Stimpy

Sorry about that. I didn't take super careful measurements because I was just looking for a PVC pipe to put on the inside to splice the hose with hose clamps. Sounds like the 45mm in the ebay link above is the right size.

That's makes it sound like my idea is not so crazy and will work. I would recommend putting some silicon adhesive on the male nipples coming out of the headlight to hold the rubber hoses on better. They are barely on there to begin with so if you add the weight of the balloons with desiccant, even though that's not a lot of weight, they are likely to fall off from the vibrations during driving.

I wouldn't think the Hermera of Hurcules wheels would be a problem. I have my Speedlines in the attic and Hercules wheels on my car, and I don't have the ABS coming on like I did with the larger aftermarket wheels.

You could be right, but desiccant will work over a long time to pull the moisture out of the air even through those thin tubes. And since you are sealing off the outside air from coming it, the desiccant has a good chance of winning over the long run.

Hopefully someone knows. Do you have stock wheels on the car, or aftermarket? I borrowed a set of 19/20's while mine were being refinished, and I did notice the ABS cutting in surprisingly when it normally never does while I had those wheels on.

How old are your tires? ABS doesn’t come on unless there are wheels skidding. Mine certainly doesn’t Maybe your tires are tired from age. They start to lose it after 5 years from date of manufacture. So many factors of age/wear/etc that can cause brake systems to be blamed for stinking. Age of/quality of/air bubble in brake fluid, flexible brake likes collapsing from age, pad condition and type, sliding brake parts not lubed, brake discs worn unevenly and/or too much, tires tired, etc.

Yes, I have an idea so crazy it might work. This problem is not unique to the Murci, as I saw a lot other super cars with mist inside their headlights on a humid coffee and cars morning. My idea is to take small balloons, fill them with desiccant and tiewrap them to the 4 hoses coming out of the bottom of the headlight. The desiccant would absorb the moisture that would otherwise coat the inside of your lenses and the balloons would expand and compress to keep the pressure inside the headlights equalized with the atmosphere.

Can you post a link to the hose you bought?

You’re welcome! Happy if my posts help. It’s about 1.5” inner diameter. I didn’t remove the hose, just cut, reversed, and spliced with a pipe. Probably around 5-6 feet.

Almost all from the top. I’d like to learn how they did it. Still have your front diff? How many hours did they charge?

I’d use hot water instead of a microwave, but it’s so slow going with the limited access that I think it would cool before you could benefit from the softer warm rubber.

Can you post a pic of which fitting and showing how you would get to it? So little room to work with the front diff in place, but I am very open to learning about better ways to do things!

Here's my video showing what I am talking about above:

I would also check breakers in Europe for used parts from wrecked cars. They have manuals over there.

So it's been mentioned that you should take an extra 5 mins to proactively replace the 4" long power steering return hose in the front of the car above the front differential during your next oil change. Well, let me tell you, if you still have your front differential, it's no 5 minute job! In fact, there will be moments that you will think it has become a 10 hour+ job of dismantling the entire front of the car to get that hose back on! The issue is that the section of hose is only 4 inches long, and it's very thick rubber that doesn't want to bend, and you can't get your hands into the area from above or below to bend that hose at an extreme angle to get it on to the pipes that are not lined up with each other. Getting it off wasn't even fun. I ended up using a long knife to cut the hose at the ends and then push it off. When I got off the old hose, it looked in great shape both inside and out with no signs of cracking, stiffening, or ballooning. I also found it hard to buy 1/2" inner diameter power steering return hose locally. I had to have a NAPA store order it, and then drive a long way to the closest NAPA to pick it up. No other part stores had the right size. So get the hose before you start the project! You can definitely mail order it if you don't have a NAPA nearby. I'll update this thread with some videos shortly to show why it's a difficult job and how I found a way to do it. It was another Lamborghini Chinese puzzle, because it's clear that hose was put on while they were assembling the car, with no intention to make it easy to change. If it weren't for some really long curved needle nose pliers in my tool kit, along with some tricks I stumbled on at the time to get the hose back on, I would not have been able to do the job without major disassembly of the car (such as dropping the front diff).

My earlier car didn't have a spring. Instead of a spring, what they needed to do was put a right angle joint instead of getting a short, thick hose to bend 90 degs. I plan to do that next time I am in there.

Well then everyone should check theirs. I hope these posts help out.

lambo*stuff shows everything in the "gearbox control tower" to either be in stock or available to order. New it looks like it's around $8-9K in parts. If they can get it, Glen at AHM can get it and for less.

The alternator has its own fan so it’s sucking in cold air through that tube whenever the engine is turning. That hose and the housing on the back of the alternator are a really good idea, but unfortunately it’s a rare setup. I wish all cars has the same setup since heat is a big enemy of alternators. I have seen that same housing for sale, so it could be adapted to alternators that suck in air from the back. They don’t all breath that way though.

Steel braided hose in 1 and 1/2” inner diameter? I guess. You can use whatever. I was just sharing what I did that kept it stock looking and extended the hose life for another decade.

The hose connected to the alternator that brings cool air from the scoop on the right side of the car tends to deteriorate from the heat of the exhaust right below it. Instead of spending $200 for a new hose (that should cost $10 of course), and instead of putting a non-stock hose, I opened up the wheel liner and cut the hose and turned it around and spliced it with 1-1/4" PVC tube and hose clamps. I did the splice on the long run next to the fuel tank so it's hidden by the wheel liner. That'll give me another 10 years on that hose. Side note, it's surprising how little air is used from that big scoop on the right. There's a duct that the hose connects to in back of that big scoop, and it's just a little sliver compared to the scoop.

I ran across the post below, either here or on another forum, a while back and added this hose to my list of things to check next time I had the rear left wheel liner out. It's not an easy hose to see, but it's really easy to reach and change because there are no hose clamps, and mine was literally falling off anyway! I can only guess that Lambo didn't use fuel vapor rated hose because there's no heat from the engine to deteriorate it like that. The hose is on the top of the charcoal canister, just on the other side of oil cooler. It was easy putting on a new hose. I had been getting occasional P0442 codes, but I though it was the fuel cap. I am surprised I didn't have a constant code looking at the state of the hose in the pics. This is for an 04 Murci with 18K miles and a generally easy life of always being garaged. Thanks to the original poster! P0442 - Thanks Ragin Bull Perf Mates Had this code keep popping up. Called Ragin Bull Perf (they performed a PPI) on my car before I bought her. Mike suggested removing drivers rear wheels and liners. Inspect the hose from white valve to canister for damage. BINGO - hose was damaged and leaking. Replaced hose and so far no more code. Next up.. changing plugs. Thanks Mike (RBP)

I finished the A/C project yesterday, and no problem running with the decklid off. It really helped because I found an exhaust clamp that needed more tightening to seal properly. Thanks again!

Excellent, thanks murcivu!

Anyone know if you run the engine without the rear deck lid if you get a wing dash light? And if you get a wing dash light, does it go out when you reconnect it, or is it an annoying design like the airbag light that needs a Lambo computer to reset it? I am finishing up the new AC compressor/Drier and it's much easier to work around the high side without the deck lid in the way, but I can definitely leave it on and connected if it's going to cause me a problem. TIA -- With the DIYer's around here, I am sure someone around here has tried this before.