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  1. Yup you got that right, I was pretty much rookie on my first Murci battery change so I got 4 of these ready for next time. Just make sure you get the thread correct. Nice video you posted too, of course they are useful in removing the wheel as well...but I am sure that's understood.
  2. Here is where I jacked and supported mine. I rose the front of the car before jacking, because with the front being so low I wasn't sure if it would hit or not. I would also suggest the long stud guides to go into at least a couple of the wheel bolt holes before removing the wheel, otherwise you may scratch the inner wheel (especially true with CCB, I have approx 1/4 inch clearance on mine). The long studs help because of the weight too. As shown in the photo my first change was without the long studs using a board to support the wheel. Plus if you like a trickle charger port in the wheel well area you could do that too. A few more tips shown in my folder too, scroll to the end: MURRRRCI! | Flickr
  3. I think my 3M clear PPF has been on my 2008 Murci since new. It actually looks almost perfect and whenever it starts to have a slight dull appearance, then a light rub with 3M cleaner/wax brings it right back to new. However I have heard that the longer you keep PPF on a car, then the greater chance of paint issues when removing it to put on new PPF. Since I figure mine has been on about 10+ years I am wondering if any of you have experienced issues when having PPF removed if the PPF has been on your car for a while. Im debating whether to just leave it alone or not. I would hate to see paint come off with it and then have to repaint the car, which I figure pearl paint is never as nice as factory. I hear Ferraris have terrible issues with paint coming of with PPF removal especially on the bumpers, but not sure of the Murci.
  4. That's right, there was no residue after using it. It did tend to have a bit more shine than the bug & tar remover but I'm thinking that may go away over time. I didn't try it on my actual buttons yet, but will eventually try it on the outside of my R shown above since that needs some work. Poster rushdriven seems to have done good with that Krud Cutter stuff too, and also seemed to leave a little shine on the button.
  5. Well back to the sticky buttons. My wife was complaining of this sticky stuff on her umbrella handle and after looking and feeling it, it seemed identical to the typical sticky button crap (coating going bad I suspect). I tried a test on her umbrella handle with the products shown and by far the Zaino Leather In A Bottle worked wonders. The Bug & Tar remover was a second best so I tried a larger side comparison with the Zaino and Bug/Tar remover. Then I tried the Zaino on my MBZ SL600 buttons and it worked it great. Its funny why it works because its just a leather conditioner but it seems to mix & blend with the sticky stuff without too much rubbing and not get gummy like the other products shown. Next to try on my Lambo buttons when I get the nerve to try the Zaino on them. But to sum up, I was real pleased how this Zaino stuff worked on the umbrella handle and MBZ buttons with no harm.
  6. Starting to look at the Aventador as a purchase option, coupe or roadster. Can anyone outline the differences in the early models vs later models (well except for price difference of course, haha). Wish I put a lot more down on TSLA to help, but hindsight is always easy. Thanks.
  7. You are right, that black piece of trim is not supposed to be gloss. I looked at a photo before taking the car in (attached) and it is more of a satin appearance rather than gloss. Before using some restorer on it maybe I will try a bit of wax & see what happens. I think whatever they used to wash the car tends to strip it since the surface wasn't slick when I got it back.
  8. Anyone know how to treat this dark trim, for instance if it should be polished and or waxed? Every time I take my car in for service the preference is to wash the car and this time this black trim came back kind of dull gray and kind of spotty. I forgot exactly what it looked like before, but I think it was darker and definitely not spotty. Hate to be fussy but I just don't want to be throwing something on there that I shouldn't because I know some trim on cars is meant to be flat or satin. Thanks.
  9. Did anyone get in on Smith & Wesson stock near end of May just as BLM riots, looting & mayhem started? I shoulda seen that one coming, but stuck with my TSLA instead. Maybe it still has legs? Poor anti-gun activists must all be on valium & antidepressants by now.
  10. I have the occasional locking issue when I go to unarm the car it likes to unlock and then immediately lock; however never had the issue when in the car and exiting. As others mentioned here probably the actuator on one side or the other sticking. If you listen by the door when you lock and unlock with your key fob you may be able to hear which side is causing the issue to make all doors stick. Once a door jam adjustment fixed mine for a while, but now I suspect the actuator. For safety maybe leave your window down when turning it off so you could reach to the outside and use your key if needed on the door lock then turn the car on and lower the windows. Or just open the doors before shutting it down. Its odd you get stuck inside. When I use the handle inside the car it always opens for me.
  11. Looking around to replace my finicky Maserati Biturbo as a daily work driver I ran into the MBZ SL65 and SL600 as nice bang for the buck cars, convertible is a benefit in So Cal and quick as heck too. Kind of Plain Jane but I found you can spice them up a bit with nice wheels and lowering kit, and even get 700+ HP with a simple RENNtech or other chip upgrade.
  12. Yeah ditto to all above. I suffered for a couple years before I eventually got stuck with no staring at all (and if you can't start it and need to raise the front for any reason such as pushing out of an uneven driveway for tow or getting it on a tow truck, it will not raise to save your front lip). With the guys here they helped guide me through the process of putting a remote starter on the starter to send all the juice right to the starter and I was able to start it that way to get it to the shop for a new starter. You can read the link below about my issue if you want. But before all that also a tech told me to check if the dome light comes on right after disarming with the fob and opening the door, because if it doesn't come on sometimes the car alarm thinks the car was not entered properly and so the ignition alarm is still set. Good luck with it, maybe you just need a rebuild/cleaning and new solenoid but with me I learned the dealerships don't rebuild and just put in new parts. Ok with me, hopefully I'm good for another 10 years. https://www.lambopower.com/forum/index.php?/topic/83070-starter-problem/
  13. Funny for me anyway the light isn't appearing anymore. Good idea though to have the sensors looked at when I do my next brake fluid change, I didn't know the wheels come off for that.
  14. Hey there, I just noticed this posting. Nice looking car! I have a group 4 and others. If you do the group 4 flares make sure you get em done right in steel & butt welded and built around the diameter of the wheels/tires you plan to use. I've seem some done improperly and it kinda ruins the look of the car. https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/72157639222739254
  15. Thanks for the info. Outside seems pretty much like all SUVs, but inside mamamia that really looks nice. Maybe its just me but I don't get the purpose of SUVs anyway. There really isn't that much more room than a 4 seater car with trunk, and we all know they ain't going off road with these things. Maybe the purpose of an SUV is so you can see over all the other SUV on the road?
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