Andrew R.

Yup, that was me. Read through this thread: http://www.lambo-power.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4994 It tells how to get that grill removed... as far as getting the black grill piece out of that frame, you probably dont need to remove the rivets, those side pieces that you are looking at are removed by phillips head screws on the back. If you want to break down those side black pieces then you will have to drill the rivets. For the center piece.. it is just held in by small socket head fasteners. Not a bad job to do. Any ideas yet on how you are going to bring the black back? Powder coat, paint, anodize ? I have a set of those rear lights and emblems (all brand new and in the bag), I bought the stuff before deciding on upgrading the grill. If you are interested let me know. Here is what mine looked like after the update:

No weight scale data here.. but... yeah, from working on friend's cars... they seemed about the same lifting them on and off (6.0s & my lownenharts). I remember with some of the Viper wheels, there is a noticable difference between some of the wheels..

Hahaha Adam, not exactly the honor roll.. just still pretty fresh out of school so some things are still somewhat fresh in my head. Thank God I am done, I have been there forever (work was paying my tuiton so I stuck around for 3 engineering degrees from UofM).

Hmm.. trying to remember back to chemistry class.. I am not so sure that higher octane fuel burns any easier. I thought the only think of interest in higher octane fuel is ability to be compressed well without igniting (more compression usually means more HP, so you often see performance cars requiring a higher octane level). When you seperate crude oil into different fuels you get hydrocarbon links of different lengths. Octane (which is eight hydrocarbons linked together) has good tolerance for compression, so the higher the octane level, the more compression the fuel can handle before igniting from compression. So when you buy 90 octane, you are buying 90% and 10% of something else, which is usually heptane (with ignites with little compression). Hope that helps.

Since I dont care for how tall 1st gear is (which I think has a lot to do with the short clutch life people experience).... I have thought about putting a lower gear in the rear (the factory SE gear) and at the same time removing the VT components because they dont make a lower front gear to match. I was in a 2wd Diablo with the SE gear and that thing had all kinds of punch out of the hole!!! The only thing that has prevented me from doing this is the fear of making the car harder to sell in the event that I needed to sell it.

Who makes that triple disk? How does it compare to an OS Giden clutch? (heard good things about them recently..)

What luck has everyone had with the triple disk clutches?

wow, I think I like that much better than the leather.. where can I get those pieces from?

Wow... I dont know how I feel about that one.. definatly dont like the sound of it...

I use AGIP SINT2000 which is a blend (its mostly synthetic)

That is a good point.. there are a lot of dealerships out there that couldnt care less about the customer. I am sure we could all tell a few stories...

Cisco, you know someone that put diesel in thier lambo?

Yup.

Check out this site, there is a pretty decent writeup about it on here. http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs.htm

First of all, dont sweat this that much... we'll get it worked out (I had a small issue when I first got my car, and as much as I was worrying about it I over looked the simple problem of what was wrong). Starting with the issue of the car not turning over (I am not happy yet that the battery is ok): Even if the battery took a full charge and all that, it still might not have the balls to turn the car over (if the cell is going bad). After checking the voltage and charging it, the battery needs to be load tested which is something most auto parts stores can do. If you had an amp probe, you could take a look at the current draw while trying to turn it over. How old is the battery is that is in it? You might just pop a $100 and get an Optima redtop for the car. You want to have a good battery in there anyways. Have you checked all the electrical connections? (battery posts, starter, soleniod, etc...) This problem could be as easy as that, actually that would be the very next thing I would do. I have had a couple different cars acted pretty weird when the battery was going..

Hmmmmmmm, sounds like there may be more than one thing going on... click-click-click usually means the battery doesnt have the balls to support the load. Do you have a voltage meter? Wondering what the battery voltage is? Guessing you dont, but do you have a hall-effect amp meter (one that reads dc current) ? it would be handy to know what is pulling what on the car. I can next day air it to you if you want to borrow it.

Wow..the suspense... I am very curious as well as to what it is...

This is what I have, sounds pretty good: -Alpine CVA1003 multimedia head unit -Alpine CHA-S624 cd changer -JL 250/1 subwoofer amp -kicker comp sub -sony explode crap amp, will be replaced soon with an alpine or JL amp for the mids

Something feels weird about this one... has it been up on eBay or on here recently (wondering if there is more to the story)? Price isnt bad at all if everything is legit..

Hey, I'll take one in carbon fiber if someone is going to make a few...

Good one

Yeah... I have the red piping on the tan leather leather... looks great IMO. I dont know how easy that will be able to do yourself.. there are shops out there that will do it though..

That is possible.. but I dont know how likely it is... because.. you cannot put the occupants safety riding on the blower motor in the climate control unit. Things fail all the time in those units.. blower motors, fuse for that circuit, thermal overload in the resistor circuit, etc...

I looked into the climate control system on the car, I dont understand why lamborghini decided to make it so its always on (I am an engineer in a climate control factory for one of the big three and all of our systems can be turned off at the control head, unlike this one). So with the climate control system always being on, the a/c compressor clutch comes in and out as required to maintain the set temperature.

Not sure if I am thinking of the same thing, but don't those "air restrictors" do something to settle the highly turbulent air coming through?