burn rubber now why make it worse?

  12. Yeah I run on stock tires with normal (36psi) air pressure. When the weather is hot and the DA is high I will brake boost at 1200rpms and launch but now that it is cold out that does nothing but makes the esp kick in and kill the power. I have run in dyno mode a few times when stock and it gave me a bit more mph but after the tune the car will just get sideways in dyno mode. As for juice it, I think the v12tt is too heavy and would have made the slr very nose heavy. I also thin the instant lbft of the 55 motor is better for track use. On the 65 even with all that extra lbft it goes from no lbft to lots of lbft and seems like it would be very hard to get around track. Just a guess though I may be wrong.

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