Jump to content

Jeff DiBart

LP Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Long Island, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi mods: Wondering if you can help me change my username so my posts done come up in google searches if people are looking for me. Can we make it dibart77 ? Thanks! -Jeff
  2. Yup, thanks @jefflambo. I am on it. Part ordered. Dealer is either clueless or trying to get over on me. Neither works for me. Thanks for helping!
  3. Hello! I am a two Lambo owner! 2001 Lamborghini Diablo 6.0 - Rosso Vik 2008 Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 - Grigio Antares Can you switch me to Lambo Owner status? Thank you! -Jeff
  4. This is great! My e-brake release on my Diablo 6.0 is as goopy as your wife's umbrella handle. Looks like this is the solve! I am going to try. Off to CVS!
  5. OK. @sprite GTE looks really promising. Their reviews are out of this world. They are only 65 miles from my house (I am in NY). Sounds like I would be best to just bring the car there and have him do the clutch/TOB/etc. AND whatever needs to be done on the actuator. Thanks for the information. I am going to reach out on Tuesday. Sprite, if this works out beers are on me next time I am in ATL (my daughter goes to school at UGA). Thank you for your advice!
  6. Hi guys. I am hoping this community of Lambo enthusiasts can combine our collective knowledge to help me solve an issue with my 2008 Murcielago LP640 (e-gear). Here's the deal (and sorry it's a novel)... The car has around 20k miles on it. I was due for my NY state inspection, and I decided that rather than taking it to the independent exotic shop I usually use (who doesn't have a Lambo computer), I'd instead take it to the dealer so that I could have them connect to the computer and check the remaining clutch life. Was a half hour drive there. Car drove perfectly normal same as it has for the past 3 years I have owned it. Stopped for gas on the way, restarted fine, drove to dealer with no issues. Car was awesome as always. Dealer calls me 2 days later and tells me the clutch is done with 7.67mm after subtracting original and current, as shown here on photos the tech took: OK... I knew the clutch was probably getting there, although generally I have had no issues. Once in a blue moon it would randomly switch back to neutral when I put it in first, but NOT flashing N indicating an e-gear issue. I always just chalked it up to the slightly clunky Murcie e-gear. But I knew it was about time for a clutch. So fine, the clutch is done. HOWEVER, then he told me, "But when I first got in it after you dropped it off, when I went to start it the starter didn't crank the first few times." I asked him if he undid the immobilizer. "Yes. Then, when I went to put it in gear, it pops right back to flashing N. For either first gear or R. I have to hold the paddle to force it to go in gear." (Now guys, this has NEVER happened to me. And now mysteriously after a perfect 30 min drive to the dealer that had no issues and felt just like every drive in the last 3 years, it coincidentally fails the second the tech gets in? I'm thinking WTF...) So now they tell me that the potentiometers for the e-gear position sensors (front-to-back, side-to-side so it knows what position the shift rods are in) are also shot. He shows me this: Then he says, "Unfortunately, the potentiometers are not a standalone part; they are part of the actuator. A new actuator is $11,000." Now I'm freaking. The clutch job just went up by about 50%. So... I have read threads on here and other forums that say, "Unfortunately, yes, it's an engine out to replace the potentiometers. It's a cheap part, but engine out to replace. In the Gallardo you can reach them without dropping the engine." I realize the engine needs to come out (for the clutch anyway), but I'm trying to figure out if I can replace these "cheap" potentiometers without replacing the actuator ($11k). BTW, I don't think this is battery voltage-related. I keep it on a C-Tek tender, and in some of the photos the tech sent me the Lambo computer says "battery voltage 13.881v" or something. And the e-gear does prime when you open the door. I'm also wondering... is there a chance he hooked up the computer and somehow cleared the e-gear learned slip position settings (PIS), etc. and that's why these potentiometers are now erroring? Anyway... let's assume I need the potentiometers. I don't see anything in the e-gear section of the shop manual about potentiometers that can be replaced. I can't find any e-gear related potentiometers on the parts diagram on bullstuff.com. Has anybody encountered anything like this? Can you maybe point me to the part numbers of the potentiometers? Or ANYTHING that can help? Or did you indeed need to replace the actuator? Or maybe if the just runs the self-learn procedure those potentiometers will stop erroring? Thanks everyone for any advice you can provide! -Jeff
  7. JEFF! You are THE MAN. I got the part out. (Now I gotta put half the tunnel back together (dammit). Should have pinged here first. Thank you! -Jeff
  8. Thanks, Jeff. So you're saying on this piece (see image) those are just clips that snap into the center console frame? I somehow thought they were screwed in from the back. How hard do I need to yank (I am so afraid of busting the carbon fiber)?
  9. Hi all! It's my first post here! I have a 2008 LP640 in Grigio Antares with e-Gear. I want to upgrade the stock Kenwood double-DIN stereo to a new Kenwood with CarPlay, bluetooth, etc. I thought it would be a breeze -- use the two removal keys that came with the new Kenwood, stick 'em in the slots, the old Kenwood slides out. However, as far as I can tell, the slots for the DIN tool are covered by the carbon fiber surround (the part that above has the climate control buttons in it, etc). Is this right? because it looks to me that in order to get that trim off, I need to remove the carbon fiber from the top of the tunnel (where the windows, nose lift, etc. buttons are), then remove the passenger grab handle, then try to remove the screws holding the stereo trim piece, and THEN remove the stereo. Am I a spaz or is there an easier way? Can the kenwood DIN key tools actually fit in without removing the trim? Please help! Thanks everyone! -Jeff
  • Create New...