achilles99

I just did this on my 560 bumper upgrade, giallo midas. Do yourself a favor, BLEND IT! I went through 3-4 trips back and forth to get it right. Bodyshop did 12-14 spray out cards (2 coats of yellow/1 coat of metallic, 3 coats/2 metallic, etc. and every combination in between with clear coat). Even though the cards matched the color of the hood, when they finished spraying it wouldn't. Depends on how the metallic flakes fall, etc. I was trying to avoid the blend because I had clearbra on my hood and fenders. I ended up having to rip off the old clear bra, blend everything, and then put on new clearbra. I would say my match was 80%-90%, but trust me... you won't be able to live with it lol. In my case, the problem was magnified because the bumper had a slightly different angle than the hood, which played tricks in different lighting conditions.

There is a used ultralight going for $850 online right now... great condition, I'd snag it except it's too light for clays. Perfect for field, though. Just don't want to shoot too many rounds through it in a day I guess. I've heard it's not built as tough and will butcher your shoulder.

What do you consider a true skeet gun? I always think of o/u's as true skeet... and you are right, easier to clean. Easier to pick up shells too lol.

Not to go too off topic, but I'm looking for a Beretta Silver Pigeon now. Been using a modified Remington auto, switching to o/u. You? BTW, I had a bit of gravel off-roading to do to get to the range. The lift helps

The Gallardo is very versatile. The other day, my SUV was boxed in by my wife's car (and she of course took the keys to both vehicles when she took our other car). I had to meet clients for skeet shooting. Didn't think I could fit my shotgun in the Gallardo... but the shelf behind the seat fit it perfectly

Mike - sorry for the thread-jack, but hey tracking a car is related to rear tire wear right Carol - if it's got a probe on your gauge, you should be fine checking temps. Just make sure to insert the probe at the same depth for each reading. I actually don't stick it all the way into the rubber. I put about 5 pounds of pressure onto it, which barely goes into the surface. The only advantage to having the other pyrometer is that it has memory to store all of your readings for multiple sessions. If you don't have this, someone has to go behind you and write down all of your readings for each tire. If you write it yourself, it takes too long and the tires cool off by the time you take all the readings. It also predicts where the temperature will stabilize, not sure if your gauge will do the same but it might since longacre makes it. BTW, you mentioned you changed to larger pulleys on the SMG... doesn't that decrease hp (but also decreases spool times, good thing)? I thought smaller pulleys increase HP, but at the same time it increases spool times (bad thing). Not sure which would be better for the track, probably depends on which you are at? Let me know if you guys ever make it to Road Atlanta again, that's my home track!

If you are sharing the car, you are DEFINITELY overheating the tires. I did that one event with a friend, and we fried a new set of tires in one weekend. Having a second set of dedicated track tires is honestly the cheapest way in the end, but requires you either tow the car (that's what I do) or use a DOT legal set like RA1's. I prefer towing because I can bring spare tires and all of my tools. Sounds like you are hooked, so I'm willing to bet that eventually you'll end up with a similar setup lol. Be sure to bleed your brakes. I use racing fluid too, or you'll boil brakes (not good to be able to stop, especially if heading towards a wall). Eventually you'll go to race pads and race rotors too. The faster you go, the faster you'll want to go. Cycle never ends! That's a nice temp gauge. I don't think it replaces a pyrometer though, since the pyrometer helps you figure out what pressure you need. Gauge tells you what the pressure should be based on temperature, but that assumes you know what pressure you need. Won't know that without a pyrometer. Plus, as the day progresses your driving style will change. I check pyro temps a few times throughout the day. Good luck!

That's a high curb! Would screw up your suspension and camber settings eventually, but I doubt that's what's chunking your tire. Depending on track temps, you could be overheating the tires. The reason why a lot of people shave their track tires is because the tread blocks overheat and sheer off. Sometimes, shaving can increase the life of a tire because it holds in a lot less heat. Your chunking actually reminds me of a set that we had overheated once... our dry tires were damaged so we had to use our wet full-tread tires. They overheated, since there was no rain, and started chunking similar to yours. Again, you could test this theory by looking at tire temps. We use this one: http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/4-Garage/1...-WITH-STOPWATCH It's important to get readings as soon as you get off the track. That device lets you take the 12 readings you need within minutes. The tire probe also has logic built in that calculates what the temperatures would be even though the temps might rise as you sit there (ie, it calculates/normalizes what the stabilized temperature would be). That gives you a more accurate baseline to make changes to car setup and pressures. I'm glad to hear you are out there tracking your car... for those that don't, they are truly missing out on some fun!

What was the difference between your inside and outside temps? You want it to be about 10-20 degrees. If it's a lot hotter than that on the outside, you'll need more camber (negative). If it's hotter on the inside, you need to drive harder or have less camber As suggested by others, the wear pattern looks to me like it's overinflated. You would know this is true if the middle temp is higher than the inside or outside. Ideally, you would want a smooth temperature increase (5 degrees or so) between the outside, middle and inside. I shoot for something around 160 (outside), 165 (middle), 170 (inside). The high temp will depend on the tire compound you are using. Some tires like it hotter, some don't. Here's a good read: http://949racing.com/using-a-tire-pyrometer-949-racing.aspx When we finally got our temps right, we tripled our tire life and lap times improved.

Did you use a tire pyrometer to check temps on the inside, middle, and outside of tread? Looks like it could be a pressure and/or camber issue. I had tire wear like that when on the track, before I invested in a tire pyrometer. You'll save on the cost of tires big time...

Exhaust heat might have something to do with it. Light was working fine again after car cooled off. Very strange, I wasn't even driving the car that hard when the light went out...

I just ran into this same problem tonight. I was able to change the bulb WITHOUT removing the wheel by taking off the grill with the 4 allen screws, taking the two screws off that face the rear of the car on the light (be careful, there is a nut on the other side that will fall through if you don't hold it), and also taking the nuts off the two vertical studs that are on the bottom of the light. After you do that, you can pivot the entire light assembly up and reach behind to grab the bulbs. However, when I removed and reinstalled the bulb the light started working again. Of course, after I put the bulb socket back into the tail light and reinstalled everything, the light stopped working again. What did you do to fix the problem? I may just go take the bulb out again and get a replacement. Filament might be loose?

Hail damage.

04/05 Gallardo, probably worth $80k... gets a ton of publicity. Will be recycled on lord knows how many websites. That's pretty cheap advertising if you think about it. 30 seconds/$3MM for SuperBowl.

Hey KMR, I talked to a tech, and he recommended I remove the V1 from the airbag circuit. According to him a small surge from the V1 could prevent the airbag from deploying in an accident, or possibly deploy it while driving. Apparently they are twitchy. Running a wire down the pillar and into the fusebox was just as easy, and took away those concerns. Better safe than sorry!

Yes, great write-up! The only thing I would add is to make sure that the black inner plastic piece comes off with the bumper. I took way too long trying to remove the painted bumper from the black plastic, when all I had to do was remove it all at once. Not sure if my 06 is different, but I actually had 3 bolts down low as well as 2 bolts midway up that held the metal brackets to the innter plastic piece/bumper. I also had to remove the two grills, and remove two bolts on each side to release the inner plastic piece from the frame. Finally got the bumper off, next off is installing the 560 bumper. Looks like I have to cut out two holes in the bottom for the plastic oval shaped protectors. I thought I could avoid doing this, but the frame actually protrudes BELOW the hole. So, the oval shaped protectors actually cover up what would otherwise be metal poking through the bumper hole. Thanks guys!

I'm installing a 560 bumper reproduction, and am stuck trying to remove the stock bumper. I've gotten all the screw off (took forever to figure out how to remove trim pieces that hid screws), but there are black tabs that snap into grooves along the side of the bumper near the side markers. I can see them, just not sure how to release them. Thanks!

Well, thanks to Lamborghini Atlanta the problem is solved. A plastic black airbag key (from a 2008) worked! Apparently, the same airbag key slot is used for the 2006. Swif, if you find a part number please post to help others who might run into this problem!

Black key? Gotta part number? Thanks for checking...

What's funny is that the key fits the 02-07 murci, 04 gallardo, but nothing else is listed for the other year G's. Looks like key is going back, unless someone needs it. You can have it for $20 (what I paid), otherwise I'll be mailing it back for a refund. Still, what fits the 06 Gallardo coupes???

Any luck Swif? Does ANYONE have a 2006 coupe out there lol?

I know there is a key slot in the glovebox to deactivate the airbag. However, the airbag key I ordered does not fit (for some reason, it is listed for 2004 but no keys are listed for 2006). My ignition key doesn't seem to fit either. Can someone with a 2006 tell me exactly which key fits yours? I've heard of a plastic key in a 2008, but I've also heard the ignition key works in a 2008. I'm wondering if there is another special key for the 2006? Thanks!

Has anyone unlocked their navigation unit recently? I've tried PM'ing Proxus but haven't received a response. If you have an email, or better yet contact number, for someone preferably in the the US who can do the unlock please let me know. I've sent a message to Navparts as well with no response: http://navparts.com/services/lamborghini-n...conversion.html

In case anyone is looking to do this, DON'T! While I was installing, I accidentally touched the power and ground wires together and blew a fuse. The fuse is for the AIRBAG. Not good. Apparently, the wire in the overhead light is for the "PASSENGER AIR BAG" warning light, which in turn is connected to the airbag fuse. Not sure if anything could go wrong, but it's probably not a good idea to add any more strain to that circuit. I ended up running a wire down the trim to the fuse panel, and used an "add-a-fuse" to the homelink fuse for switched power.

Good idea. I'm afraid, though, that since the temp gauge used to take a while to move that the lowest value is actually below the least value shown (ie, I may have to pre-wind the need to below the metal "stop", and then move the needle past the stop.). It does give me a good starting point though. What oil temp and pressure do you see after the car is warmed up (and you are idling)?