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  1. Your issue is that when heat soak your starter solenoid get stuck, solution for this is to remove starter from vehicle, remove solenoid from housing,(the one with the black connector) take a fine emery paper/sand paper and smoothen out the solenoid surfaces that move in the cylinder , also smoothen out the internal housing of the cylinder in which it sits in, apply a high temperature grease such as Molykote 1000 to the surfaces of cylinder and piston and reinstall back, this should help your issue. There was a service campaign for this a while back but this only helps for a while. This issue only occurs with very high ambient temperature and after switching off engine resulting in heat soak, normally happens after you go and stop for fuel or switch off engine for a while , will normally not happen with external temperature is below 30 degrees C.
  2. Hi there , Just to ask when your engine& gearbox was removed did they replace the e-gear potentiometer sensor?,its possible this sensor could be giving a false reading therefore you are having problems at times engaging reverse,but to get this done you would have to again remove the engine & gearbox assembly to do it ,also did they do allignment of your egear actuator after rebuild? If you are going to remove again the engine & gearbox assembly best you ask them to also check & replace your egear accumulator ,that is a black ball nearby your egear valves group ,this can only be replaced once engine & gearbox is out. Although not common ,there has also been issues with egear wiring harnesses ,but this is a very rare occurence. Regarding your front axle,if there was an issue with it once your on highway it should show on your dash the 4WD warning light,if this pops out it means front axle is overheating,another symptom of front axle overheating is oil will be thrown out from front axle breather ,if this doesn,t happen most probably your front axle is fine. Wish you best of luck with your car,BR.
  3. Hi Siambeast, Yes maybe your car has a defective alternator or a loose ground,best when in dealership they use diagnosis tool to first clear all the fault codes from all systems as a low voltage stalling will generate a lot of faults in the system which are false ,after which they can restart your car with diagnostic tester plug in and look at the measured values through the tester with engine running,that can tell the actual voltage generated by the alternator,if the alternator is giving out low voltage a warning should also appear on your instrument cluster. Another possibility in regards to the alternator could be its supplying enough voltage but the diodes inside the alternator are faulty leading to a voltage reversal inside the alternator,this is not a common issue but possible. Another thing to check is the whether the main voltage wire going to the jump start point in your engine bay is tighten properly,this cable is the thick one that goes into the small black box on the RH side of the engine bay closest to the RH rear bonnet linkage ,also get them to check whether there is a lot of moisture in your engine bay fuse box located just behind RH airfilter housing. Although not common but possible is whether there are rat bites in your engine bay wiring harness . The main voltage cable from alternator is also linked to the starter so best check that also for proper tightening . Best Regards.
  4. Hi,good to hear the shop is making some progress,hope they fix your car,BR.
  5. It,s possible for your stalling issue it could be your carbon canister is full and needs replacing,if you take it to the dealer ,have them carry out recall campaign L73X-R-0117.Your car being a MY12 under this recall campaign would be upgraded with the following: EVAP system(Robustness pack) Purge valves Fuel cap After which your Engine ,Gearbox & Instrument software will be upgraded to work together with these new hardware. This should solve your engine stalling issue when driving in traffic jam in hot weather. Another possibility for your engine to cut out could be an issue with your complete engine wiring harness,this issue with wiring harnesses mainly is an issue in hot climate countries such as Bangkok.The problem with wiring harnesses is the connection issue with the main plug of the harness going to your engine ecu located in the RH rear wheel arch area.This wiring harness issue is very common in hot climate countries. I think you may also have an issue with battery current drain on your car. As for your temperature u need to check with your engine running if both LH & RH radiator fans are running,possibility with Aventadors sometimes a small pebble or stone is stuck in between the fan & the fan shroud,you should also get the dealer to carry out service campaign L83X-A-0714 Coolers and air ducts replacement ,this replaces both radiators and new versions of air shrouds. Most of the other fault codes which appear when you are just starting up your car is most probably mainly caused by low battery voltage during the cranking phase ,once your battery/current drain issue is fixed this should not appear while initial starting provide those systems are trouble free. Best of luck with your car,let me know if you need any more info.BR.
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