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wkumari

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About wkumari

  • Birthday 08/13/1974

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    Northen VA, USA
  1. Yup -- I'm just trying to figure out if I'd like to do so. Having someone able to hop in and press the "Start" button with no key seems "creepy". So, in the tradition of starting a simple project and then making it overly complex and over engineered I've been thinking... New plan (main issue is time) is to have a small Arduino with a proximity card / NFC RFID reader (like http://www.cutedigi.com/sensor/id/nfc-rfid...html#googlebase ) mounted under the drivers seat. I already have a MiFare NFC card in my wallet, sitting on the seat will bring it into range. The (single) button would work like this: Single press - turn ignition on / off. Long press (if on) - starter motor. I've started making the button itself on a 3D printer, pics later today. W
  2. Yup. Form over function?! Yes, this will be more difficult than just turning the key, but, in my opinion, cooler. More importantly it puts the missing center button to use :-) I *could* always remove the ignition lock and disable the steering lock (by removing / filing off the pin), but I'm fine with using the key and the button.
  3. Excellent. Did you do the install yourself? If so, do you happen to remember the wire colors, etc? I'd prefer not to have to spend a few hours crouched in the footwell figuring out the contacts on the ignition switch... I have removed the center switch unit and disassembled it -- pics below. Finding the tactile switch was a bit tricky (no manufacturer / part number), but its a B3E-1100-GREEN. There are a few unpopulated components, 2x 470 Ohm resistors and a SMT LED. I already have the LEDs and resistors in stock and will add them -- they simply provide backlight / illumination for the buttons. I'll also add the switch and try it (before cutting the traces) to see what, if anything the center button does! After that I'll cut the center switch traces and run wires to hook up to a starter unit (I bought a "Pivot Starter Switch" from eBay for ~$15 - cheaper than building myself). I'll provide details / updates as I get this done... Gallery: Gallery
  4. This is a project I've been planning on getting around to for a while, but have kept getting sidetracked... The "missing" center button on the "e-gear" switch unit drives me crazy (the missing button between 'sport' and the traction control) -- I want it to do *something*. I have removed the cover and switch unit (to destickify it) and opened it -- there are two switches, but the center spot is open / missing -- there are traces on the PCB, but instead of a switch there is a little plastic spacer to prop up the button. I took a look at the switches themselves for a manufacturer / part number but was not able to find them (and was in a bit of a rush to get the car put back together). Anyway, my plan is to either open the switch unit again and find the manufacturer and part number or buy a center switch unit from a Gallardo and scavenge a switch from it. I'll then solder the switch into the center spot and cut the traces (they all seem to go to a PIC / processor) and run a wire to a small relay. The contacts on the relay will go to the "crank / start" contact on the ignition switch. I should then be able to put in the ignition key and turn it to the "run" position, and then press the (new) center button for "Engine Start". I realize that this is not really easier than just turning the key the extra bit manually, but, well, I want a "push start" button... I'm also planning on buying a small "Engine Start" button (like http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-22mm-Red...r-/370972678650 but smaller), removing the lens from the button, and mounting that in place of the plain black spacer button. Thoughts? Am I a bit crazy / OCD for not being able to just ignore the missing button? Does anyone else suffer from this affliction?
  5. Awesome, thank you! Yup -- part / much of the issue is simply finding the wires. I'm assuming that the wiring loom goes from the rear actuators through the rear firewall into the cabin, but I haven't found a nice wiring diagram to know which set of wires to start looking at. I'm planning on replacing my SP Engineering Stage II exhaust with a stock muffler and pipes (I have the muffler, still waiting for some pipes). This will require removing the rear deck and spoiler -- when I do this (or, more likely ask Josh @ ECS do this :-)) I'll check the wire colors, etc. I wonder just how unhappy the car will be if I manually actuate it? If it only checks the position feedback after / when it moves the spoiler then presumably it won't care, but if it constantly polls this it might become grumpy that the spoiler actuators are moving when it isn't commanding them to...
  6. Hi there, Please let me know if you end up doing this -- the fact that I cannot raise the spoiler to clean under it drives me nutty. I have images of there being huge clumps of dirt and grime under it :-) W
  7. I might have you beat. I have 2 homes -- one of them (in theory the weekend house, by we actually spend most of our time there) is ~1/2 mile down a dirt road (it's out in the country). I take my Murci there every now and then -- is all fine, I just crawl along at
  8. Sorry for your loss. Yeah, I know the feeling. I was thinking of taking it to the dealer and having them deal with it, but that would have involved backing it out of the shed and up a fairly steep section of driveway to get it onto a truck. Considered that for a while, but decided that there was just too much gas (and I initially was not sure where it was coming from) to risk it. This is unfortunate, as I'm guessing I could have gotten the cost (so far ~$2,500) covered once it became clear what the issue was.
  9. Hi all. I also posted this on another forum, but seeing as it is (IMO) an important warning I figured I'd violate etiquette and post here too. So, I went away on a month long business trip. 2 or so weeks into the trip my wife mentions that there is a strong chemical smell in the garage / shed. I worry a little that it is the batter tender cooking the battery (first time I used it on this vehicle, cannot remember if it is an AGM batt or not...). Anyway, I come back and go have a look -- there is a huge puddle of goop near the driver's side rear tire, and a really strong smell. I had a look, and its dripping something. Turns out its a fuel leak - I turn on the ignition and the tank shows only 1/4 full -- it was completely full when I left... I live out in the country, and so figure a mouse may have gotten in and chomped through a fuel line (yup, I've had a mouse in the trunk -- my wile now calls it my Mousialago), so I remove the passenger tire, then the shrouds. Can't see the source, so I remove the straps holding in the tank, can't see the leak, so more and more bits come out. And then more bits... And then more bits.... (including the batwing so I can reach the fuel lines, the airbox, etc...) Eventually I end up fairly sure it is the tank itself -- I look online and find that there is a recall, but for '07 and '08s ( http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/...000&refurl=rss ). I decide to call the phone numbers listed in the recall to find out if some '06s may also by affected, but those numbers no longer seem to work. I try call Customer Care as well -- leave a VM, no call back.... Anyway, I'm a fair bit along with the removal by now, and so I end up deciding to pull the entire tank myself. This requires removing the brake calipers, suspension and axle. This is more than I'm comfortable doing, so I call Josh at ECS, who kindly make a house-call and gives me a hand. Anyway, we pull the entire tank out and it turns out that the foam that goes under the tank to cushion it was not properly installed. This has caused the tank to vibrate and wear through the tank, at one of the spots where the baffles attach. More photos: https://www.kumari.net/gallery/index...nk-replacement I have ordered a replacement from Ricambi, should be arriving soon, then it's a bunch of reassembly. Anyway, I wanted to warn others to check for this issue. If I hadn't been out of town for a few weeks I probably wouldn't have seen this and it could have ended up spraying on the exhaust -- we don't need more pictures of flaming Lambos. I'm planning on putting this info on a blog as well, do y'all think I should also mention it to the NTSB / someone?
  10. Quick followup -- I got the hood emblem off. Sure enough, there is only a single nut at the front. There are two more bolts sticking out of the emblem (near the A and the N in Lamborghini), but they just slide into positioning holes in the hood and have no nuts. There *is* however some really strong double-sided holding it down. I tried the standard fishing-line and saw technique, but that just started cutting through the plastic backing. Ended up attacking it with a heat gun and interior trim removal tools. The metal got a little bent while dong this, have ordered a shiny new replacement...
  11. Depends on how thorough a job I'm doing -- usually I just keep the hose pressure low, and wipe away the few small splashes. I do have a Shamrock Auto Trim soft parking cover that I sometimes put on to prevent splashes, but usually don't bother. When washing the rear deck / hood I usually open it first, and put a few microfiber towels down under the horizontal hood vents. This helps prevent too much water getting in around the plugs / coil packs. W
  12. Hi all, Does anyone know how to remove the front hood emblem? There is a small (5mm) bolt that holds down the front end of it. Parts diagrams show a second bolt towards the top / right, but I cannot figure out how to reach that -- I have removed the hood latch part, but there is a brace that seems to cover the area where the other bolt would be. The clear coat on mine has failed and I'd like to re-coat it... Any assistance appreciated.
  13. So, this is one of those stupid OCD questions - 'tis been bugging me for a long time... At the very top if the instrument cluster there is a legend showing "N123456" (on an '06 Murci) -- is this supposed to light up to show what gear you are in? Mine doesn't; I do get the current gear displayed in the center of the instrument panel, but no lights, etc behind the N123456 bit. I'm beginning to suspect that this is just so you know what comes after fourth and before sixth, but... I'm somewhat OCD -- if it really doesn't do anything, I'm considering pulling the instrument cluster and removing the lettering :-P [EDIT]: I *did* search for a while first, no love!
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