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  1. Thanks but my Capristo clip still sounds a bit farty on the shifts, although I just noticed that Fabspeed video did the same. Guess I should be doing 7K+ shifts & see how that sounds. As far as clip of me getting out of the car, not sure who that was driving so fast on a side street...haha. But here’s me stocking up on legalized energy.
  2. Although I like the Capristo and its ability to change quiet to loud with a remote button, I noticed my car & some other video clips with Capristo tend to be kind of farty at the shift points. Not sure why that is. Maybe my RPM is just too low when shifting or I am letting up on the gas a bit out of habbit since this is my first paddle shift car rather than stick. I don't notice it when in the car, but notice it on videos.
  3. Sorry you’re not happy with it. Mine came with primary cats still in place due to CA & I like it. Here’s a rookie video I did a few years ago, although I didn’t take the RPM too high as I was just getting used to the car.
  4. Thanks to Raging Bull in Costa Mesa my passenger mirror now works again. They rebuilt my existing mirror with new gear & motor. This was something way beyond my capabilities especially without damaging something else in the process so it was well worth having the experts handle it. Seems the small plastic gear broke right in half.
  5. Good idea to fix it. I am taking mine in tomorrow for rebuild on the passenger side. Seems there are some downsides with the brass gear unit and the plastic too, so just doing plastic. I figure if it lasted 10 years already then I may get 10 more out of a rebuild. You are right, they stick out way too far to keep extended all the time. I already accidentally bumped into my drivers side mirror by leaving them out, but seems ok.
  6. Seems my day finally arrived where the passenger mirror no longer moves. Months of slight coaxing while working the switch was working pretty well, but as you can see now stuck in the middle position. It doesn’t even make a grunt/gear noise anymore, although driver side works fine so I figure no fuse blew. If I could just get it to open all the way then I would just leave it like that in the fully open position but no luck...ugh!
  7. JanDaMan

    Lambo wreck

    Sad to see: https://ktla.com/2019/05/16/19-year-old-woman-25-year-old-man-idd-as-2-killed-in-fiery-lamborghini-crash-in-sepulveda-basin/?fbclid=IwAR1mrFzAnmmfiP6lc2UCy-9yDLKInZLMGdZjN0LPpS5sFfVGeG-lWbZzQE8
  8. Thanks for the offer. I sent you my address if you have something that works that would be great. Actually the R doesn't look too bad right now that I got off some more of the gummy stuff, although it is now slightly different in appearance from the other buttons. I was just afraid of messing with it further so I left it as is for now.
  9. Yeah stimpy I will definitely be careful of what I use, that is if I even decide to mess with it more. The very light application of Goo Gone I tried showed a little black on my cloth applicator so I figured that's not good. To the most extreme, if this stuff is in fact gooey clear coat stuff then we know acetone would take that off, but I sure am not trying that ha ha. Next in line for severe may be paint thinner. I have used that with success on my license plate stickers to get the old sticker goo off after removing the old sticker and it does not harm the shine on the license plate (however may be too strong for the buttons). The back to black sounds like I may try that next since it is meant for rubber or may try the very diluted rubbing alcohol. I have some 3M cleaner/wax that works wonders on restoring shine to my clear bra, so that may be an option. I guess the trickiness here is to remove the gooey clear coat and leave the rest of the black button surface intact, so there is definitely a fine line.
  10. Thanks, I may try a little diluted rubbing alcohol next. I don't think the warm water and dish soap would do it since it seems to be a sticky clear coat coming off but I may try that as well anyway. not a huge deal, but being an anal guy I notice it on occasion. Here is a photo of what I am talking about. The simple green took some of it off, but the rest on the outside surface is a bit stubborn. Then if it comes off the button will be a bit darker than the other buttons with that coating gone but at least won't look crapy.
  11. I just tried some Goo Gone too and with a bit of rubbing and several applications it still didn’t get the sticky coating off so I left it alone fearing more harm than good if I kept at it. Looking back at my photos I think what happened was possibly technician had a bit of brake fluid on the finger when I went in for fluid flush because the button was clean & intact before but dirty after. Now knowing the surface is clear coat, I see how brake fluid could alter that surface easily.
  12. I thought for sure there was already a post on this & tried searching by "sticky" & "buttons" but no luck. Anyway, some of the buttons on my LP640 are starting to have a dull sticky surface and I am wondering what others are cleaning their buttons with. I suspect this is common over time because my MBZ SL65 was also getting it. On my MBZ I used some diluted simple green with light rubbing with a micro fiber cloth. I should have done a before & after photo, but here is the after where it cleaned it pretty good and left the white parts intact. I am a bit hesitant to try it on the Lambo but I figure if it worked on the MBZ button sticky buttons then maybe it would do the same with the Lambo. I am still just a bit afraid of the white portion of the Lambo buttons even if it worked on my MBZ. Anyone have luck with DIY cleaners for their buttons? Not sure what that sticky stuff is, maybe some surface coating from the factory that eventually deteriorates over time?
  13. Very nice! Pearl white is one of my favorites! Many years of enjoyment for you, I waited til 60 years old!
  14. Looks exactly like mine, replaced about a year ago pre smog test. Some suggested maybe the fuel cap was giving a bad code but I cleaned that up real good and the code returned, so it was the hose like yours.
  15. Maybe someone can help me understand why regular insurance policies (such as AAA, Farmers, etc.) don't offer Agreed Value policies. It seems only collector car insurance policies offer Agreed Value policies and I just can't understand why. For regular instance if a car is worth 250k such as through an annual appraisal or simply by both parties agreement then shouldn’t it be insured for 250k with dollar amount in the policy and then premiums paid for that value? In regular insurance you naturally pay higher premiums for a higher value car (so in reality a value is placed on the car and the only difference is that no value is stated in the regular type policy). The insurance company must have placed a value on it, otherwise how did they establish how much your annual policy would cost to protect it. Of course many things go into the cost of a policy, but the cars value must be somewhere in the equation no? So what's the big secret? I know the obvious reason we all may say they don't offer Agreed Value policies and put that dollar in the policy is so that they can bend you over if the car is stolen etc. and essentially "then" peg your car at a dollar amount they feel is right and leave you to fight for the real value (which we all know ends up a useless battle with the insurance company or even in court with court costs, etc). So that's the actual reason, so they can bend you over later? There must be more reason to it that that.
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