Countach ball joint removal?

Hi All,

 

Rear suspension and gas tanks are out, engine is out, interior is out, 90% of the stuff under the front hood is out. Front shocks are out. Making progress...

 

So, the big question of the day is: How do I remove the ball joints from the front uprights? Do I put a wrench on the flats of the steel inserts which have been threaded in to the alloy (see picture 2), or...?

 

I enclose some pics. Unthreading the alignment adjusters to seperate the ball joints from the steering rack might be a possibility, but I don't think that would be logical. And how do I remove the upper and lower suspension joints from the uprights?

 

Perhaps an (in)elegant use of force?

 

So, the big question of the day is: How do I remove the ball joints from the front uprights? Do I put a wrench on the flats of the steel inserts which have been threaded in to the alloy (see picture 2), or...?

 

No, do not do this!!!

 

There are as I remember 19mm nuts holding the ball joints inside the hub with washers under them. Remove the small flat oval plates and then you can reach in and feel them. An air impact will be required for the nuts. An air chisel will quickly pop the ball joints loose (use a round pointed tip as the joints all have a concave end). A punch will also work. Remember the tapered inserts in the hubs are left hand threads if your going to remove them. Be careful not to damage your speedo drive as they are expensive to replace.

 

 

Have fun........

Tie rod ends.

 

On the opposite side of the hub from the tie rod joint is an allenhead set screw in the hub. If you remove it you can use a long thin punch to knock out the tie rod joint. Make sure nut and washer were removed from inside hub first.

 

 

More fun......

Let me check out my parts box, I remember buying a set of those ball joints years ago and not using them. If they are still there I'll let you know.

Let me check out my parts box, I remember buying a set of those ball joints years ago and not using them. If they are still there I'll let you know.

 

 

In case John is going to replace them? They are a press fit into the arm and will require a press to remove and install the new ones. They have verticle splines around the perimeter.

 

The lower arm bolt holding the heim at the frame requires 2 people to remove. One being inside the car and the other working from the front boot.

 

"Countach " you should have no trouble recruiting a friend to help!!!!!!!!

 

Best wishes.

Wow. I removed the oval metal plate at the back of the upright, wiggled a 19mm wrench inside the cavity and removed the nut, used a 4.5 mm allen key to remove the plug, found a nice 6mm long drift and a small sledge to drive out the ball joint, and set about removing the ball joint. I had damaged the rubber seal, so I need new one anyways (oops). No matter how hard I try, I cannot get the &(*& thing out. I will buy a special fork shaped wedge thingy tomorrow and keep at it. It seemed fine before I screwed it up, serves me right.

 

The original idea behind removing the ball joint is that there is no other way I can disconnect the front uprights (and suspension arms) from the car as it is going in to the paint shop eventually and I want it as stripped as it can be. The suspension arms also need blasting and repainting.

 

Just wait until the funs stuff begins like removing the steering rack. Yum.

 

Lambo 128, if you have ball joints, I would be honoured to make an offer on them.

 

 

John,

 

If you want to quickly remove the suspension, it can come out as a unit. Unscrew your tie rod adjustments, disconnect your sway bar heims, remove the trailing arm from its forward position, remove the bolt holding the upper control arm at the frame (you might want to keep track of how many shims are used).

 

You said the shock was already removed so the whole assembly will now swing down hanging from the lower arm at the frame. Next get your buddy to help remove the thru bolt I mentioned previously and your suspension is now free from the car.

 

The steering rack is not difficult to remove.

 

Best of luck.

Ralph

I do not like the forks. They easily damage things. Buy an air chisel and learn to use it.

With practice you can walk a seized nut off without hurting anything but the nut.

A tool worth learning to use.

Is there enough adjustibility in the tie rod adjustment to simply unscrew the whole thing? I looked at it and thought not. I guess an alignment is a small price to pay.

 

Will try that on the weekend.

 

Many thanks.

 

 

I am getting closer to the paint shop...